The old reliable four-star French restaurants, steak houses, delis, and
diners are of course still doing what they've been doing best for years (and in some cases, decades), but there's plenty new afoot. For one thing, the bistro-trattoria mania that broke out a few years ago is going strong:

The French are downtown, the Italians on the Upper East Side. The mix of
small ethnic eating spots reflects shifting immigration patterns, and the newest national cuisines to  make their mark are Austrian, Afghan, Brazilian, Thai, Turkish, and Jamaican. Chinatown, not to  be undone, is extending its borders, and noodle shops, complete with hanging ducks, heaping bowls of fried rice, and low prices, are sprouting up everywhere. And if you can roll it, fill it or stuff it, it probably has a restaurant-identity. 


Le Cirque 2000.The most anticipated restaurant of the decade, filled with celebrities, the rich, the powerful,  the would-like-to-bes---and some surprisingly good food. ---

Ben Benson's. A first-rate steak house, this is the place in Midtown for chops and prime rib, Maryland crab cakes, and oversize cocktails. --



Jean-Georges.The name, refers to celebrity-chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten of JoJo and Vong. The food is ethereal, the setting minimalist, the prices as dazzling as the food, but lunch offers value. .

Windows on the World. "The Greatest Bar on Earth," the intimate 60-seat "Cellar in the Sky," and the dramatic 240-seat main dining room are grand enough, but don't forget those million-dollar views. --

American Place. Executive chef Larry Forgione celebrates new American cooking in this stylish dining spot with kindly service; it just may be the country's finest regional American restaurant. 



"21" Club. The world's most celebrated saloon, with red-checked tablecloths and a ceiling hung with toys, now has food to celebrate as well, thanks to executive chef Erik Blauberg. --

Petrossian. This Art Deco caviar bar and restaurant is like no other New York dining spot. Gorge on gobs of fresh caviar or an outstanding prix-fixe dinner (one of the world's great bargains in luxury dining); the supplement for 30 grams of sevruga is relatively small.182 W. 58th St.Reservations essential


Barbetta. An island of civility in two distinguished, antiques-furnished town houses with an enchanting garden, verdant with century-old trees. The wine list, has many bottles dating from 1880. 


The Park The spectacular setting includes Baccarat chandeliers, and plush green velvet banquettes.The cuisine rivals the best in Manhattan.--

Follonico. At this Chelsea charmer, unusual pastas change with the seasons. 


Diwan Grill Here is the ideal place to bring your vegetarian friends for the "thail," a complete dinner of small vegetable curries, condiments, breads and desserts, served on the traditional round tray. 


Boca Chica. Come to this East Village hot spot for a (spicy) sampling of Latin America. 

Joe's Shanghai. Chefs study years to perfect the secret of the house specialty: dumplings filled with boiling broth and pork or crab. 




Turkish Kitchen. Manhattan's best Turkish restaurant has a striking, brightly colored multilevel dining room where you can sample delicate, authentic cuisine. 

Uncle Nick's. At this inexpensive taberna, owners, Tony and Mike Vanatakis, prepare each fish selection with simplicity and care. Be sure to try as many of the excellent appetizers as your tummy can handle.747 9th Ave., between 50th and 51st Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/245--7992. <CRCARDS>MC, V.








Dining out is one of New York's greatest pleasures. Because of the city's prominence as an international financial and cultural center, you can easily sample a multitude of foreign cuisines in the span of a week as well as regional dishes from around the United States. Manhattan has a restaurant to match any taste or pocketbook---from extravagant caviar and sushi bars to trendsetting TriBeCa haunts to affordable bistros, trattorias, coffee shops, and delis. If you're looking for innovative cuisine, you'll discover it prepared by some of the best chefs anywhere, and you can find places that serve traditional meals as well.


By J. Walman

THAT INTERNATIONAL APPENDAGE to the United States known as the Big Apple supports more good restaurants, and more kinds of them, than any other city in the world. And while it's possible to spend big bucks and eat badly, it's equally possible to dine like a king for a pittance. Food is one of the city's joys. Its restaurant mix also has an idiosyncratic charm. Hotel dining rooms---which have the resources to provide the professional service staff, fine china, comprehensive wine cellar, and top-flight kitchen required for serious dining---are increasingly common, with a life and often an entrance of their own. New York bistros and trattorias are as excellent as they are inexpensive and abundant, and the city is dotted with outstanding steak houses (meat has apparently made a comeback). Star chefs such as Larry Forgione, Daniel Boulud, David Burke, and Gray Kunz have given the city a coterie of innovative kitchens whose graduates have assured that even neighborhood eateries serve more than usually interesting fare.

French, Italian, and international restaurants improve each year and frequently compare favorably to their counterparts abroad. Seafood dining spots are improving---indeed, there are even a few outstanding ones, and New York is finally beginning to utilize its waterfront. Despite the prevalence of small Indian restaurants, their menus and spicing usually tend to be similar. Spanish cooking has finally taken flight, but as for Brazilian fare, an authentic feijoada (the stew of black beans with smoked meats) is hard to find.

New York's best breakfasts are not limited to so-called tablecloth restaurants. Dozens of Greek-owned coffee shops pride themselves on perfectly scrambled eggs, savory hash browns, and that New York institution, the toasted bagel. Chinatown's tea houses go nonstop from 8 [am] till 5 [pm], and "Little Korea," a string of amazingly inexpensive possibilities centered on West 32nd Street, between 5th and 7th avenues, is open around the clock. The coffeehouse explosion offers a civilized respite from Manhattan frenzy: Most offer restorative snacks in addition to a long list of java drinks (with or without caffeine), And now that coffee houses have gone into their next incarnation and joined forces in cyberspace spawning such esoteric hybrids as The Sandwich, The Internet Cafe and the  Cafe, all of which compete for the affections of computer and caffeine junkies with web-by-the-hour, a double espresso and chat, e-mail and amour---what's next: The bounty of breweries, wine/champagne/cigar bars and club lounges caters to appetites of all dimensions. (Some bars will even allow you to "order in" from neighboring take-out emporiums---so inquire).

Such small ethnic eating spots are legion in New York, their mix constantly changing with shifting immigration patterns; countries like Afghanistan, Thailand, Turkey, Senegal, and Jamaica are currently adding culinary breadth to the dining scene. There are more Chinese options than ever, and you are no longer obliged to endure rude service and dingy surroundings: Brightening today's Chinatowns (which thrive in Brooklyn and Queens as well as Manhattan) are noisy, gaudy eating emporiums in the Hong Kong style, and Asian-inspired fare is available in modish spots, from Aja to Zoe (Lespinasse, one of Manhattan's best haute kitchens, has made a trademark of it). Szechuan may be out, but Cantonese home cooking, with its fresh ingredients and simple cooking, is in. The Chinese tea lunch known as dim (touch) sum (heart, thus "to touch one's heart")---consisting of various dumplings, small cooked dishes, rice, noodles, puffs, balls, claws, you name it---holds strong. (At a dim sum lunch or brunch, point to what you want as trolleys bearing these delicacies wheel past your table.) The next wave? Caribbean cuisine is currently popular. Malaysian, Burmese, Vietnamese, Korean, Spanish, Middle Eastern, and African cuisines may gain a stronghold, not to mention African-American cooking and some of the little-known regional foods of Italy and other European nations.


There's still no visible end to Bistro/Trattoria mania. It is increasing helpful to speak Italian on the upper east side and French as one moves further downtown. Trendy grazing spots with beautiful youngsters (and oldsters pretending to be young) are thriving. One blends into the trendy scene easily by wearing black and kissing anyone who offers a spare cheek. Kosher is apparently gaining in fashion as the appellation precedes (and follows) such diverse cuisines as Japanese, Persian and Indian. A new trend in Latin American cuisine, Brazilian in this case, is playing catchup. Marvelous all-you-can eat barbecues called churrascarias are cropping up like bananas in Manhattan (Rodizio), Queens (Green Field) and New Jersey and Greek (especially examples of the contemporary and lightened-up variety) is in, with more restaurants of that genre opening in Manhattan than the more traditional location of Astoria. Sport's bars (All Star Cafe), theme restaurants (Sullivan's; Jekyll and Hyde) and other non-food-oriented restaurants seem imminent. The infamous 19.98 lunch keeps growing (albeit by pennies). We won't be surprised to see the 21.99 tea lunch, before it runs out of steam. Caveat Emptor. Some of the restaurants offering it are greedy (and unfriendly), while others make it an outstanding value. As Manhattan regains its stature as a late-night city, you can expect to see more promotions of this nature. 

Bottom line? Take a chance. Not every venture will be a success. But the whole experience will be rewarding. That's a promise.



In most great restaurant towns, there is generally one best restaurant; New York generously offers a variety of candidates. Times being what they are, top restaurants have short lives, chefs play musical kitchens, and today's star is often tomorrow's laggard. As in France, it's prudent to seek out restaurants on their way up and to approach celebrities with caution. Temper your visits to famous restaurants with informed selections from among lesser-knowns. Can a famous restaurant produce a really spectacular dinner? Probably. Will an unknown diner receive a great meal on the first visit to a fashionable restaurant? Probably not. Even in these recessionary times, the snob snub is not dead.


We firmly believe that everybody should be treated like somebody, and our recommendations take into account the reception as well as the food, decor, service, and wines. When there are several restaurants within a genre, we choose the most interesting. Some famous restaurants, elsewhere held in high regard, have not captured our accolades; others are omitted because they treat guests shabbily or are poor value. To familiarize you with the kitchen's style, we also mention dishes we have sampled. Menus change often (sometimes daily); signature dishes are becoming a thing of the past. It's the kitchen's style that counts, so look for similar preparations or ingredients.


New York won't disappoint on this score. Generally, the most expensive wines have the smallest markup, the mid-price spectrum offers the best values, and the least-expensive offerings are poor values. Half bottles are hard to find. Increasingly common instead is wine by the glass; younger restaurants as well as a number of old-timers offer serious vintages at sensible prices this way. If the wine list is large, have an aperitif and take your time in ordering. Remember: You're the buyer. Note that many restaurants allow you to bring your own bottle, charging a service fee ranging from 5 to about 25.


Rules are simple. Never tip the mai[cx]tre d' unless you're out to impress your companion. In most restaurants, tip the waiter at least 15% to 20%. (To figure the amount quickly, just double the tax noted on the check---it's 8[1//4]% of your bill---and round up or slightly down.)
 Tip at least 1 per coat checked.



New York gets a bum rap. Of course, you can order caviar and champagne or Bordeaux of great years; you will pay accordingly. But you will also do that in Nashville and Los Angeles. Our point is that each price stratum has its own equilibrium. Translation: 20 is only inexpensive if you get 20 worth of value, and 100 may be a bargain. Visitors from abroad will find New York is the world's least expensive international center in terms of food.

If you're watching your budget, always ask the price of the specials. Rather than being sensibly attached to the menu, European-style, specials are often recited by the waiter with no mention of cost. Ask.

Finally, always go over your bill. Mistakes do occur (and not always in the restaurant's favor).


Use common sense. Dress up for grand restaurants, and wear neat but casual clothes for casual spots. Midtown is more conservative than residential neighborhoods, SoHo and TriBeCa trendier than the Upper East and Upper West sides. Shorts are appropriate only in summer and in the most casual spots. When in doubt, call ahead.


Make a reservation. If you change your mind, cancel---it's only courteous. Tables can be hard to come by between 7 and 9; if a restaurant tells you that it can seat you only before 6 or after 10, you may decide that it doesn't need you. Or you may be persuaded that eating early or late is okay. Eating after a play or concert is quite common in New York, and there's no shortage of options. And don't be afraid to speak up if you prefer to sit in a certain area or if you want a special table. Important: Always double check that the service information hasn't changed. Charge cards, hours of operation, chefs and even location and prices are ephemeral in todays' computer age--a few intelligent questions can solve all but the most unexpected problem.  


New York is no longer smoker-friendly. Only restaurants with fewer than 35 seats legally allow smoking. Establishments may allow you to smoke at the bar or at a table outdoors, if such seating is available. A recent phenomenon, however, is the rise of the cigar bar. Many restaurants have added areas for smoking cigars, and some establishments are devoted solely to this pastime. Cigar bars often stock a superb selection of single-malt scotches, cognacs, wines, and champagnes along with elegant snacking (sandwiches, salads, tapas, and caviar).

Lower ManhattanNew York's Financial district is more important for its historical offerings than gastronomic, but you can eat well by being selective. And some of Manhattan's most theatrical offerings (Windows On The World) are awaiting your reservation
</{2}><{3}><HEAD>American
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>20--35</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Fraunces Tavern. Opened as a tavern in 1762 by Samuel Fraunces, George Washington's steward, this Georgian brick landmark dates back to 1719; George Washington delivered his farewell address here when the British evacuated New York. Today the place has a clubby bar and faithful Colonial decor; it's a nice spot for cocktails (they're rather good) and for basic eggs-bacon-and-oatmeal breakfasts. Any other time, stick to steaks or, Wednesday, pot roast. 54 Pearl St., at Broad St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/269--0144. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed weekends</CLOSED>.


<MAP>[1fp]1-page map: Downtown Manhattan Dining[1fp]</MAP>
</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Chinese
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2-3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>27--42</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Au Mandarin. One of the best bets in Manhattan for haute Chinese, this World Financial Center restaurant has a courtyard-like setting, an exotic fish tank, and classy furnishings. The dining experience combines a polished atmosphere with careful service. You might start with vegetarian dumplings or Shanghai buns, then move on to Shanghai prawns, followed by Peking duck, tangerine beef, and delicate rice noodles with julienne vegetables. 200--250 Vesey St. (World Financial Center)</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/385--0313. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Contemporary
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>42--61</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Hudson River Club. This distinguished restaurant has spacious wood-paneled rooms with paisley-print banquettes, spectacular views of the Hudson River and the Statue of Liberty, and a spirited bar with piano music. The kitchen celebrates Hudson River valley produce in such hallmark dishes as mint cured apple-smoked salmon Napoleon and veal shank with horseradish mashed potatoes. Desserts---like the signature tower of chocolate (combining brownie, mousse, and meringue)---are edible sculptures, while the New York State cheese plate with walnut bread and nut muffins serves as a perfect foil to the magnificent wines from the regional American wine list. 4 World Financial Center</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/786--1500. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>42-63</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Windows on the World. This monumental restaurant on the World Trade Center's 107th floor reopened in 1996 after a 25 million makeover. When you step off the elevator, you encounter an impressive 38-ft-wide curtain of beads as you're welcomed by pages dressed in rainbow colors. The complex now includes The Greatest Bar on Earth (actually three bars) with a full, multiethnic menu, and dancing after 10 [pm]; the adjacent Skybox, a cigar-smoking oasis; and the intimate, 60-seat Cellar in the Sky,  where a fixed price dinner is served, accompanied by an optional selection of appropriate wines. The 240-seat main dining room has artwork by Milton Glaser, apricot-fabric banquettes, origami fabric-wrapped ceilings, and panoramic windows with stunning Manhattan views; meals are served on whimsical china with designs of stars, moons, and clouds. Don't miss executive chef, Michael Lomonaco's, delightful ring of roasted vegetable salad with spiced walnuts and winesap apples in a "crust" of white cheddar cheese, North Carolina roasted quail with black truffle risotto and mushroom stew and decadently-delicious chocolate dome with brandied cherries.1 World Trade Center, 107th floor</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/524--7011; 212/938--0030 for Cellar in the Sky. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Seafood
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>29--35</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Gianni's. This is the most earnest restaurant near South Street Seaport, an area not noted for gastronomic excellence. Pastas, salads, and seafood work best. Or try an out-of-the-ordinary sandwich. There's an outdoor cafe[ac] during the summer. 15 Fulton St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/608--7300. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{2}><HEAD>SoHo and TriBeCaS
</{2}><{3}><HEAD>American Casual
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1-2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>14--33</DPRICE>

<TX2>


An acroym for "South Of Houston Street," local artists moved here, when Greenwich Village became too expensive. With the wonderful galleries and lofts, restaurants have the space to offer dramatic and spacious dining venues. Here is probably Manhattan's best dining district.

Lucky Strike. One of Manhattan's funkiest small restaurants, this unadorned SoHo boi[cx]te doesn't look like much. In the crowded back room, specials and available wines are written on mirrors on the walls. You can have a terrific steak and pommes fri[cx]tes (french fries) at a bargain price, good burgers, and great bread pudding; the homemade bread is also worth the trip. The crowd mobbing the bar is young and hip. 59 Grand St., between Wooster St. and W. Broadway</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/941--0479 or 212/941--0772. <RES>Reservations not accepted</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Contemporary
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>65--120</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Chanterelle. Soft peach walls, luxuriously spaced tables, towering ceilings, and glorious displays of flowers set the stage for what is arguably New York's finest new-American restaurant. The unassuming, flawless service complements chef David Waltuck's inventions, which are carefully prepared and beautifully presented. Although the signature seafood sausage, charred on the outside and succulent within, and the Japanese-style raw seafood are both always available, other dishes on the menu are changeable, dictated by the bounty of the seasons. Trust your exceptional sommelier to find value in the discriminating, beautifully chosen wine list. Lunch and dinner are prix fixe. 2 Harrison St., near Hudson St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/966--6960. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun.--Mon. No lunch</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3-4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>42.50--60</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Bouley Bakery
Celebrity chef, David Bouley, is back at the helm at his successful bakery-cum-restaurant with its vaulted ceiling, fresh flowers gracing each of the twelve tables and informally-elegant air. Typical of the Bouley experience, service and pacing of food can be maddeningly slow. But the results are often worth the wait. Sparkling clams and oysters require no particular care in preparation, but are a high point, due to Me. Bouley's commitment to utilize only the freshest local produce, and such unlikely combinations a sauteed skate with fennel and figs or thin rings of calamari with crabmeat are typical of the Bouley dictum. A hot chocolate souffl[ac]e is not too caloric to conclude, since the food is relatively light. The wine list, alas, isn't as interesting as the kitchen.120 W. Broadway,</ADDRESS><PHONE>212/964--2525<CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>42.50--50</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Tribeca Grill. This cavernous brick-walled restaurant, subtly lighted and anchored by the bar from the old Maxwell's Plum, displays art by the late Robert De Niro Sr., father of the actor, who opened it with various celebrity partners and now owns it with Montrachet's Drew Nieporent. The best dishes are the simple ones, such as crisp fried oysters with anchovy aioli and herb-crusted rack of lamb with oven-roasted vegetables; desserts are amicable (try banana tart with milk-chocolate ice cream), as is the staff. 375 Greenwich St., near Franklin St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/941--3900. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>39--52</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Zoe. Thalia and Stephen Loffredo's colorful, high-ceilinged SoHo eatery with terra-cotta columns and floor has an open kitchen that produces impressive food, such as grilled yellowfin tuna on wok-charred vegetables. Zoe also has an exceptionally well organized wine list and a fine group of carefully tended wines by the glass. This is one of Manhattan's better places to have weekend brunch. 90 Prince St., between Broadway and Mercer St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/966--6722. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2-3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>39--43.50</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Duane Park Cafe[ac]. This quiet TriBeCa find is owned by its Japanese chef, Seiji Maeda. It can spoil you with its comfortable seating, excellent service, serious but fairly priced wines, and international menu. Look for marinated duck and arugula salad as well as crispy skate with the Japanese-inspired ponzu sauce. The pleasing design incorporates dark columns, a salmon color scheme, maple-veneered walls, and an abundance of cherry wood. 157 Duane St., between W. Broadway and Hudson St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/732--5555. <CRCARDS>AE, D, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>30-34</DPRICE>

Match. This bilevel restaurant-lounge is hot enough to scorch the heels of a seasoned fire walker. Open beams and machine fixtures, blond-wood paneling, and old-world booths hugging the wall preserve the memory of the building's industrial past (Match is housed in the former home of New York's oldest electrical company). Check out the raw bar, which teems with fabulous presentations of fresh shellfish, sushi, sashimi, and caviar, or go for the dim-sum platter. <SUBSITE>There's also a Match Uptown</SB> (33 E. 60th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/906--9173).</SUBSITE> 160 Mercer St., between Houston and Prince Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/343--0020. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>19--34</DPRICE>

Odeon. Established in 1980, this was downtown's first "trendy" restaurant, and it's still one of the neighborhood's best. The art deco cafeteria setting includes plentiful neon, vinyl banquettes, and Formica tables, and the pleasant service, low prices, and well-chosen wine list are all pluses. But let's not neglect the food: crab and potato fritters with soy-daikon sauce, and grilled lamb and leek sandwich on country bread are equally tantalizing. 145 W. Broadway at Thomas St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/233--0507. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.


<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2-3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>34--50.00</DPRICE>

SavoylChef-owner, Peter Hoffman favors sun-cuisine at this intimate restaurant with a new second floor dining room that features a prix fixe menu, offering a special grilled-dish nightly. Hoffman's definition of sun-cuisine is eclectic (the Mediterranean, Latin America, Asia). His wine list is as interesting as the menu.70 Prince St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/219--8570. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE


</{3}><{3}><HEAD>French
<PBLOCK>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3-4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>58--62.00</DPRICE>

Montrachet. This TriBeCa trendsetter, owned by Tribeca Grill's Drew Nieporent, is unpretentious in its decor: pastel walls, plush mauve banquettes, and engaging works of art. There's a choice of two three-course menus as well as a five-course tasting affair. A satisfying dinner might include the signature truffle-crusted salmon in red-wine fume[ac] and the banana-chocolate gratin (a pudding-like dessert, quickly finished under the grill). There's an interesting selection of wines from diminutive regional vineyards. 239 W. Broadway, between Walker and White Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/219--2777. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Mon.--Thurs. or Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2-3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>39--44</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Balthazar.Owned by Keith McNally (Pravda & Odeon) and one of the most difficult reservations in town to pull off,  here is a  hot scene, sprinkled with top celebrities engaged in the art of table hopping. The big surprise is that the average diner is treated quite well. The Tuesday night special of "choucroute garni" is a delectable mix of several varieties of sausages, including veal and garlic, smoked meats, saurkraut and spices, all simmered in white Alsatian wine. The chicken saute with spatzle and vegetables is flavorful and generous. The wonderful bread, baked in their own baker, is country fresh. and some of the best in town. Prices by today's standards are not exorbitant and the wine list is fair. The vintage French ambiance is straight out of movie-set Paris. Apply the dessert calories to the bread, which can be taken home on-request.80  Spring St., Betw. B'Way & Lafayette St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/965-1414. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Mon.</CLOSED>

Capsouto Freres. You'd never guess this romantic spot with exposed brick walls, tall columns, and wooden floors was once a warehouse. With its top-notch service, classical music, and reasonable prices, this 1891 TriBeCa landmark is also a winner. Chef Charles Tutino prepares classics with a solid, contemporary touch---for instance, terrine Provenc[cd]ale and Peking duck in cassis-ginger sauce. Dessert souffle[ac]s around town pale against the light, delicious versions here. 451 Washington St., near Watts St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/966--4900. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Mon.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>19--28</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Caffe Lure. Owner Jean Claude Iacovelli earned his stripes at Bouley. The room is small, rough, and raffish with its tin ceiling, tables topped with brown paper and flacons of water, and walls festooned with vintage advertising signs and fishing lures---hence the name. The culinary emphasis here is on seafood; try baby lobster with spinach and port sauce or roast monkfish with black-olive pureed potatoes and mushrooms. You can also play it simple and enjoy some of the best brick-oven-fired pizza imaginable. 169 Sullivan St., between Houston and Bleecker Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/473--2642. <CRCARDS>No credit cards.


Felix. No, you haven't traveled 3,000 mi to Paris's Left Bank; this charming bistro is in SoHo, a taxi ride from midtown. Whether you dine inside or alfresco, the service is friendly and the contemporary bistro fare is attractively presented. Try the steak with thin, crunchy french fries. 340 W. Broadway, at Grand St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/431--0021. <CRCARDS>AE. <CLOSED>No lunch Mon.</CLOSED>



Le Jardin Bistro. Gerard and Pamela Maurice's welcoming house with a lovely garden and grape arbor really belongs in a small French village. There's no pretension---just hearty portions of French food. The small, charming interior has a tin ceiling, ceiling fans, an antique mirror, and lace cafe[ac] curtains. The fine steak tartare comes with light and grease-free pommes fri[cx]tes. You can't go wrong with any of the pleasant house wines or the homemade desserts. 25 Cleveland Pl., near Spring St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/343--9599. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Health
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>15--25</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Spring Street Natural Restaurant and Bar. The big open room has ceiling fans, overhead globe lights, wood floors, and a long comfortable bar; in warm weather, there are also tables outside. Two vegetarian dishes are standouts: corn-fried organic seitan (a sort of wheat gluten), in two dipping sauces, and a crispy tempeh. You can't go wrong with any of the healthy yet heavenly desserts. 62 Spring St., at Lafayette St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/966--0290. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}>
<{3}><HEAD>Japanese
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>59--65</DPRICE>

<TX2>
Nobu. A curved wall of river-worn black pebbles, a 12-seat onyx-faced sushi bar (perfect for single diners), bare-wood tables, birch trees, and a hand-painted beech floor create drama as well as conversation. Sake is the drink of choice, and the clientele is as interesting as the kitchen, which is ruled by celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa, of Los Angeles. It's difficult to decide which direction to go on his menu: rock-shrimp tempura; black cod with miso; new-style sashimi---all are tours de force. 105 Hudson St., off Franklin St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/219--0500 or 212/219--8095 for same-day reservations. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Latin
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>37--40</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Erizo Latino. The wood-beamed trellis and decorative iron chandeliers with flickering candles contribute to the romantic ambience of this pan-Latino restaurant. You might start with a classic mojito, the Cuban cocktail of rum, mint, sugar, and lime juice. Owner-chef Alex Garcia's menu includes erizo (sea urchins) served in their shell, with three piquant vinegar-based sauces, tamales (Cuban or Puerto Rican), and a standout all-seafood mixed grill, plus some kicky desserts such as quesillo de coco (caramelized coconut cream). 422 W. Broadway, near Prince St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/941--5811. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>15--19</DPRICE>

<TX2>
El Pollo. This trilevel SoHo restaurant has a soaring ceiling, Mission-style tables and chairs, and walls decorated with Peruvian carvings and oil paintings. The menu provides a good introduction to Peruvian cuisine. The specialty---whole chicken, marinated in garlic, wine, pepper, lemon, oregano, vinegar, and spices---is rotisserie roasted and a bargain. For an appetizer, try the traditional cold potatoes, prepared in a zesty cheese sauce. <SUBSITE>El Pollo has an unassuming uptown counterpart</SB> (1746 1st Ave., between 90th and 91st Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/996--7810).</SUBSITE> 482 Broome St., at Wooster St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/431--5666. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Malaysian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>
<DPRICE>19--30</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Penang SoHo. This is a Technicolor fantasy, with a dramatic waterfall, palm trees, tropical flowers, bar seats with backs made of hoe handles, and individual little huts for small groups. The menu includes relatively authentic culinary masterpieces, such as sarang burung, a ring of fried taro filled with scallops, squid, shrimp, and vegetables. For dessert have a pancake filled with ground peanuts and sweet corn and an iced Malaysian coffee. 109 Spring St., between Greene and Mercer Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/274--8883. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Mexican
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>26--37</DPRICE>

<TX2>
El Teddy's. The margaritas get high marks and the food is mostly wonderful, revealing both authentic Mexican subtleties and contemporary creativity, from the smoked chicken and goat-cheese quesadilla to the grilled rare yellowfin tuna. The roster of inventive desserts includes almond flan and flourless chocolate cake. This is a Mexican restaurant like no other, with its mirrors, tiles, glitter, and grotesque use of colors. 219 W. Broadway, between Franklin and White Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/941--7070. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Middle Eastern
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>37--52</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Layla. Mosaics made of pottery shards form exotic collages within this leviathan space. Owned by Drew Nieporent (of Tribeca Grill, Nobu, and Montrachet fame) and actor Robert De Niro, this campy takeoff on the Middle East comes complete with live belly dancers and lifelike mannequins of water-pipe smokers. The "chef's feast" consists of various hot and cold Middle Eastern appetizers, including stuffed baby calamari and delicious sardines, wrapped in phyllo to dip in black-olive oil. 211 W. Broadway, at Franklin St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/431--0700. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>35--45</DPRICE>
<TX2>

Casa La Femme. This enterprising restaurant changes its entire decor every six months. Currently the theme is Egyptian, with burgundy banquettes and tables under flowing white tents. In season, there's a sidewalk cafe[ac]. Standout dishes include meze, the Middle Eastern equivalent of mixed hors d'oeuvres, and Moroccan vegetarian tagine, which is a spicy stew. 150 Wooster St., between Houston and Prince Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/505--0005. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Philippine
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>30--40</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Cendrillon Asian Grill and Marimba Bar. Cendrillon means Cinderella in French, so the slipper-shape bar is apropos. The all-exposed redbrick dining room has beautiful wood tables with delicate inlay designs. Don't miss the spring rolls, Asian barbecues (duck, spareribs, chicken), black rice salad, and adobo---the national dish of the Philippines, prepared here with quail and rabbit in the traditional vinegar and garlic sauce. 45 Mercer St., between Broome and Grand Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/343--9012. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{2}><HEAD>Chinatown, Little Italy, and Lower East SideThe newest outpost for trendy spots at affordable prices, the ethnicity of Chinatown and Little Italy gives way to the hip, hot boites of the East Village and Nolita (North Of Little Italy), the newest enclave of trend-setters."  

</{2}><{3}><HEAD>Chinese
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>20--34</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Golden Unicorn. This Hong Kong--style restaurant has an outstanding 12-course banquet (which must be ordered three days in advance), a real bargain if shared by 10. Served in a small private room, it may include such dishes as roast suckling pig, scallops and seafood in a noodle nest, whole steamed fish, fried rice with raisins, lobster with ginger, and unusual desserts based on warm or chilled fruit or rice soups. If you're seeking something less elaborate, sit in the regular dining room and order a la carte. 18 E. Broadway, at Catherine St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/941--0911. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>31--34</DPRICE>

<TX2>
Pacifica. Holiday Inn houses this elegant Chinatown restaurant. Take the escalator to the second floor and pass through the tasteful lobby to a well-appointed room in shades of gold, salmon, and soft green. Ignore the pastas and order simple and classic dishes such as salt-baked triple delight, consisting of shrimp, scallops, and calamari, or steamed fish with ginger and scallions. 138 Lafayette St., between Canal and Howard Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/941--4168. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>15--30</DPRICE>

<TX2>

New York Noodletown. This unassuming place with a window full of hanging cooked ducks remains one of the best small Chinatown restaurants. Single diners may have to sit at communal round tables, and if you're not careful, you can spend more than the no-nonsense coffee-shop decor suggests. Soup and noodles are the things to order here, and you'll find none better elsewhere; treat yourself to delicious shrimp, Chinese greens, and soft egg noodles served in a remarkably cultivated seafood broth. 28[1//2] Bowery, at Bayard St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/349--0923. <RES>Reservations not accepted</RES>. <CRCARDS>No credit cards.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>19--29</DPRICE>

<TX2>

20 Mott. This three-story restaurant, an excellent choice for dim sum, is neat if nondescript, and the service rates a notch above average. To get food that's authentic, you must insist on it (look around and point), and when you do, you may be served fabulous steamed dumplings; deep-fried eel with orange peel and spicy XO sauce (a Hong Kong specialty that's rare here)---or different but equally novel dishes. 20 Mott St., between Bowery and Pell Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/964--0380. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>15--19</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Joe's Shanghai. At this modern, clean, and unadorned dining spot, you'll find a staff eager to please. The specialty here, known as "bun," is a delicious dumpling containing not only ground pork or crab but also piping-hot broth. Also recommended are the Shanghai fried flat noodles---long, winding doughy miracles served in an intense brown sauce---and stewed pork balls, big puffy blobs of meats embellished with steamed baby Chinese cabbage. 9 Pell St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/233--8888. <CRCARDS>No credit cards.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>10--17</DPRICE>

<TX2>
Sweet'n'Tart Cafe. You step down into what looks like the inside of a pink sea shell, furnished with Formica tables and a counter to the right. The menu has some 20 curative soups: little white bowls composed of such exotica as quail eggs, almonds and Asian pears, snow fungi, and spooky-sounding herbs, which actually taste wonderful. This is the place to sample congee, that porridge-like concoction eaten for breakfast in Hong Kong. The friendly waiters may advise you to accompany the congee with a sugarless cruller; follow their advice, because the crullers are terrific. Less adventurous souls can enjoy dim sum or fresh fruit shakes. 76 Mott St., at Canal St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/334--8088. <CRCARDS>No credit cards.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Italian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>35--45</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Il Cortile. The setting resembles an Italian palazzo with statues, a Roman brick wall, sprays of fresh flowers, plants, trees, and a skylit courtyard. Rack of veal De Georgio, made with sausage, herbs, and prosciutto sauce, is the house specialty. 125 Mulberry St., between Canal and Hester Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/226--6060. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

S.P.Q.R. This inviting spot with spacious tables, brickwork, and lots of fresh flowers is one of the few earnest restaurants in Little Italy, an area noted more for fun than food. In addition to the good pasta, there's a terrific veal chop and a phenomenal cheesecake. 133 Mulberry St., between Hester and Grand Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/925--3120. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1-2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>19--34</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Ballato's. This old-timer has been attractively revamped with a Kostabi painting, red-oak floors, and an enclosed garden. The menu has inexpensive pastas and good daily specials; if you've never sampled tripe, Ballato's version, prepared in a superb marinara sauce, is worth investigating. 55 E. Houston St., between Mott and Mulberry Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/274--8881. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed weekends. No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Pizza
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>19--30</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Da Nico. This Little Italy restaurant deserves praise for its outstanding rotisserie grills and thin-crusted, charred, coal-oven pizza. The roast chicken is delicious, the roast suckling pig soul-stirring. You can dine up front by the marble bar or in a comfortable back room with a skylight. 164 Mulberry St., between Grand and Broome Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/343--1212. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{2}><HEAD>East Village

</{2}><{3}><HEAD>American
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[[2-3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>20--40</DPRICE>

<TX2>

First. Come here for inner-city flavor, late-night dining, and intriguing food. The decor features an open kitchen, hammered-metal tables against silk horseshoe-shape banquettes, and a bar graced with a lovely display of photographs by local photographers. The wine list is carefully chosen (several fine vintages are available by the glass). On Sunday, there's a fun brunch and a one-of-a-kind roast suckling pig dinner. 87 1st Ave., between 5th and 6th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/674--3823. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>13--20</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Acme Bar and Grill. At this friendly eatery, the vintage-shack decor is incredibly kitschy, including shelves filled with innumerable bottles of hot sauce. The sound system blasts Chicago blues and jazz. The Cajun-influenced menu embraces chicken, ribs, crab cakes, catfish, and shrimp---steamed in Old Bay spice, barbecued, or blackened. The coleslaw (coarsely cut and a mix of different colored cabbages, onions, and mayo) is worth a detour. 9 Great Jones St., between Broadway and Lafayette St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/420--1934. <CRCARDS>DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Asian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>29--34</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Indochine. Palm leafs painted on cream-colored walls, black-and-white tile floors, mirrors, leather banquettes, and live palm trees team up with some of the most fascinating food this side of Saigon. Select from among such savory soups as pho (sliced fillet of beef, rice noodles, bean sprouts) and noum protchok namya (fish, scallops, shrimp, coconut milk, rice vermicelli). The banh cuon (steamed Vietnamese ravioli filled with chicken, shiitake, bean sprouts) is celestial. 430 Lafayette St., between 4th St. and Astor Pl.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/505--5111. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Contemporary
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>29--32</DPRICE>

<TX2>
Global 33. It looks like an airport lounge furnished by Bloomingdale's, with vinyl, pewter, Lucite, and cast-concrete decor. In this hip space, would-be jet-setters can enjoy generous retro cocktails and tapas-size goodies. Even the blasting music becomes tolerable when you try the luscious herbed rack of lamb with mashed potatoes, followed by chocolate espresso torte. 93 2nd Ave., between 5th and 6th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/477--8427. <CRCARDS>AE. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Deli
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>14--30</DPRICE>

<TX2>
Second Avenue Deli. The menu here has a bevy of Eastern European Jewish classics, including chicken in the pot, matzo-ball soup, chopped liver, Romanian tenderloin, and cholent (a central European Jewish dish of meat, bean, and grain)---they're alive and well and accompanied by humor-filled New York Jewish service from days of yore, as well as interesting memorabilia from the Yiddish theater. 156 2nd Ave., at 10th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/677--0606. <CRCARDS>AE.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Eastern European
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>10--17</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Teresa's. Homesick Poles mix with cost-conscious students at this Polish luncheonette. Comfort your tummy with bigos, the Polish national stew---sauerkraut layered with fresh and smoked meats and sausage---and the hearty, stick-to-the-ribs dumplings known as pierogi, filled with meat, fish, cheese, or mushrooms, boiled or fried and served with sour cream. 103 1st Ave., between 6th and 7th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/228--0604. <CRCARDS>No credit cards.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Greek
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>
<DPRICE>19--30</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Agrotikon. Designed by artist Anna Lascari, this immaculate white, blue, and green dining room with two fireplaces has been whimsically decorated with decals of fruit and tiny blue fish. Owner and executive chef Kostis Tsingas oversees the most inventive Greek restaurant in town. Don't miss the meatballs of baby calamari. Also worth your while is the whole red snapper, accompanied by delightfully crunchy dandelion greens. 322 E. 14th St., between 1st and 2nd Aves.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/473--2602. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Mon.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Italian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>15--19</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Lanza Restaurant. Ceiling fans, paintings of Italian scenes, and an inviting garden create the feel of an authentic trattoria. The good classic food offers one of Manhattan's greatest restaurant bargains, which explains the crowds of hungry New Yorkers. 168 1st Ave., between 10th and 11th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/674--7014. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Japanese
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>15--19</DPRICE>

<TX2>


Takahachi. One of the best small Japanese restaurants in Manhattan, it's neat and amazingly inexpensive, offering such unusual dishes as fried shiitake filled with ground salmon and seared tuna with black pepper and mustard sauce. There's also a good early-bird special, served until 7 [pm]. 85 Ave. A, between 5th and 6th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/505--6524. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Latin
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>12--19</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Boca Chica. At this raffish East Villager start with a potent caipirinha (Brazilian rum, lime juice, and sugar). Assertively seasoned food from several Latin American nations at giveaway prices is Boca Chica's forte. Check out the plantains, served as croquettes or filled with spicy meat; soupy Puerto Rican chicken-rice stew; or Cuban sandwiches blending roast pork, ham, and pickles. Lively music and dancing have their way on weekends, and watch your step---there's often an equally lively boa constrictor by the bar. 13 1st Ave., near 1st St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/473--0108. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Mon.--Sat.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Philippine
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>10--18</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Manila Garden. Authentic Philippine cuisine, combining Asian and Spanish flavors, may be savored at this lovely spot, with a white grand piano, a seasonal garden, and fresh orchids on each table. Tuesdays, you can take advantage of the bargain buffet at lunch and dinner. Other times, enjoy wonderful lechon (roasted pig), lumpia Shanghai (a delicious pork egg roll), and chicken adobo. For dessert, order the flan, which is richer than its Spanish counterpart, and halo halo (ice cream topped with fruit). 325 E. 14th St., between 1st and 2nd Aves.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/777--6314. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Seafood
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>19--31</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Pisces. This striking restaurant, where tables near the open windows seem to spill out into Alphabet City, as this neighborhood of lettered avenues is called, has fallen victim to the quick-change-chef syndrome. But a sophisticated menu combined with reasonable prices still make it worthwhile. Brunch is served on weekends. 95 Ave. A, at 6th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/260--6660. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekdays</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Spanish
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>9--17</DPRICE>

<TX2>
Xunta. The dining room has wine barrels for tables, high stools (watch your balance), fish nets covering the ceiling, and a brick bar with overhanging dried peppers. Of the 32 tapas, don't miss the tortilla espanola con cebola (classic potato omelet with onions)---it is superb. Other recommended dishes include grilled shrimp, tuna or codfish empanadas, and saute[ac]ed cigalas (a typical shellfish in white wine and cherry-tomato sauce). 174 1st Ave., between 10th and 11th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/614--0620. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Swiss
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>17--19</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Roettelle A. G. If you hanker for hearty European cooking, you'll love this charming East Village town house, where you can sit in a hidden nook in one of the several dining rooms, in the cozy bar, or under an arbor in the garden sipping Swiss wine and eating viande de Grisons (Swiss dried beef) or raclette (mild melted cheese served with boiled potatoes and tiny pickles). Sauerbraten with spaetzle and red cabbage is delicious, and it's rare to taste apple strudel and linzer torte this good. Prices are low, and there's also a bargain two-course fixed-price dinner. 126 E. 7th St., between 1st Ave. and Ave. A</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/674--4140. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun.</CLOSED>


</{3}><{2}><HEAD>Greenwich Village"Arguably Manhattan's most charming district, despite a trend toward commercialism, Village restaurants have been more noted for atmosphere than cuisine. Recent gastrnomification has spawned "foodie-frequented" areas such as Cornelia Street with quaint bistros, oyster bars North African dives and just about everything in between and NoHo (north of Houston). Just stroll around and take pot luck."</{2}>
<HEAD>American
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1-2]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>19--32.50</DPRICE>

Drovers Tap Room This appealing respite from trendy, expensive downtown restaurants has a red tin ceiling, beige walls hung with family snapshots of chef-owner David Page's family, and honest, Midwestern-style food. The bar pours generous and inventive house-cocktails and the wine list is not only affordable---it's not run-of-the-mill, with some interesting house bottlings from New York State. Of starters, the winner  is a plate of farmstead cheeses, spiced olives and house-made pepperoni. Entrees worth considering, include a homey country-style pork ribs with smoked-onion bourbon barbecue sauce, baked beans and coal slaw and daily specials such as a roast Long island duckling with slow cooked cabbage. Check out the macaroni and cheese or rosemary dumpling sides and don't leave without sampling the homemade desserts, especially the drop-dead butterscotch pudding.9 Jones Street</ADDRESS><PHONE>212/627--1233<CRCARDS>AE,MC,V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1-2]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>16.50--28.50</DPRICE>


The Grange HallThis restaurant empasizing American-farm cuisine, is located in a former speakeasy on one of Greenwich Village's most charming tree-lined streets. The affordable menu offers a variety of small pates (potato pancakes with chive-sour cream), which may be artfully combined to form a satisfying meal, or act as appetizers. The well prepared entrees (center cut cranberry-glazed pork chops) may be ordered by themselves (simple) or with a choice of soup or field salad for a couple of bucks more. The excellent desserts (iced devil's food cake) stand on their own merits. 50 Commerce St. (at Barrow)</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/924-5246<RES>Reservations essential.</RES><CRCARDS>AE

<PRICECATEGORY>[2-3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>29--36</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Clementine.This innovative-American restaurant has co-owner/executive-chef John Schenk (Monkey Bar) at the helm, has done the near-impossible---provided magnificent food (without deja vu cliches),  pleasant service and affordable prices in a trendy-hot-successful restaurant.  While we could live without the mob-scene bar, we can't carp, when drinks are generous, beautifully executed and priced-for-refills. And  how could the kitchen charge less  for  such melt in your mouth entrees as braised lamb shank with a delicious cauliflower gratin,  expertly grilled lamb chops with terrific mustard scalloped potatoes and the all-out best appetizer, fried green tomato with spare rib salad. Pastry chef, Heather Ho's, lemon caramel ice box cake has already become a household word around town. The wine list is well done with plenty selections under 25  and the main dining room with its honey-gold walls and pool with bubbling water and rock garden provides an agreeable setting.  One Fifthe Ave. , at 8th St..</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/539-0877. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE


<PRICECATEGORY>[2]

<DPRICE>29--33</DPRICE>

<TX2>
HomeIn this sliver of a storefront restaurant, David Page cooks with rare authority and honesty, from the superb blue cheese fondue, carmelized shallots and rosemary toast to a moist roast chicken and spiced onion rings served with homemade ketchup. Nor will you soon forget the creamy chocolate pudding and homemade cookies. Home also offers an interesting wine list.and brunch on weekends.  20 Cornelia St., between Bleecker and W. 4th,</ADDRESS> <PHONE> 212/243--9579  <CRCARDS>AE. <CLOSED>Closed Mon</CLOSED>.

Cornelia Street Cafe. For real left bank atmosphere, this cunning restaurant (owned by four artists)  with its exposed bricks, working fireplace and antique farm instruments hanging on the wall can't be beat. Start with a light-as-a-feather quiche, studded with roasted fennel and ham and enriched with cheddar cheese, accomapnied by excellent mesclun-salad (a meal in itself). Entrees---a garlic and rosemary roasted chicken, delivered crisp with terrific mashed potatoes and broccoli, or a cornmeal-coated pan fried catfish special in a roasted
tomato-caper sauce with lovely grilled green and yellow squash and fluffy brown-rice, are satisfying and generous. Desserts, a tarte Tatin (the upsidedown French apple-cake), are expert. There's a jazz club downstairs.29 Cornelia St.,<PHONE>212/989--9319. <CRCARDS>AM, MC.</ADDRESS></PRICECATEGORY>

<{3}><HEAD>Asian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>30--34</DPRICE>

<TX2>


Mirezi. This cutting-edge Pan-Asian bistro and grill (whose name means "future land" in Korean) has two levels; the stark and simple downstairs area includes a few tables and a sake/Asian-tapas-bar. The walls in the striking, dimly lit main dining room are rimmed with banquettes and decorated with miniature TV screens. You'll want to try bibimbap, a Korean dish served in a clay pot brimming with rice, beef, and Asian vegetables. Warm apple sesame tart with green coconut ice cream makes a satisfying dessert. 59 5th Ave., between 12th and 13th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/242--9710. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Mon.--Sat.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Barbecue
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>10--19</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Brothers Bar-B-Q. This huge, barnlike space on two levels has a lounge area decorated in the offbeat style of the American South, with hair dryers, tacky period-plastic furniture circa 1949, Texaco, Esso, and Shell oil signs, and even a garage door. Monday nights, it's all-you-can-eat; sample puffy hush puppies with hot sauce, smoked sausage over black-eyed peas, fried wings and smoked rib tips in bourbon sauce, shrimp po'boy sandwiches, and terrific chicken and ribs. There's enough of a selection of tequila shots to satisfy Pancho Villa, 11 bottled beers and seven on tap. 225 Varick St., at Clarkston St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/727--2775. <CRCARDS>AE.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Contemporary
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>80--85</DPRICE>

<TX2>

James Beard House. One of America's great cooks and an icon of American cuisine, cookbook author and bon vivant James Beard is no longer with us, but his generous spirit lives on in his Greenwich Village brownstone, now owned by a foundation that bears his name. In addition to nurturing the culinary arts with awards and scholarships, the foundation invites the world's most creative chefs to the house to cook in Beard's kitchen. For them, this is a performance of a lifetime, for which they pull out all stops. For the assembled diners, who include New York's food-loving movers and shakers, it's a chance to sample the work of top chefs without leaving the city. All of these events---dinner nightly and luncheon on most Fridays---are warm and festive affairs. 167 W. 12th St., off 6th Ave.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/627--2308. <RES>Reservations essential (about 1 month in advance)</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>59--79</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Gotham Bar and Grill. Chef Alfred Portale originated the vertical style of food presentation here, which turns each plate into an artful edible tower. Rack of lamb is always dependable, and the Gotham chocolate cake, served with toasted almond ice cream, should not be ignored. The lofty, multilevel space was the prototype of the new-style New York restaurant, with its warm salmon-and-green color scheme, diffused lighting from shirred-fabric fixtures, and large window overlooking a courtyard. 12 E. 12th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/620--4020. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>29--33</DPRICE>

<TX2>

147.If you managed to swing a reservation at Balthazar, it's probably because the trend-setters have dubbed this former firehouse Manhattan's 1999 sizzler. Cliff Williams, the charming maitre d' Hotel (Nell's and Bowery Bar) will probably greet you in this jazz-club/cum/restaurant/cigar-lounge. The space acommodates a long bar, an adjoining cigar lounge, and a vast, L-shaped dining room. Besides caviar,  sample the freshly steamed and fillerless crab cake, or the light, chilled vegetable rolls. Entrees might include filet mignon in a deep red-wine sauce or a fine roasted chicken with mashed potatoes. Desserts are light and a strong point: Sample the remarkably light mango cheesecake. The wine list is well chosen and affordable. Service is attentive and amusing---"the soup du jour is salty," "forget about ordering pasta and skip the hanger steak." If you're allergic to noise, you may also  want to skip the earsplitting front room.147 W, 15th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/929--5000. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.
 

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>French
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>19--34</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Chez Jacqueline. This charming bistro feels just like France with its specials written on the blackboard outside and cast of regulars at the bar. Owner Jacqueline Zini greets you like an old friend, and you'll want to become part of her family after sampling the delectable Provenc[cd]ale dishes, such as soupe de poisson, a creamy puree of seafood and vegetables; jarret de veau, or veal shank braised with tomatoes, potatoes, zucchini, garlic, endive, and olives in marrow sauce; veal kidneys; and the celebrated upside-down apple tart. The prix-fixe dinner is a good buy. 72 MacDougal St., between W. Houston and Bleecker Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/505--0727. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>19--33</DPRICE>

<TX2>


Moomba.The name refers to the Aborigine word for "let's get together & have fun," There's greenhouse patio at the entrance, raw bar, an undulating paper mache screen as well as a choice of ground floor or mezzanine dining rooms. Above all the madness, is an even more mad  lounge, for lounging, cigars and spirits. Despite the sultry scene, the greeting by attractive young women is exceptionally friendly and sans attitude. The food, as prepared by executive chef Frank Falcinelli, is surprisingly sophisticated, beautifully executed and inventive. A salad of crisp sweetbreads, maytag blue cheese, frisse and preserved shallot-hazelnut vinaigrette is exquisite and the foie gras preparation of the day is rosy and delicate. Molasses and raw sugar glazed tuna with roasted jalapeno salsa and a country herb and foie gras roasted Amish chicken with smashed Yukon gold potatoes are admirable entrees and desserts, by Wendy Israel, are devastating: the Moomba bar, a melange of dark chocolate torte, cocoa pudding and toasted almond caramel mousse is representative 133 Seventh Ave. South, at 10th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/989--1414. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1-2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>19--23</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Corsica. If you want the "perfect Greenwich Village restaurant," look no further than this seductive bistro, with its French country atmosphere combining exposed brick, copper pots, and stone floors. Try the unblemished  Corsican country dishes including  "torta" (a tart of Swiss chard and onions), rabbit, braised in white wine with onions, capers, olives and parsley and the decadent cheesecake, made with the Corsican cheese, "bruceio.". There's a charming sidewalk cafe[ac], weather permitting. 310 W. 4th St., between W. 12th and Bank Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/242--4705. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Mon. Nov.--Mar. No lunch</CLOSED>.
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>12--19</DPRICE>

<TX2>

French Roast. This casual, around-the-clock spot with a Left Bank ambience charges bargain prices for some very good bistro dishes rarely encountered, such as poached beef marrow finished with bread crumbs and served in broth. The croque monsieur (melted cheese sandwich, done in the style of French toast) is first-rate. Or just stop for coffee and dessert. 458 6th Ave., at 11th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/533--2233. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Italian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>19--34</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Grand Ticino. Walk down a few stairs to enter this agreeable little restaurant, with its hunter-green walls and romantic lighting. It's named after the Swiss Canton of Ticino and served its first meal in 1919. Home to artists and writers (Eugene O'Neill and Edna St. Vincent Millay were regulars), the Grand Ticino even made a cameo appearance in the movie Moonstruck. The menu includes excellent pasta, a wonderfully simple broiled chicken, and very good calves' liver. 228 Thompson St., between W. 3rd and Bleecker Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/777--5922. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Moroccan
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>19--31</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Cafe Fes. This amiable Moroccan restaurant, situated on one of Greenwich Village's most charming streets, is named after co-owner and chef Drissa Rafael's hometown. She and husband Jean Roger have created a perfect setting with peach walls, Moroccan lanterns, a tin ceiling, and a small fountain. The cold mixed salad, made with pureed eggplant and spinach, is a delectable beginning. The menu also includes the classic couscous, served in three variations, and tajine, a stewlike entre[ac]e made of lamb with prunes or artichokes and fava beans. 246 W. 4th St., at Charles St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/924--7653. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Pizza
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>11--18</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Arturo's. Few guidebooks list this brick-walled Village landmark, but the body-to-body crowds teetering on the wobbly wooden chairs suggest good things. The pizza is terrific, cooked in a coal-fired oven. Basic pastas as well as seafood, veal, and chicken concoctions with mozzarella and lots of tomato sauce come at giveaway prices. 106 W. Houston St., off Thompson St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/677--3820. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

</{3}><{2}><HEAD>Gramercy Park, Murray Hill, Chelsea, and the Flatiron DistrictAnother historical wonderland, the newly gentrified Flatiron District is the hub of super-trendy restaurants where black is the dress code, Metropolitan is the libation and cigar-smoke is odor of choice

</{2}><{3}><HEAD>American
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>40--78</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Gramercy Tavern. A 91-ft-long mural of fruit and vegetables wraps around the bar. Although the look is reminiscent of an English tavern, the food is decidedly new American. The "Tavern," as opposed to the main dining room, does not take reservations and offers some terrific plates from the wood-burning grill (hanger steak sandwich, for one). An appealing selection of cheese and a stellar wine list are offered here and in the main room with its smooth service and unrivaled media hype, making Gramercy Tavern a hard-to-get reservation. Co-owned by executive-chef Tom Colicchio and Danny  Meyer Union Square Cafe.42 E. 20th St., between Park Ave. S and Broadway</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/477--0777. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sun.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>33--60</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Union Square Cafe. In this spiffy restaurant where mahogany moldings outline white walls hung with bright modern paintings, the disposition is unpretentious, the service friendly, and the atmosphere  an unintrusive accompniment to executive-chef, Michael Romano's Iinventive creations. Breads are delicious and appetizers sparkle; we heartily endorse the iced oysters on the half shell, shucked to order, with shallot vinaigrette. While dinner entre[ac]es are conscientious, the sandwiches served at lunch---for example, fresh tuna club on Tom Cat white bread with slab bacon, arugula, and homemade herb-potato chips---approach the divine. 21 E. 16th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/243--4020. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sun.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>40--58</DPRICE>

<TX2>

An American Place. This stylish establishment with kindly service gets our vote as the country's finest regional American restaurant. Executive chef Larry Forgione is a leading supporter of new American cooking. His seasonal menu ranges from fresh Maine deviled-crab spring roll to cedar-planked salmon with seasonal vegetables. The high-ceilinged room with its Art Deco brasserie-style light fixtures, colorful Mikasa china, generously spaced tables, and Frank Stella paintings represents luxury at its most effortless. 2 Park Ave., at 32nd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/684--2122. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>40--58</DPRICE>

<TX2>
Verbena. In this small, cunning restaurant in the historic Inn at Irving Place, windows are dotted with small pots of herbs, and there are two small rooms with fireplaces and an engaging garden. An olive, beige, and mustard color scheme plays backdrop to executive chef Diane Foley's inventive yet severely simple style, as evidenced in chopped endive salad with melted Taleggio cheese tart, beer-braised ribs of beef with horseradish dumplings, and bittersweet chocolate souffle[ac]. 54 Irving Pl., at 17th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/260--5454. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Mon.--Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>34--48</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Granville. The decor---wrought-iron chandeliers, Asian carpets, and mahogany and leather furniture---brings to mind an English men's club. Nonsmokers are obliged to dine downstairs. Upstairs you'll find individual humidor lockers, a large bar with a different DJ every night, a superlative cigar lounge with overstuffed chairs and couches, and a dining room with a red-and-green tin ceiling. The savory entre[ac]es include cured sea bass on a sheet of nori, with ponzu sauce, and roasted monkfish in green curry. You may also indulge in an exotic cocktail, such as a ginger-lemongrass martini. 40 E. 20th St., between Broadway and Park Ave.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/253--9088. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>29--34</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Blue Water Grill. This popular restaurant, housed in what was once a bank, retains the original 1904 molded ceiling and marble. A copper-and-tile raw bar anchors one end of the sweeping room with its warm hues of indigo blue, sienna, and yellow. The menu is strong on seafood, served neat (chilled whole lobster; shrimp in the rough); in the au courant "global" style (Moroccan-spiced red snapper, Maryland crab cakes, warm shrimp cocktail in bamboo steamers with Japanese and Shanghai sauces); or in simple preparations from a wood-burning oven. For dessert, go for the brownie ice cream sundae. 31 Union Sq. W, at 16th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/675--9500. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>American Casual
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>29--34</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Park Avalon. The flagship restaurant of Steven Hanson (owner of Isabella's and Blue Water Grill) has two dining levels, huge alabaster-shaded light fixtures, massive mirrors, and a bar area with floor-to-ceiling wine cases and a dramatic display of lit candles. The trendy menu includes good pasta creations, such as homemade cracked black-pepper fettuccine with grilled portobello mushrooms, spinach, and cheese; another highlight is grilled free-range chicken with roasted garlic crust, saute[ac]ed broccoli rabe, and rosemary mashed potatoes. There are several low-fat desserts as well as marvelously intense sorbets. 225 Park Ave. S, between 18th and 19th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/533--2500. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Asian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>12--19</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Republic. Downtown epicureans on the run flock to this innovative Asian noodle emporium. At one of the two long bluestone bars, you can simultaneously dine and enjoy the spectacle of chefs scurrying amid clouds of steam in the open kitchen. The menu contains chiefly rice dishes or noodles, stir-fried with hints of ginger, peanuts, and coriander or served in savory broths, made with coconut milk, lemongrass, Asian basil, and lime leaf. <SUBSITE>There's also an uptown branch</SB> (2290 Broadway, between 82nd and 83rd Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/579--5959).</SUBSITE> 37A Union Sq. W, between 16th and 17th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/627--7172. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Contemporary
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>


. . .</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>45--59</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Water Club. This glass-enclosed barge in the East River is decidedly dramatic, with its long wood-paneled bar, blazing fireplace, appetizing shellfish display, and panoramic water views. Food is ingeniously presented. Tuna tartare with marinated shiitake mushrooms, wasabi, spicy ocean salad, and flying-fish roe arrives on a porthole with a tiny anchor supporting a jar of caviar. Or order the exemplary saute[ac]ed red snapper fillet with lobster dumpling fennel and saffron bouillon. Sample any dessert your conscience desires: Chocolate flourless cake with peppermint-stick ice cream will sweeten even the sourest disposition. Sunday brunch is winsome. 500 E. 30th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/683--3333. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>34--45</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Flowers. The intimate Tuscan-style dining room resembles a country-barn interior. Baskets of dried flowers adorn the walls, and copper light-fixtures exude a comforting glow that dims as the evening progresses.  The chef incorporates such influences as Asian (crispy shrimp roll with soy-ginger vinaigrette and spaghetti vegetables), Caribbean (roasted baby lamb chops with Jamaican spices), and Italian (risotto of seasonal wild mushrooms, asparagus, rosemary, and white truffle oil). Desserts are lovely---especially baked Alaska. 21 W. 17th St., between 5th and 6th Aves.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/691--8888. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>34--42</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Lola. Here, beautiful people dance to loud music when they're not sipping wine at the bar or languishing romantically on striped banquettes in the main dining room with bouquets of fresh flowers. Perhaps start with a stack of ribbon onion rings, and then follow with the signature Lola fried chicken and Cuban-style black beans. 30 W. 22nd St., between 5th and 6th Aves.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/675--6700. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>French
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2-3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>30--41</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Les Halles. Strikingly unpretentious, this French-American steak house has a homey interior, with posters plastered on antique walls, a tin ceiling, and a windowed kitchen. This is the place to go for crispy duck-leg confit and frise[ac]e salad, warm sausages with lentils, and heaping plates of garlicky cold cuts. A good bet is the extraordinary co[cx]te de boeuf, with be[ac]arnaise sauce, a massive rib steak for two served from a wooden board. 411 Park Ave. S, between 28th and 29th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/679--4111. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Indian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>18-29</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Mavalli Palace. Service may be a bit slow here, but the gentle prices and marvelous dishes more than compensate. Magnificent crepes made with lentils and rice flour are wrapped around potatoes and a fiery chutney. Fresh onions top uttappam, a rice and lentil pancake. This pretty place has exposed brick walls and blond wood chairs. 46 E. 29th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/679--5535. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Mon.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Italian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>36--56</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Le Madri. The Tuscan-style space with a vaulted ceiling and wood-burning pizza oven is the creation of Pino Luongo (of Coco Pazzo). Fried calamari and zucchini with spicy roast-pepper tomato sauce might be a prelude to braised veal shank with portobello mushrooms and saffron risotto. You're bound to enjoy the impeccable desserts, such as tortino (a warm chocolate-hazelnut cake), and the top-flight service. 168 W. 18th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/727--8022. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

Follonico. You'll like the vintage wainscoting, muted Tuscan colors, open kitchen, and wood-burning oven---but most of all, you will like the food, chef-owner Alan Tardi's personal interpretation of regional cuisine from Tuscany. The deep-fried oysters crowned with horseradish cream and osetra caviar are so good you'll want to overindulge. But save room for one of the unusual pastas. Fazzoletto, a handkerchief pasta imprinted with fresh herbs, is sauced differently with each visit---but it's always inspired. Follow this with a whole red snapper, baked in a rock-salt crust. Fresh fruit granita is refreshing, but it would be a shame to leave without submerging a biscotti into a compatible dessert wine and some bracing espresso. 6 W. 24th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/691--6359. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>39--48</DPRICE>

<TX2>

I Trulli. Nicola Marzovilla of Tempo, a successful Italian restaurant, created this intimate space with rough-hewn gold walls, a glass-enclosed fireplace, a garden for summer dining, and a whitewashed open grill with the traditional beehive-shape of early Pugliese houses. Start your dinner with an out-of-the-ordinary glass of wine from a little-known producer and one of the enticing appetizers, such as baked oysters with pancetta, Tallegio cheese, and bread crumbs. Specialties use game, meat, and fish cooked in the wood-fired oven. 122 E. 27th St., between Lexington and Park Ave. S</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/481--7372. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>30--34</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Sal Anthony's. Of the many Italian restaurants in this historic area, this town-house dining room is one of the best and most pleasant. Opened in 1966, long before a pasta palace anchored every other corner, Sal Anthony's has attracted a loyal cadre with its deferential service, superior wine list, thick veal chops, and pretty decor---oil paintings on brick walls, huge bouquets, and crisp white cloths on well-spaced tables. 55 Irving Pl.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/982--9030. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>30--34</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Caffe Bondi Ristorante. This fascinating small restaurant with a garden boasts one of Manhattan's most authentic menus (a food historian helped re-create the cooking of southern Italy in the 18th and 19th centuries): artichokes braised in almond sauce, ravioli filled with pumpkin and ricotta, oven roasted boar chops, quail stuffed with grapes, and a chocolate almond torte you'll remember for a lifetime. The wine list is short, excellent, and fairly priced. 7 W. 20th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/691--8136. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED></CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Latin
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>40--53</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Patria. Owned by Philip Suarez (of Vong and Jo Jo), this trendy trilevel Caribbean cafe[ac], painted in striking earth tones, has handsome mosaics and an open grill. The fluctuating menu offers variations of several ethnic entre[ac]es such as meat, vegetable, or seafood empanadas as well as soups and seafood (look for the crispy red snapper with coconut-conch rice). Even nonsmokers will want to indulge in the signature dessert, a chocolate cigar with edible matches. The wine list focuses on Spain, Argentina, and California. 250 Park Ave. S, at 20th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/777--6211. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

</{3}>


<HEAD>Pizza


<PRICECATEGORY>[1-2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>20-26</DPRICE>
<TX2>

La Pizza Fresca With its authentic wood burning brick oven,  brick walls and red clay floor tiles,  this inexpensive restaurant offers some on Manhattan's most authentic pizza. The staff is friendly, if somewhat unfocused, and there is an adequate selection of Italian wines at reasonable prices. The twelve inch Napoletana pizza with fresh tomato sauce , mozzarella, and the traditional thin crust is crispy and representative.  Salads are fresh and inviting; the tiramisu (lady finger cookies soaked in espresso and layered with mascarpone cheese) is prima. 31 E. 20th St, Betw. Park Ave. South & B'way.</ADDRESS><PHONE>212/598--0141<CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.



<{3}><HEAD>Seafood
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]-[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[29-37]</DPRICE>
<TX2>

Crab House. Part of a national chain, this large restaurant with 650 seats at Chelsea Piers has knotty-pine walls, waterfront dining, and spectacular views of the Statue of Liberty and the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge. You can't go wrong with the all-you-can-eat salad bar or the tender cod, fried in a crispy beer-batter, served with fries. The Crab House has a sports bar called Madison Square Garden, where you can sample fine locally brewed beers. Chelsea Pier 61, 23rd St. near the Hudson River</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/366--4111. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V<CLOSED>Lunch, Jan-May</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Senegalese
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>11-16</DPRICE>
<TX2>

Ngone. At this pleasant dining spot, colorful African-patterned cloths cover the tables, and the walls display tapestries and painted scenes of the countryside, filled with elephants and wild game. Among the appealingly hot dishes are traditional boulettes (appetizers of boneless fish, seasoned with parsley and spices), chicken yassa (cooked with lemon, ginger, carrots, and potatoes), and lamb in a creamy peanut sauce. The Senegalese version of French toast provides a comforting conclusion to your meal. Although the Muslim staff abstains from liquor, you may bring your own wine or beer. 823 6th Ave., between 28th and 29th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/967--7899. <CRCARDS>No credit cards. <MISC>BYOB</MISC>. <CLOSED>Closed Sun.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Southwestern
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>40-50</DPRICE>
<TX2>
Mesa Grill. Chef Bobby Flay and owner Jerome Kretchmer have Manhattan foodies in the palms of their hands in this former bank, now done up with vinyl banquettes, green-and-yellow walls, and industrial fans. You can't go wrong with the small menu. Try the shrimp with a roasted garlic and corn tamale, the pumpkin soup with chili cream, or the chili-crusted rabbit with sweet-potato polenta and caramelized mango sauce. Chocolate--peanut butter ice cream cake with roasted marshmallows is just one of the unbeatable desserts. 102 5th Ave., between 15th and 16th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/807--7400. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Spanish
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]

<DPRICE>[43-49]</DPRICE></PRICECATEGORY>
<TX2>
Bolo. With its tile-edged brick oven, vivid gold--red-cobalt color scheme, state-of-the-art open kitchen, and polished wood bar, the design here fuses Manhattan and Spain. The food aims at New York palates: Oven-roasted baby shrimp with toasted garlic is garnished with fragrant sprigs of thyme, and curried shellfish paella unites bivalves with sausage, chicken, and rice. If you're not in the mood for the perfect house sangria, choose from the well-chosen and well-priced wine list. 23 E. 22nd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/228--2200. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Turkish
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1-2]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>19-32]</DPRICE>
<TX2>

Turkish Kitchen. Manhattan's best Turkish restaurant is housed in a striking multilevel room with lipstick-red walls, chairs with skirted slipcovers, framed prints, and kilims covering the walls and floor. The young staff dressed in long white chefs' aprons serves delicate and authentic food. For appetizers, choose from such delectable offerings as velvety char-grilled eggplant salad, pan-fried calves' liver, and fried calamari. The stuffed cabbage and bulgur-wheat patties, filled with ground lamb, pine nuts, and currants, are both highly recommended. 386 3rd Ave., between 27th and 28th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/679--1810. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Vegetarian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[18-29.75]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Zen Palate. In this remarkable vegetarian restaurant, walls are made from squares of fragile rice paper, and there are wooden beams and bamboo chairs. The resplendent appetizers include taro spring rolls, Vietnamese-style autumn rolls, and marinated seaweed. Entre[ac]es have poetic names like "Festival on a Roll" (seasoned spinach in soybean crepes with a spicy sauce) and "Dreamland" (layers of spinach linguine, bean sprouts, and shredded black mushrooms). 34 Union Sq. E, at 16th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/614--9291; 663 9th Ave.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/582--1669; 2170 Broadway</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/501--7768. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. No lunch Sun.

</{3}><{2}><HEAD>MidtownAccessible to everything you ever wanted to see, this area offers perhaps the widest choice of restaurants in all price ranges, styles and manner of dress.

</{2}><{3}><HEAD>Afghan
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1-2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[19-33.50]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Pamir. Afghan cuisine might be loosely described as a combination of Italian, Chinese, and Middle Eastern cooking; for New Yorkers, it's exotic, healthy, and delicious. This attractive two-level restaurant has gold-leaf chandeliers, hanging brass pots, Asian rugs, and brass sconces. It serves such memorable dishes as delicate, deep-fried turnovers with stuffing of pumpkin or carrot; scallion-filled dumplings topped with yogurt and meat sauce; and a me[ac]lange of seasoned lamb garnished with pistachio nuts, almonds, orange strips, cardamom, and rose water. 1065 1st Ave., at 58th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/644--9258; 1437 2nd Ave., between 74th and 75th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/734--3791. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sat.--Mon.</CLOSED>

<MAP>[2fp]2-page map: Midtown Manhattan Dining[2fp]</MAP>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>American
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>65-125</DPRICE>
<TX2>
Rainbow Room. This 25 million dinner-and-dancing room on the 65th floor remains a monument to glamour and fantasy with its state-of-the-art sound and lighting systems and colored lights beaming across a domed ceiling. Tables clad in silver lame[ac] rise in tiers around a revolving dance floor lit by an immense chandelier; aubergine walls frame panoramic 50-mi views through floor-to-ceiling windows. Revamped retro dishes including lobster Thermidor and oysters Rockefeller contrast with specialties utilizing Hudson River valley produce (such as local cheeses, game, and New York State foie gras), all prepared by executive chef Waldy Malouf, formerly of the Hudson River Club. 30 Rockefeller Plaza</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/632--5000 or 212/632--5100. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket and tie</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Mon. (Sun.--Mon. in summer)</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>61-127</DPRICE>
<TX2>
"21" Club. Not all are treated equally in this four-story brownstone landmark, a former speakeasy, purchased in 1995 by the Orient Express Hotels Group. If you're not known, the greeting can be indifferent, even chilly. Once you're inside, though, service is seamless, and it's exciting to hobnob with celebrities and tycoons and sip a well-made cocktail in the lounge before dinner. Here is one of the world's great wine cellars, with some 50,000 bottles (restored in 1996 and available for special tasting dinners). The Grill Room is the place to be, with its banquettes, red-checked tablecloths, and a ceiling hung with toys; it serves such standbys as the signature "21" burger  and a host of more exciting adventures (a sensational Asian-style seared tuna, accompanied by chopsticks), courtesy of executive chef Erik Blauberg.. 21 W. 52nd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/582--7200. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket and tie</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[55-77]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Fifty Seven Fifty Seven. Designed by I. M. Pei, the Four Seasons Hotel, which houses this room, is strikingly sleek, and its 22-ft coffered ceilings, inlaid maple floors, and onyx-studded bronze chandeliers set the tone for urbane food served superbly. Imaginative appetizers like lobster Caesar salad are exceptional, and it's hard to choose between the perfectly timed herb-roasted rack of lamb and the moist rack of veal with its crispy onion garnish. 57 E. 57th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/758--5757. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>
<DPRICE>[33-49]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Judson Grill. Another venture of Jerome Kretchmer (of Gotham Bar and Grill fame), the airy space with a bar and balcony has red velour banquettes, mirrored walls, lofty ceilings, engaging John Parks murals, and immense gold vases. The open kitchen produces sumptuous dishes like seared New York State foie gras and inventive fish entre[ac]es, yet the more down-to-earth preparations---salads, sandwiches, and steaks---are equally well executed. The wine list is beautifully organized and eminently agreeable. 152 W. 52nd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/582--5252. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>[34-57]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Maloney and Porcelli. Pictures of eagles and a large fish suspended from the ceiling brighten up this lively two-level space, decorated in a green-and-beige color scheme with wood accents. A large, square bar marks the center of the room. The definitive dish is a crackling pork shank with firecracker apple sauce. It's huge, juicy, and served on a bed of poppy-seed sauerkraut, with a mason jar of tangy, homemade apple sauce. Among the fun desserts, try the drunken doughnuts, served with three little pots of liqueur-flavored jam. The wine list is inventive (40 wines, for example, priced under 40). 37 E. 50th St., between Madison and Park Aves.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/750--2233. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>29-37</DPRICE>
<TX2>


Ambassador Grill. If it's Sunday, head for the Park Hyatt Hotel, which houses this greenhouse-inspired model of modern elegance with black-and-white tile floors, pink tablecloths, abundant plants, and an open kitchen. The brunch buffet is one of the finest in the city. But then the dining experience here is always first-class (and at less than first-class prices). There's also an amazing prix-fixe dinner. 1 United Nations Plaza, at 44th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/702--5014. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>29-34</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Billy's. In this quintessential New York neighborhood restaurant, established in 1870, straightforward burgers, steaks, fish, and pasta dishes take second place to such down-home specials as chicken potpie, turkey with real mashed potatoes, and corned beef and cabbage. Billy's neighborhood is unusually moneyed (it's the home of the exclusive River House and the kind of people who are written up in Fortune magazine and the society pages), so the people-watching is often as satisfying as the comfort food and vintage setting. 948 1st Ave., between 52nd and 53rd Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/753--1870. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Basque
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>37-45.50</DPRICE>
<TX2>

Marichu. Natural brick, old beams from Connecticut, and a lovely garden grace New York's only Basque restaurant. As prepared here, Basque cuisine is refined and elegant, with notable seafood offerings. There's no better way to start than with Rioja peppers, stuffed with a puree of cod. Order one of the changing house specials---you won't be disappointed. And do explore the fascinating list of Spanish wines. 342 E. 46th St., between 1st and 2nd Aves.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/370--1866. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Brewery
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[16.75-33</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Commonwealth Brewing Company. This energetic spot sports a clean, modern look with blond wood floors, huge beer vats behind a glass wall, maroon padded booths, and black wood tables. Come here for the fabulous European-style ales and lagers---we suggest tasting them all, including Rockefeller Red, Hudson River Porter, Gotham City Gold, Lady Liberty Lager, and a wheat brew, enhanced by a twist of lemon. The ambitious menu should satisfy the hardiest of appetites. Go for the sampler, served on a multitiered rack; its contents change daily, but it may include German beer and cheese dip, tuna tartare, Asian chicken sticks, or crab cakes. There are also sausage specials and a fabulous herb-crusted five-grain vegetable chop. Sure to please is the terrific Hudson River Porter cheesecake with sugar crunch dipping crackers for dessert. 10 Rockefeller Plaza, at 48th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/977--2269. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

{}<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[30.25-33.75]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Typhoon Brewery. Downstairs, there's a satay bar serving raw and cooked appetizers and a long brew bar offering six beers (including India pale ale, nut brown ale, and American amber) and 30 wines, all by the glass. Upstairs in a brick-walled area with exposed pipes, you dine at galvanized-steel tabletops in wonderful circular booths surrounded by industrial metal cages. The excellent Thai dishes include shell-on shrimp with garlic and pepper and seasonal Thai vegetables in green curry. For dessert, don't miss the banana fritters with banana ice cream. 22 E. 54th St., between Madison and 5th Aves.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/754--9006. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Chinese
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[49.25-79]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Tse Yang. There are Tse Yangs in Paris, Geneva, and Beverly Hills, but this one is perhaps the most dramatic, with its dark polished wood, dim lighting, elegant tableware, and exotic fish tank. One of the joys of dining here is experimenting with wine and food combinations. Try the crisp whole sea bass with an equally crisp sauvignon blanc or the Peking duck, served traditionally with doilies (thin pancakes) and skin, with a spicy gewurztraminer. 34 E. 51st St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/688--5447. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[34.50-44]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Chiam. Although purists argue that the only worthy Chinese eateries are in Chinatown, such venues as this, with its polished service, make a persuasive case for the more westernized uptown experience. The stylish setting includes natural wood, an understated white-and-black motif, and a courtyard view. The wine list is extraordinary for a Chinese restaurant (inquire about special wine-tasting dinners). Enlist the services of your congenial captain, who will select from such diverse menu options as squab soon (minced pigeon in lettuce leaves) and steamed lotus-wrapped chicken. 160 E. 48th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/371--2323. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[31-39]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Jimmy Sung's. Four dramatic peacock-fountain chandeliers cast off restrained lighting at this elegant Chinese restaurant with rich carpeting, patterned wallpaper, gleaming cherry-wood paneling, and ornately carved wood arches. The menu concentrates on Manchurian, Shanghai, and Mandarin cuisine, all discreetly served on lovely china. Begin your dinner auspiciously with vegetarian pie with house pancake---crisp sheets of bean curd are stuffed in a puffy pancake, accompanied by plum sauce and scallions. Next, choose among such well-prepared entre[ac]es as salt-baked fresh cuttlefish, shrimp or scallops with chili pepper (a dish rarely encountered uptown), or sliced prawn, barely cooked, and served with an ethereal egg white sauce. 219 E. 44th St., between 2nd and 3rd Aves.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/682--5678. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[28.75-39.90]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Tang Pavillion. Outside of Chinatown, this is the most authentic Chinese restaurant in Manhattan, featuring the cuisine of Shanghai and Soo Chow. Request the Shanghai menu, which is presented in English as well as Chinese. Go with a group on your first visit so you may share the crisp baby eel, drunken chicken, Tung-Po pork stuffed in incredibly light doughy buns, jumbo shrimp with walnuts in a slightly sweet, slightly spicy sauce, and green beans and tofu sheets (reminiscent of pasta). 65 W. 55th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/956--6888. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Contemporary
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>69-128</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Lespinasse. The pulchritudinous (some call it stuffy) Louis XV decor of this St. Regis Sheraton dining room, with its oil paintings and commodious seating in satin chairs, is an ideal setting for the refined cuisine of Gray Kunz, who honed his craft under Switzerland's celebrated Fre[ac]dy Girardet. Kunz's Singapore past as chef of Hong Kong's Regent Hotel dining room is evident in some of the entre[ac]es with Asian accents. A less adventurous repast might begin with herbed risotto and mushroom fricassee, move on to rack of lamb on curried eggplant tart, and conclude with warm chocolate tartlet with orange-grapefruit coulis. 2 E. 55th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/339--6719. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[55-77]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Four Seasons Grill and Pool Room. The two unique dining areas in the Mies van der Rohe--designed Seagram building feature architect Philip Johnson's timeless contemporary design. The Grill Room, bastion of the power lunch, also offers an affordable prix-fixe dinner. Starkly masculine, it has inviting leather banquettes, rosewood walls, a renowned floating sculpture, and one of the best bars in New York. A short stroll through the marble corridor leads to the celebrated Pool Room, with its illuminated trees, Carrera marble gurgling pool, and undulating chain curtains. The eclectic international menu changes often, and you'll appreciate the aristocratic wine list and smooth service. 99 E. 52nd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/754--9494. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[79-125</DPRICE>

<TX2>

March. With its travertine floor, working fireplace, and burled teak and English elm wainscoting, this singular restaurant is elegantly understated. Co-owner Joseph Salice supervises the polished and inconspicuous service, and the cuisine of chef Wayne Nish is at once restrained and inspired, demonstrating a mastery of classical technique coupled with artful contemporary presentations. Dishes include Japanese-influenced sashimi of Japanese yellowfin tuna with olive oil and soy sauce and luxury offerings, such as the whimsical "Beggar's Purses," filled with lobster and truffles.  A new policy  replaces entrees with a complete menu of tasting portions; duel tasting-menus is another inovation.  405 E. 58th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/754--6272. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed lunch.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>40-57</DPRICE>

<TX2>

China Grill. This huge restaurant has jade-color walls, cloudlike light fixtures, and an open kitchen. The Asian-inspired cuisine may make you overlook the noise: lobster or duck pancakes, sake-cured salmon rolls, duck in caramelized black vinegar, and, for dessert, coconut creme bru[cx]le[ac]e or  a chocolate  composite, built around a chocolate-sushi is devastating. The wine list is full of pleasures; the dessert wines are perfect as aperitifs and with vinegar-based and sweet-and-sour sauces. Check out the flavored sakes. 60 W. 53rd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/333--7788. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>48-57</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Monkey Bar. Cobalt-blue bread plates and glasses, etched-glass panels of the Manhattan skyline, velvet banquettes with a colorful palm-tree design, and cute little monkeys hanging from the lighting fixtures all contribute to the lively atmosphere of this fashionable restaurant. You can bypass the mobbed bar scene by entering through the subdued Hotel Elyse[ac]e. There's no monkey business going on with the food; perfectly roasted cod with silky mashed potatoes, carrots, and celery-root chips as well as the baked Alaska for dessert are both recommended. 60 E. 54th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/838--2600. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>[29-47]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Bryant Park Grill, Roof Restaurant and BP Cafe. Stone fountains, Parisian chairs, and a 200-seat outdoor garden precede the more formal Grill area, graced with rare lacquered woods, slate floors, and velvet leaf-patterned banquettes. Food is reasonably good, considering the volume demand on the kitchen. A typical dinner: calamari salad, Joe's special (scrambled eggs, saute[ac]ed spinach, ground sirloin, and mushrooms), and chocolate souffle[ac]. 25 W. 40th St., between 5th and 6th Aves.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/840--6500. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.


<DPRICE>[32-49]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

The ParkThe posh new tenant of a space adjoining the Lombardy
Hotel,  was originally owned and inhabited by William Randolph Hearst,. The spectacular setting includes Baccarat chandeliers,  cool blue and golden beet walls, gilded with pale salmon acccents and plush green velvet banquettes. Rudi Valli once performed in the 90 bar lounge, which now features cool jazz and there is even an elegant Cigar Lounge called Tamboril. The extravagantly handsome owner, John Scotto, also enjoys a winning personality and is a model host. The cuisine, under the direction of executive chef Fabrizzio Salerni (Lespinasse) rivals the best in Manhattan. A memorable dining experience might begin with a crabmeat salad with bourbon-tomato dressing on a bed of avocado relish and continue with ravioli, filled with portobello mushrooms in a light sauce of parsley juice and tomato glaze. Desserts, by Patience Dadz Kamen are no less dazzling. Ms. Kamen's hazelnut bomb with milk chocolate sauce praline parfait, accents of chocolate on a nutty joconde and roche of hazelnut (the menu description) need not be described, merely observed and devoured. 109
East 56th Street </ADDRESS><PHONE>212/750--5656<CRCARDS>AE, MC, CV.



<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[41-57]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Vong. Jean-Georges Vongerichten's stint at Bangkok's Oriental Hotel inspired this radiant restaurant with its potted palms and gold-leaf ceiling. While the menu changes often, reliable standbys include the lobster and daikon roll with rosemary-ginger dip; lobster in Thai spices; and the distinctive rabbit curry braised with carrots and cumin seed. Prices, though not bad, can be kept down by ordering a second appetizer in lieu of an entre[ac]e. Wines are well chosen, but you may favor beer. 200 E. 54th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/486--9592. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>French
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>61-87</DPRICE>

<TX2>
La Co[cx]te Basque. A landmark in French dining has found a new home. Practically all the elements of the original restaurant have been imported, including the dark wooden cross beams, signature murals by Bernard Lamotte, faux windows, and even the revolving door. Executive chef-owner Jean-Jacques Rachou has lightened the cuisine but retained the generous portions. Customers can partake of a reasonable (for such quality) fixed-price, three-course dinner, with very few surcharges. Begin with the trio of pate[ac]s or one of the gossamer souffle[ac]s. If two select the signature roast duckling with honey, Grand Marnier, and black-cherry sauce, your waiter will deliver it whole for inspection and then carve it before you. Allow plenty of time to survey the extraordinary wine list. 60 W. 55th St., between 5th and 6th Aves.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/688--6525. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket and tie</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sun.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>70-188</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Lutece. One of New York's most prestigious restaurants, Lutece was sold in 1994 to the Ark Group (owner of B. Smith's, Ernie's, Jim McMullen, American Place, and others). The service ranges from friendly to somewhat distant; the menu retains signature dishes (the onion tart, for example) and favorites of the old regime alongside more contemporary creations. You can still savor the classic souffle[ac]s. 249 E. 50th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/752--2225. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. and Aug. No lunch Mon. and Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>[55-77]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

La Reserve. This luxurious, exceedingly beautiful restaurant can be an excellent value if you go for the prix-fixe lunch. Lighting is soft, the flowers and murals lovely, the service smooth, and the wine list replete with great bottles from great cha[cx]teaux in great years. The cuisine represents a contemporary side of the classical French kitchen; lobster salad, smoked salmon, saddle of rabbit, poached Dover sole with an artichoke mousse, and panier Pompadour, a basket of fresh raspberries and white and dark chocolate mousse, are all artfully presented. 4 W. 49th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/247--2993. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket and tie</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[51-67]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Peacock Alley. This luxurious Waldorf-Astoria salon, along with Adrienne (the Peninsula) and Halcyon (the Rihga Royal) offers one of New York's most dependable hotel-dining experiences. Lacking the media-hype (and stuffiness) of Lespinasse (the St. Regis),  and the formality (and haughty-reception) of Les Ce[ac]le[ac]brite[ac]s (the Essex House),  its kitchen is currently better than either.  The comfortable restaurant also boasts tranquil lighting, lovely murals with a peacock motif, and cushy seating at banquettes and roomy tables, as well as the professional service, fine china, and comprehensive wine cellar that distinguish many of today's hotel restaurants. (And how many of Manhattan's luxury restaurants pour Evian (gratis), rather than tap water)? The Chef de cuisine, Laurent Gras (formally of the celebrated Louis XV in Monaco), performs miracles with soups whose descriptions read like a veritable Larousse Gastronomique (pumpkin consomme[ac] with sweet and sour chicken wings, cockscombs and San Danielle ham), and where else outside of France could one sample such distinguished entree[ac]s as a boned rack of lamb, baked in clay, with Swiss chard and apricots.  A dessert soup garnished with passion-fruit sorbet and tropical fruits is yet another triumph. 301 Park Ave., between 49th and 50th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/872--4895. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>49-57</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Adrienne. The graceful restaurant of the Peninsula Hotel offers extravagant comfort. The Belle Epoque decor, subdued lighting, spacious seating, and attention to detail afford a rare respite from the trendy at one extreme and tired at the other. Service is extraordinary. The kitchen is dependable, if not adventurous, and Sunday brunch is elegance itself, an elaborate buffet with harp music. 700 5th Ave., at 55th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/903--3918. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CLOSED>No lunch Sat., no dinner Sun.--Mon.</CLOSED>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>41-52</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Bouterin. Baskets of apples and copper pans adorn the walls, adding a warm touch to the new home of chef-owner Antoine Bouterin, formerly of Le Pe[ac]rigord. The mix-and-match feel of the decor arises from Monsieur Bouterin's interest in antiques collecting. The short menu of unpretentious dishes specializes in the cuisine of Provence and includes an old-fashioned lamb stew, cooked for seven hours and best eaten with a spoon. 420 E. 59th St., off 1st Ave.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/758--0323. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3-4]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>59-90</DPRICE>
<TX2>
La Caravelle. Rita and Andre[ac] Jammet's celebration of the good life is New York's most Parisian restaurant. The appealing main dining room comes alive with Jean Pages murals, its colors spilling over to the pink-peach banquettes. Mirrors, flowers, and the Caravelle coat of arms add to the scene, as does the most professional service staff in town. Enjoy truffled pike dumplings in lobster sauce; the perfectly roasted chicken in a delicate bath of champagne and cream; and one of the irresistible cloudlike souffle[ac]s (which must be requested at the beginning of the meal). 33 W. 55th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/586--4252. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket and tie</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3--4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>55-69</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Le Pe[ac]rigord. When you enter this luxurious restaurant, you're greeted with dusty rose walls, well-spaced tables, and an inviting display of hors d'oeuvres and desserts. The international clientele demands first-class food at a fair price, and that's what owner--mai[cx]tre d'ho[cx]tel Georges Briguet provides. As in southwestern France, begin with fresh foie gras, which is worth the modest surcharge on the prix-fixe dinner. There's a juicy saute[ac]ed beef fillet in red wine and bone marrow sauce. The Lyonnaise dessert cart is tempting with homemade tarts and cakes. 405 E. 52nd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/755--6244. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket and tie</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>29-34</DPRICE>

<TX2>
Cafe Centro. Reminiscent of a French brasserie with terrazzo floors, interior columns accented with gold leaf, and a glass-enclosed kitchen, this pleasant cafe[ac] has an eclectic menu, including a good three-pound T-bone steak and some compelling desserts. The wine list is admirable, while the separate beer bar offers more than 30 selections and has its own attractively priced menu with fun snacks. 200 Park Ave., between 45th St. and Vanderbilt Ave., in the Met Life Bldg.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/818--1222. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2--3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[34-60]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Cite[ac]. Alan Stillman (of Smith and Wollensky, Manhattan Ocean Club, Post House, and Park Avenue Cafe[ac] fame) offers an incredible deal. His Art Deco Parisian-style brasserie with crystal chandeliers and imported grillwork (not to be confused with the more casual adjoining bistro) pours four wines with dinner free of charge. The wines change, but they're always top-drawer. An excellent three-course dinner is served from 8 [pm] to midnight. The food ranges from American steak house to Mediterranean, and since there's a real chef in the kitchen, you needn't stick to the excellent roast beef and sparkling shrimp or lobster cocktail. 120 W. 51st St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/956--7100. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Indian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>[30-41]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Dawat. One of the city's finest Indian restaurants, this classy, understated spot has roomy tables and consultant Madhur Jaffrey's creative cuisine. Provocative choices include shrimp in mustard seeds with curry leaves, and Parsi-style salmon, steamed in a banana leaf with coriander chutney. The kulcha, an onion-stuffed bread flavored with fresh coriander, is particularly good. Dawat demonstrates the charms of Indian sweets; try the pudding-like carrot halvah, the kheer (rice pudding) with pistachios, and kulfi, a delicate frozen dessert. 210 E. 58th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/355--7555. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sun.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>29-34</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Jewel of India. Since its opening in 1990, this glittering restaurant---with its attractive lounge and bar area and popular luncheon buffet---has had a loyal following. The main dining room shimmers with hammered silver, mother of pearl, and brass and overflows with wall hangings, exotic sculptures, and carved rosewood screens. In the subcontinent's exotic cookery, each dish must exhibit its distinct flavor; spice plays against spice. Jewel of India specializes in the fare of the north, which trades in the south's vegetarian dishes for subtle meat preparations. The marvelous herb-scented breads and knockout tandoori show off the kitchen's prowess. 15 W. 44th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/869--5544. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.


<DPRICE>29-34</DPRICE>
Diwan GrillThe Manhattan offspring of what is arguably New York's (Queens) best small Indian restaurant, Jackson Diner, the main dining room has a mysterious quality with its low-key-lighting, comfortable, oversize booths and exotic wall hangings. The food, whether the remarkable tandoori breads, grilled chicken, lamb-sausage or tandoori-vegetables and beautfully-spiced curries is always superb, as is the nurturing service. Here is the ideal place to bring your vegetarian friends for the "thail," a complete dinner of small vegetable curries, condiments, breads and desserts, served on the traditional round tray. 148 E. 48th St.</ADDRESS><PHONE>212/593-5425<CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.


</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Italian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>61-93.50</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Felidia. Manhattanites frequent this celebrated bilevel ristorante as much for the winning enthusiasm of Lidia Bastianich, who owns it with her husband, Felix, as for the food, whose style is evidenced in an array of regional and seasonal masterpieces, including dishes featuring white truffles and some exceptional game preparations in the fall. Fresh homemade pasta, roasted whole fish of the day, and an elite wine list composed of Italy's finest vineyards can always be counted on. Guests dine in an attractive front room with a wooden bar, in the rustic room beyond, and in a skylit balcony with terra-cotta floor, hanging tapestry, and lovely plants. 243 E. 58th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/758--1479. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket and tie</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[55.25-77.75]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Il Nido. This fashionable restaurant, with wood beams set in rough plaster walls, strives to create the interior of a Tuscan farmhouse. Hands-on restaurateur Adi Giovanetti finishes pastas, whisks zabaglione, and prepares the masterful blend of Gorgonzola and cognac to spread on toast. Dishes will please traditionalists: salmon carpaccio, malfatti (a raviolilike pasta), baked red snapper. Be prepared to wait for your table. 251 E. 53rd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/753--8450. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<DPRICE>[51-71]</DPRICE>

<TX2>



San Pietro. The stylish San Pietro highlights specialties of the Amalfi Coast and southern Italy. Among the remarkable pastas, you won't find cliche[ac]s, 
but instead such eye-openers as homemade strips of buckwheat 
pasta with fontina and savoy cabbage, and chickpea--flour noodles 
with pesto. Similarly masterful are the grilled whole snapper and 
roast suckling pig, rolled around fresh herbs in white wine sauce. 
There are nice wines by the glass and wonderful homemade tarts 
and cheesecake.18 E. 54th St.,</ADDRESS> <PHONE> tel. 212/753--9015. <RES>Reservations ad<->
vised. </RES><DRESS>Jacket advised.</DRESS> <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>39-51</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Girafe. This Italian restaurant, with its name spelled in French, has a 20-ft-high metal statue of its namesake waiting outside to greet you. Inside, you can sample a northern Italian traditional meal: hay and straw (green and white vermicelli) in a bath of cream, prosciutto, and peas, served with a thick, juicy veal chop. The house tiramisu definitely qualifies as one of Manhattan's best. 208 E. 58th St., between 2nd and 3rd Aves.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/752--3054. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>29-34.50</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Anche Vivolo. Austrian shades and big clay pots of fresh flowers help create the feel of an enclosed garden. This is one of the best deals in an expensive part of town. Huge portions of such well-prepared dishes as linguine Francesco (with garlic, anchovies, basil, tomatoes, and oregano) would cost at least 50% more at most of the other restaurants on this Italianate block. The best entre[ac]e is often a special. 222 E. 58th St., between 2nd and 3rd Aves.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/308--0112. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[19-31]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Naples Ristorante e Pizzeria. The main dining room with three pizza ovens named after volcanoes is brightened by shelves of appetizing take-out items and gleaming white tiles softened by bands of terra-cotta. Equally tempting are the risotto cake, stuffed with meat ragu and boiled egg, and pizza, served by the half "metre" or as a whole pie for four or more. The long bar serves terrific wines by the glass and an interesting selection of antipasti and other appetizers. There's also a colorful outdoor patio. Met Life Bldg., 200 Park Ave., at E. 45th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/972--7001. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed weekends</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Japanese
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>61-127</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Otabe. The sleek dining room has attractive wall prints and spacious seating. Among the appealing appetizers, try grilled eel on a bed of cucumber with a bouquet of fresh ginger or deep-fried tofu and eggplant. Adventurous souls will love the sparkling slices of raw tuna sashimi brushed with garlic-flavored soy sauce. Traditional Kyoto cuisine (a tasting menu of several small dishes) can be ordered, and in a room in back, you can experience superbly authentic teppan (barbecue-style grill) cooking. Here, you can spoil yourself with Kobe beef, so tender knives are unnecessary. 68 E. 56th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/223--7575. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>69-157</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Seryna. This lovely restaurant vividly evokes Tokyo with its dignified air, earth tones, and comfortable seating at big wooden tables. Although the sushi is superbly fresh, the specialty is steak ishiyaki, cooked table-side on a smoldering rock. In the six-course wagyu dinner, you can choose between it and shabu shabu, another mealtime dish-cum-event: You begin with a broth to which you add meat (which you then eat), then vegetables, then noodles, and conclude by sipping the bracing soup. Cocktails are served in small carafes that come buried in crushed ice. Service is superb. 11 E. 53rd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/980--9393. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<HEAD>Kosher

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[33-51]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Haikara Grill. Haikara means "high-class" in Japanese, and Manhattan's first kosher sushi has an opulent ambience. The main dining room with its wall of mirrors features framed Japanese prints and a striking framed kimono. You'll enjoy the traditional bento (Japanese dinner box), partitioned with a bowl of soup, raw-fish rolls, steak, blanched vegetables, and sesame noodles. Desserts are simple, such as fresh fruit, attractively presented in edible chocolate cups. 1016 2nd Ave., between 53rd and 54th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/355--7000. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Fri. No dinner, no lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Korean
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>15-19.95</DPRICE>

<TX2>

New York Kom Tang Soot Bul House. Specializing in barbecue, this is one of the best Korean restaurants on a street jammed with them, and dinner is a show. So come ready for charades (little English is spoken); wear clothes you don't mind getting smoky (from the hibachis in the center of the communal tables); and insist on the attractive second floor. Dinner starts with 10 delicious side dishes, including kimchi (peppery Korean pickle). Afterward there's soup, then the main event: You cook thin slices of beef or chicken over red-hot coals, top them with hot chilies and raw garlic, and wrap it all up with lettuce. 32 W. 32nd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/947--8482. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Latin
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1-2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[18.50-33.95]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Ipanema. This snug, modern restaurant has white and peach-colored walls covered with vivid oil paintings of Rio and Bahia. It's a comfortable place to sample Brazil's exotic cuisine. Feijoada, the national meal---black beans with smoked meats, collard greens, oranges, chili peppers, and a comforting grain called farofa---is good here. And don't miss the great drinks made with cachac[cd]a (Brazilian rum)---batidas (with coconut milk) and caipirinhas. 13 W. 46th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/730--5848. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.
</{3}>

<PRICECATEGORY>2</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[25.95-34.95]</DPRICE>

<TX1>

Churrascaria Plataforma.This sprawling space with a baby grand piano and a setup for live music is a shrine to meat, and best experienced with a group. Order a full  pitcher of caipirinhas (the Brazilian national cocktail) and head for the center of the room, where a tremendous salad bar of greens, vegetables and hot tureens of paella, octopus or daily specials await you. But  exercise restraint. The real show  is yet to begin. Each diner being given a paddle to summon the waiter: red on one side (stop) green on the other (more!). They quickly become useless, since you either will throw caution to the wind and over do it or become color blind. The barrage of lamb, beef, chicken, ham, sausages and innards continues for what seem an eternity. Side dishes include plantian, french fries, rice, yucca flour and a tangy-vinegar sauce. Desserts are served from a cart and are heavy, gooy and overkill. The strong Brazilian coffee is perfect.316 W. 49th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/245--0505. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<{3}><HEAD>Mexican
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[34-41]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Rosa Mexicano. Owner Josefina Howard is serious about her profession, and her authentic restaurant is a delight. The food is carefully executed, including guacamole prepared table-side and a cold seafood platter. There are a number of interesting regional dishes, including duck enchiladas and chicken steamed in beer. The chocolate chili-mousse cake has a real kick. 1063 1st Ave., at 58th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/753--7407. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>17-19.95</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Alamo. The facade mimics the entrance to a ranch, but the scene inside is cosmopolitan. There's an unpretentious main dining room a few steps up, decorated with pinatas and colorful Mexican posters, and an even more comfortable second level, with a brass railing and big comfy booths. You'll enjoy creative riffs on Mexican and Texas-style cooking. Guacamole is chunky and made to order at your table. Several vegetarian dishes stand out, such as chili relleno (green chili pepper stuffed with cheese and batter fried). 304 E. 48th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/759--0590. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Scandinavian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3-4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[55-97]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Aquavit. Although you can dine in the delightful cafe[ac] upstairs for half the price, the striking downstairs room in the late Nelson Rockefeller's town house---with its atrium, Roger Smith kites, and waterfall---is Aquavit. Swedish fare has been stripped of its homeyness and decked out in contemporary garb, with impressive results. Order roasted-lobster salad or the more traditional herring plate as appetizers. Then explore cherry-crusted rack of lamb or an uncommon tea-smoked duck breast. Triangles of gingerbread with mascarpone ice cream or an out-of-the-ordinary cheese plate make stellar desserts. New York's largest selection of aquavits keeps company with the standout wine list. 13 W. 54th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/307--7311. <RES>Reservations essential downstairs</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sat., no dinner Sun.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Seafood
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[55-79]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Manhattan Ocean Club. This sophisticated bilevel restaurant with comfortable seating is embellished with Picasso ceramics from the collection of owner Alan Stillman. Shellfish by the piece, a good starter, is impeccably fresh. Tuna arrives seared and rare inside, with lattice potatoes and a green salsa. Other admirable entre[ac]es may include roasted blackfish with shiitake mushrooms, shallots, and penne pasta, or perfectly grilled swordfish. The warm chocolate tart is luscious. 57 W. 58th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/371--7777. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[55-65]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Oceana. Seafood for the civilized. Neither trendy nor snobby, Oceana is also pretty, with its warm wood decor, contemporary lighting, bright murals, and posters of luxury oceanliners. You can dine upstairs and down as well as in the wine cellar; service is smooth. The kitchen gets high marks for salmon tartare wrapped in smoked salmon, crab cakes, lobster ravioli, and bouillabaisse. The wine list (with more than 100 whites) is first-rate; the white Bordeaux are recommended. The three-course dinner offers good value, as does the six-course tasting menu. 55 E. 54th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/759--5941. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[52-67]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Sea Grill. Famous restaurants with extraordinary views are often suspect when it comes to the food. But this famous restaurant, with a spectacular view of the Rockefeller Center ice rink in winter and captivating patio dining in summer, can stand tall. The kitchen, under the direction of one of Manhattan's master chefs, Ed Brown (of Tropica and Judson Grill), creates some of Manhattan's best seafood dishes. Charred, moist sugarcane shrimp on skewers with buttery rice is a simple composition, prepared with complementing fresh herbs, spices, and a subtle sauce. We applaud the best lime pie this side of the Keys. 19 W. 49th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/332--7610. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>31-34.95</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Docks. The large brass-trimmed bar of this striking, high-ceilinged, art deco bilevel brasserie displays scrupulously fresh shellfish presented on tiered platters. Cooked preparations run the gamut from traditional American to inventive-eclectic. Steamers in beer broth and Maryland crab cakes are generally available as appetizers. For the main course, you can order grilled or fried wolffish, monkfish, snapper, and other seafood, depending on what's fresh that day. Lobster is as good as it gets in Manhattan. 633 3rd Ave., at 40th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/986--8080; 2427 Broadway, at 89th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/724--5588. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Steak
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[53-73]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Morton's. Although famous for its steaks, New York has never seen anything like this branch of Chicago's famous steak house, in a masculine, dimly lit room that's easy on the spirit. Service is enthusiastic, the bar knows how to make a drink, and oh, those steaks and chops, that double-cut prime rib, and those 4[1//2]-pound lobsters! Hash browns and fresh asparagus are also terrific; for dessert, go straight to the cheesecake or the rich chocolate-velvet cake. The wine list offers hundreds of extraordinary reds, and there is an excellent single-malt Scotch list. 551 5th Ave., at 45th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/972--3315; 90 West St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/732--5665. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[47-53]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Pen and Pencil. It's hard to beat this civilized and thoroughly pleasant restaurant with its comfortable bar area, fitted out with leather banquettes, and intimate main dining room, recalling a private club---lunch is particularly pleasant. Here's a steak house where grilled swordfish and sole stand out, and from time to time there's a special menu featuring low-cholesterol buffalo meat. Check with directory assistance, since the restaurant is moving to this new address as we go to press. 150 Central Park South, In The Hampshire House.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/682--8660. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[51-67]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Smith and Wollensky. This archetypal New York--style steak house, with its bold and unabashedly masculine setting, gargantuan portions, and lofty list of wines (strong in red Bordeaux and California cabernets), is one of the best. Meat is dry-aged in-house, and sirloin, porterhouse, and double sirloin arrive cooked to a turn. Order a side of hash browns or cottage fries and creamed or saute[ac]ed spinach, but skip the perfunctory appetizers and desserts. There is a generous selection of single-malt Scotch. The bustling, less-pricey Wollensky's Grill next door has pleasant sidewalk seating in summer. 201 E. 49th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/753--1530; 212/753--0444 for Grill. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends at restaurant</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Vietnamese
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[34.95-47]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Le Colonial. The dining room here comes straight out of Somerset Maugham, with its rattan chairs, potted palms, ceiling fans, shutters, and period photographs. The food, although Westernized, is usually well prepared; start with the superb bahn cuon---steamed Vietnamese ravioli with chicken, shrimp, and mushrooms---and move on to crisp-seared whole snapper with spicy and sour sauce. The sorbets, ice creams, and fruit-based puddings are right on. Don't miss the Vietnamese coffee---strong black brew over a layer of condensed milk. Nirvana in a cup! 149 E. 57th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/752--0808. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{2}><HEAD>Theater District and Carnegie HallIncluded here is the atmospheric "Restaurant Row," technically a grouping of restaurant choices on 46th Street, between 8th and 9th Avenues, and "Hell's Kitchen"  (also known as "Clinton"), another hot section (for the adventurous) that is well worth the block or two stroll for its variety of good food options at reasonable prices.

</{2}><{3}><HEAD>American Casual
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[16-27]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Hard Rock Cafe. This restaurant with the fins of a vintage Cadillac as a marquee is best known for its loud rock music, rock-star memorabilia, and teenyboppers. Truth be told, the food is quite tasty. The pork barbecue, listed as pig sandwich, is as good as you often find in North Carolina. Or try the club sandwich---crispy bacon, roast chicken, lettuce, tomato, and mayo between huge slabs of ice-box bread. Because portions are huge, everything can be split. To avoid waits, go at opening hours and avoid school holidays. 221 W. 57th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/489--6565. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[23-33]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Joe Allen. With its brick walls, dark wood bar, and showbiz posters, it looks like a pub, but the food warrants the smart white tablecloths. The menu has several satisfying offerings: a marvelous meat-loaf sandwich and an exceptional grilled calves' liver, thinly cut and served with creamy mashed potatoes. You might even glimpse a celebrity or two. 26 W. 46th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/581--6464. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>12-27</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Official All Star Cafe. Athletic memorabilia pervades this theme restaurant. You can admire Andre Agassi's ponytail and a room devoted to actor Charlie Sheen's baseball collection, including Babe Ruth's 1927 World Series ring. The stadium-like dining room has a 60-ft ceiling, circled by a miniature blimp on a track, and around its perimeter are some 30 giant video screens playing memorable moments in sports. The huge circular booths may make you feel as if you're sitting inside oversize catchers' mitts. The menu is strictly standard American fare: T-bone steak, homemade corned-beef hash, and burgers (beef, turkey, or vegetable) with a choice of 17 toppings. 1540 Broadway, at 45th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/840--8326. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>10-18</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Film Center Cafe. Customers dine at vintage Formica tables and in cozy booths, surrounded by authentic Art Deco decor, pink neon lights, old radios, film reels, and wall murals of 20th Century Fox, Paramount, and MGM logos. For dinner, your friendly waiter will bring you good diner food, such as chili or meat loaf with soothing mashed potatoes. From 11 [am] to 4 [pm] on Sundays, a limited retro-price menu offers unlimited cocktails, home-style brunch, and a hot cup of java. 635 9th Ave., between 44th and 45th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/262--2525. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>16-27</DPRICE>

<TX2>
Motown Cafe. On three floors, you're surrounded by the history of musical recording. You'll also see the biggest record in the world: a classic 45 that is 27 ft in diameter and revolves on the ceiling. The stairway to the mezzanine is actually a ladder of gold records honoring Motown singers. While the food isn't Grammy material, desserts really rock and roll---the homemade ice cream sandwich plays lead, while a fabulous peach cobbler and sweet potato--pecan pie do great backup. 104 W. 57th St., near 6th Ave.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/581--8030. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[19--26*]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>29-37</DPRICE>

<TX2>
Planet Hollywood. This cafe[ac] is fun; its owners and shareholders include Bruce Willis, Demi Moore, Sylvester Stallone, Keith Barish, and Arnold Schwarzenegger. The walls are full of celebrity handprints outside and movie memorabilia inside; check out the gremlin. Who cares that the place rates a 10 on the decibel scale? The food is adequate; you'll be happiest if you stick with the southwestern-style nachos, the fajitas, and the playful pizzas. 140 W. 57th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/333--7827. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Barbecue
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>14.95-19.95</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Virgil's. This massive roadhouse in the theater district has clever neon and Formica decor. Start perhaps with stuffed jalapenos or buttermilk onion rings with blue-cheese dip. Then go for the "pig out"---a rack of pork ribs, Texas hot links, pulled pork, rack of lamb, chicken, and more. Wash it all down with beer from a good list. 152 W. 44th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/921--9494. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Caribbean
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>16.95-19.95</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Island Spice. This spotless and altogether delightful spot, with green walls and plastic tablecloths, serves some of New York's best Caribbean fare. The kitchen's gastronomic reggae shows up in such dishes as the zesty jerk pork and chicken curry; delicious whole red snapper, pan-fried and then steamed with peppers, onions, and tomatoes; and the tender, curried goat, which you stuff into Indian flat bread---what a terrific sandwich. Brunch is served on Sunday. 402 W. 44th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/765--1737. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Contemporary
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>41-51</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Halcyon. Peacock-green banquettes line the perimeter of the room, dominated by a domed ceiling painted to resemble the sky; looking up, you'll see gold star bursts and an antique brass chandelier. Despite the elaborate setting, the food is refreshingly simple, including such standards as hearts of romaine Caesar salad and roasted rack of lamb. Sunday brunch in the Marketplace in the Sky on the 53rd floor offers one of the best views (and buffets) in town. 151 W. 54th St., in the Rihga Royal Hotel</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/468--8888. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Deli
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>11-19.95</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Carnegie Deli. Although not what it was, this no-nonsense spot is still one of midtown's two best delis, a species distinguished by crowds, noise, impatient service, and jumbo sandwiches. Ask the counterman to hand-slice your corned beef or pastrami; the extra juiciness and superior texture warrant the extra charge. To drink? Try cream soda or celery tonic. 854 7th Ave., between 54th and 55th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/757--2245. <CRCARDS>No credit cards.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>14-19.95</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Stage Deli. One taste of its chopped liver and pickles and you'll know why this monument to corned beef and pastrami, founded in 1936 by Max Asnas, a Russian immigrant, transcends the tourist-trap syndrome. It personifies the New York theater culture. Bossy waiters and regular guests like Milton Berle and Eddie Cantor were legion. Today the waitpersons seem almost genteel, but the sandwiches are more gargantuan than ever. 834 7th Ave., between 53rd and 54th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/245--7850. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Ethiopian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>11.95-18.95</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant. This simple Hell's Kitchen storefront restaurant, named for the month of September, has 25 tables and yellow walls adorned with Ethiopian art. Among the tasty Ethiopian delicacies are Kitfo, similar to steak tartare, which can be ordered raw, rare or well done, and Yebeg Alecha, which consists of tender pieces of lamb, marinated in Ethiopian butter (flavored with curry, rosemary, and a special herb called kosart) and then saute[ac]ed with fresh ginger and a bit more curry. 468 W. 47th St., off 10th Ave.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/664--0520. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>French
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>69-89</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Le Bernardin. Since 1986, this French seafood restaurant has been a trendsetter with inventive fish creations carefully prepared. The plush, expansive, and softly lit teak-paneled room---with its well-spaced tables, huge bouquets of flowers, late-19th-century French oil paintings, and low noise level---is as popular as ever. Service is impeccable, and the food can still dazzle, with such recommended offerings as Spanish mackerel tartare with osetra caviar, red snapper in sherry-wine vinaigrette, and some of the finest desserts in town. The wine list is strong on white Burgundies. 155 W. 51st St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/489--1515. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>73-99</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Jean-Georges.Another one of the most awaited  restaurant openings of 1997  the name, refers to celebrity-chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten of JoJo and Vong. Adam Tihany's minimalist design includes a cafe and lounge with a 19-foot zinc bar, low-backed freestanding leather banquettes and Anigre doors. There are hand-laid mosaics of white marble and terrazzo, a  coffered ceiling and three silver-leaf screens that frame the exhibition kitchen. Taupe, ecru and silver colors create warmth in the high-ceilinged main dining room with its floor to ceiling windows on three sides and Tihany-designed series of Bernardaud china plates in geometric patterns of silver and gray. Service is luxurious, with table-side plating to enhance the chefs love-affair with fresh herbs. The wine list is beautifully selected with some wonderful Alsatian finds and one would search the culinary-universe in vain to discover a more ethereal dish than sea scallops in a caper-raisin emulsion with caramelized cauliflower or the spring garlic soup with thyme, with its accompaniment of little nuggets of boned, sauteed frog's legs.  For dessert, there's a breathtakingly simple strawberry "water." or a thin rhubarb tart with brown sugar and rhubarb "creme galcee[ac]." 1 Central Park West.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/299--3900. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket and tie</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun.</CLOSED>.

<DPRICE>[77-177]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Les Ce[ac]le[ac]brite[ac]s. From the moon-shaped banquettes and the plush red carpets to the careful lighting and paintings by celebrity artists, this intimate restaurant in the Essex House hotel is definitely lavish. The glassed-in kitchen, discretely hidden by a painting on canvas (of the fabled French ocean liner the Normandy), opens occasionally to reveal executive chef Christian Delouvrier busily preparing such specialties as a playful foie-gras burger, in which Granny Smith apple slices replace bread and elegant goose-liver subs for beef. The six-item tasting dinner showcases his strengths. The wine list is extensive (and expensive), but there is also a good selection by the glass. 160 Central Park S</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/484--5113. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket and tie</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun.--Mon. No lunch</CLOSED>.

<DPRICE>[55-97]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Le Cirque 2000.The most anticipated restaurant of the decade, Le Cirque 2,000, is accessed through a magical courtyard and gilded doors, where one ascends carpeted-stairs to enter this Mecca of celebrities, the rich, the powerful and the would-like-to-bes. Really three separate experiences, one my enjoy the whimsical, wonderful decor of Adam Tihany with earthy-tripe or bargain-priced fresh, Beluga caviar at the bar or in one of the yin/yang dining rooms---one plush and elegantly-sedate  (the gold-room), with velvet modernistic banquettes the other (the red room & grill) sprightly and spiffy with a red an gold motif. Both in the historic Villard House, with its paneled walls and breathtaking ceiling. In either, you'll also experience New York's only grand luxe dining experience. Stars of the ring: Sirio Maccioni and his sons Mario, Marco and Mauro, a brilliant young wine director Ralph Hersom, executive chef Sootha Khunn and pastry chef Jacques Torres. Don't miss the Thursday special, "Bollito Misto"  (an aromatic mix of meats, sausage, brains, root vegetables and contrasting condiments and course salt) and the dessert "drum roll"  (apricot and strawberry parfait).455 Madison Ave., betw 50th & 51st Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/794--9292. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket and tie</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun.</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>50-81</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Petrossian. This Art Deco caviar bar and restaurant is like no other New York dining spot, with its fur-trimmed banquettes, granite bar, profusion of marble, and contributions of Erte[ac] and Lalique. You'll probably want to start with gobs of fresh caviar: beluga (the largest egg and most popular with Americans), Sevruga (smaller and a favorite of the British), or osetra (yellowish and highly prized by Russians on buttered toast or blini, a puffy pancake), with no competing garnishes. Petrossian offers an outstanding prix-fixe dinner (one of the world's great bargains in luxury dining) all evening; the supplement for 30 grams of sevruga is relatively small. You may drink vodka with the caviar or champagne throughout. 182 W. 58th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/245--2214. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2--3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>29-47</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Cafe[ac] Botanica. With its high ceilings, wicker chairs, soft-green tablecloths, and ravishing views of Central Park, this glorious cafe[ac], airy as a country garden, serves inventive and elegant food. The pretheater dinner is an exceptional value. You'll find the service neither intimidating nor overbearing, and the wine list is priced fairly. If you can't make it for dinner, try the equally splendid fixed-price lunch or Sunday brunch. 160 Central Park S</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/484--5120. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>29-34.95</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Jean Lafitte. Owned by Eric Demarchelier (of the successful Le Select and Demarchelier), this popular spot has an attractively priced prix-fixe menu. The a la carte menu also lists Creole dishes, in deference to the Jean Lafitte--New Orleans connection. The ambience and decor, with lots of wood, mirrors, brass railings, and Art Nouveau tulip-shaped lighting fixtures, is straight out of Paris. You'll also welcome the sprightly bar scene. 68 W. 58th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/751--2323. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Greek
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1--2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>14-24.95</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Uncle Nick's. At this inexpensive taberna, you dine in a long room, with a navy-blue pipe-lined tin ceiling, an exposed kitchen, and a wood floor. Note the appetizing displays of whole red snapper, porgy, and striped bass. Uncle Nick's owners, Tony and Mike Vanatakis, prepare each fish selection with simplicity and care. Be sure to try as many of the excellent appetizers as your tummy can handle, including crispy fried smelts, tender grilled baby octopus, marvelous sweetbreads, and giant lima beans with tomatoes and herbs. 747 9th Ave., between 50th and 51st Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/245--7992. <CRCARDS>MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Indian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>37-41</DPRICE>

<TX2>

<DPRICE>[34-47]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Shaan. The name of this restaurant means "pride" in Hindi, and owners Victor Khubani and Bhushan Arora have good reason to be proud of their elegant palace with a deep-burgundy marquee, hand-carved doors, Italian and Portuguese marble, hand-embroidered tapestries, and roomy banquettes. The spicing in the unusual dishes ranges from subtle to fiery. The Bengali-born chef prepares splendid tandoori lobster, rack of lamb, or quail, which are marinated in yogurt and spices and cooked in a clay oven. 57 W. 48th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/977--8400. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Italian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>37-55</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Barbetta. New York's oldest restaurant (opened in 1906) still operated by its founding family was one of the first to produce northern Italian food in America, and it retains its simplicity and fidelity to tradition. This island of civility in two distinguished, antiques-furnished town houses has an enchanting garden, verdant with century-old trees. The carne cruda (hand-chopped raw veal with lemon juice and olive oil) and handmade agnolotti (pasta cut into small round pieces, stuffed with meat or vegetables, and folded in half like turnovers) are superb. Besides the well-priced, carefully selected short wine list, there is a long version with many bottles dating from 1880. 321 W. 46th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/246--9171. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Mon.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>62--141</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Palio. Named after the 800-year-old Italian horse race that celebrates the Assumption of the Virgin, this exceptional restaurant has an impressive 13-ft mural by Sandro Chia. Your name is discretely requested as you're ushered to an elevator and the second-floor dining room with light oak paneling and luxuriously spaced tables set with Frette linen and Riedel crystal. Food and service to match such a high tone must be unblemished, and Palio meets the challenge. Here you'll experience authentic Italian cuisine, from a regional six-course menu from Siena to one based on aged balsamic vinegar. The wine selection and service are commensurate with the posh setting. 151 W. 51st St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/245--4850. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket and tie</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>59-121</DPRICE>

<TX2>

San Domenico. Owner Tony May has raised America's consciousness of the Italian cucina. Soft egg ravioli with truffle butter in addition to loin of veal in smoked-bacon cream sauce and polenta nera (chocolate hazelnut dessert souffle[ac]) are hardly run of the mill offerings, and the private villa-like setting, with terra-cotta floors, sumptuous leather chairs, and lots of warm, earthy hues, is understated and elegant. The huge wine list showcases Italy's great vintages. Your tab drops if you stick to prix-fixe dinners, especially on Sunday; throw caution to the wind, and you may have to thumb a ride home. 240 Central Park S</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/265--5959. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket and tie required except on Sun.</DRESS> <CRCARDS>AE, MC, DC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>48-88</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Osteria del Circo. A monumental polished wood bar dominates the entrance to this festive restaurant, run by the Maccioni family (owners of Le Cirque). A circus atmosphere has been created by architect Adam Tihany, thanks to the center pillar with large monkeys doing tricks, orange and red flags suspended from the high ceiling alongside a ropelike ladder, and large metallic statues floating over the 2 million open mosaic kitchen. The signature Pizza Pazza Circo (Crazy Pizza) has a delicate layer of mascarpone cheese and tomato, topped with thin prosciutto di Parma. Mama Egi's Ravioli is filled with herbed spinach in a delicate sage sauce. Don't miss the Circo Cappuccino Cup, which is actually espresso mousse served in a coffee cup. 120 W. 55th St., off 6th Ave.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/265--3636. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sun.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>48-59</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Remi. This stylish Italian restaurant---designed by architect Adam Tihany, who co-owns it with chef Francesco Antonucci---is striking with its nautical decor, skylighted open atrium-garden, blue-and-white-striped banquettes, Venetian-glass chandeliers, and soaring room-length mural of Venice by Paulin Paris. The accompanying contemporary Venetian cuisine is beautifully presented. Fresh sardines make a lovely beginning with their contrasting sweet-and-sour onion garnish, and you can't go wrong with the expertly prepared rack of lamb or any of the wonderful desserts. 145 W. 53rd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/581--4242. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>34.95-49</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Lattanzi Ristorante. Although not kosher, the cuisine here derives from the Jewish ghetto with such dishes as baby artichokes flattened like a pancake and parchment-fried, so that even the leaves are edible. Noteworthy pastas include homemade noodles with artichoke sauce and Pecorino cheese. Breads are remarkable, especially a huge, flat unleavened sheet of homemade matzo and the garlicky bread sticks. Don't ignore the homemade napoleon. You'll dine in an elegant town house with several exposed-brick rooms, candles, flowers, and one of Manhattan's most romantic gardens. 361 W. 46th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/315--0980. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE,. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>42-54</DPRICE>

<TX2>

[Trattoria Dell'Arte. This popular trattoria near Carnegie Hall still displays the controversial oversize renderings of body parts, alongside portraits of Italian artists, in its three dining rooms. But you'll probably be more interested in the mouthwatering antipasti on the bar and the tasty pasta, pizza, hot focaccia sandwiches, and grilled double veal chop, served with a mountain of shoestring potatoes. The cannoli is wonderful. Check out the great wine list and flavored grappas. 900 7th Ave., between 56th and 57th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/245--9800. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>18-34</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Frico Bar. Owned by Lidia Bastianich of Felidia and son Joseph of Becco, this casual place serves an array of tempting snacks ranging from thin-crust pizza to the house specialty, frico, a crustless pizza of griddle-crisped cheese stuffed with potatoes and vegetables. As in the Friulian countryside, wine comes on tap, along with 10 excellent beers. The restaurant has an engaging decor: tile floors and a moon and star logo displayed on the attractive wooden tables. 402 W. 43rd St., off 9th Ave.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/564--7272. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>18-31</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Osteria al Droge. Warm yellow walls and a two-tiered room with a charming balcony, long mahogany bar, colorful framed posters, and bare oak family tables conjure Tuscany in Times Square. You are bound to enjoy thin-crusted pizza with mozzarella, fresh tomatoes, arugula, and prosciutto and marvelous risottos. Leave room for warm pecan tart and cinnamon ice cream. 142 W. 44th St.,</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/944--3643. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>12-24</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Bar NineThe offbeat look is appealing with its three dining areas, quirky collection of mixed-period antiques and sofas, wonderful mix-matched chandeliers, wall memorabilia, saluting World War I servicemen, (all by name).  Here is the place for an attractive weekend brunch and, in the evenings, a deejay spins contemporary music till the wee hours. Owner, John Kouros, is a genial host. and keeps the food is simple---mostly American, with European overtones. Warm bread arrives with olive oil, salt, red and black pepper and a sprig of fresh rosemary to use as a brush. There's a good Caesar salad and sauteed skate (a special), is a classy dish and done to perfection. 809 Ninth Ave.</ADDRESS><PHONE>212/399--9336.<CRCARDS>AE, MC, Visa 


<DPRICE>[11-24.95]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Mangia e Bevi. This down-to-earth slice of Naples features murals of Italy, ceiling fans, checkered tablecloths, an open kitchen, and a wood-burning oven. Pizza fans are kept happy (try the white four-cheese pizza), and there's also good bread to smear with virgin olive oil and focaccia with herb-marinated Mediterranean olives. Among the bargain-priced pasta, perhaps try rigatoni Amatriciana---brimming with homemade tomato sauce, Italian bacon, and spices. Waiters in T-shirts are helpful as the music blares and customers slap tambourines and join in the fun. 800 9th Ave., at 53rd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/956--3976. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1-2</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[15-29]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

AmaroneNamed after the lush Italian red wine, this unpretentious trattoria is arguably the best Italian-rep on the Hell's Kitchen-aka-Clinton strip. Managed by Mauro Chiappe (Portico), even the antipasti is good, not just pretty, as in so many storefront pasta-parlors. Inquire about such delectable specials as the chef's grandmother's country-style caviatelli with sausage, carrots and potatoes, rabbit cacciatore. If you leave before sampling the homemade gelato, oozing out of a crispy chocolate cup, and looking like a giant cupcake, you'll be sorry. The wine list is noteworthy. 686 Ninth Ave.</ADDRESS><PHONE>212/245--6060<CRCARDS>



</{3}>
<HEAD>Kosher
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>37-41</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Le Marais. The appetizing display of raw meats and terrines at the entrance and the bare wood floors may remind you of a Parisian bistro. Tables covered with butcher paper, French wall posters, and maroon banquettes reinforce that image. Yet the clientele (mostly male) is strictly kosher. A cold terrine de boeuf en gele[ac]e fac[cd]on pot au feu (marinated short ribs) starts the meal on the right note, and rib steak for two is cooked to a turn, tender, and juicy. The accompanying fries are perfect. 150 W. 46th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/869--0900. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>No dinner Fri., no lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<{3}><HEAD>Latin
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2--3]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>29-39</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Victor's Cafe[ac] 52. This Technicolor Cuban restaurant has big high-back booths, a tile floor, and a raised back room with skylight. The blasting Latin American music and an atmosphere harking back to movie musicals set in old Havana seem not to bode well for serious dining. But fear not---the food is often fine, a contemporary transcription of Cuban, Puerto Rican, and Latino signature dishes. 236 W. 52nd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/586--7714. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>15-19.95</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Pomaire. Named after a small village renowned for its pottery (in which many of the dishes are served), this uncommon restaurant with exposed brick, handmade rugs, a faux skylight, and attractive paintings sometimes offers live music. The menu lists several intriguing dinner options, such as pastel de choclo, a casserole of beef, olives, chicken, onions, and egg that is covered with a corn puree, dusted with sugar, and baked in a clay pot. Leave room for torta de mil hojas---leaves of pastry layered with caramel. 371 W. 46th St., off 9th Ave.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/956--3056. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}>
<{3}><HEAD>Russian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2-4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>30-85</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Firebird.A prerevolutionary Russian restaurant that has beat the Bouley/LeRoy team and captured the Russian Tearoom celebrity crowd with its renovation of two brownstones to emulate a St. Petersburg mansion. There are eight individually decorated dining rooms, objets d'art,  period antiques and authentic Russian-regional cuisine. From caviar and zakuska (Russian appetizers) to tea with cherry preserves in glasses and signature desserts (one patterned after the Kremlin). Don't fail to sample the extraordinary vodka selection, nor to inquire about the attractively priced pre-theater special selection of zakuska.365 W. 46th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/586--0244. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}>
<{3}><HEAD>Southwestern
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2-3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>32-49</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Tapika. The design of the relaxed dining room by architect David Rockwell pays a fanciful tribute to the American West: adobe-brown walls, colored picket fencing around the windows, faux pony-skin bar stools, branded wood, and steel light fixtures with Native American cutout designs. Chef David Walzog expertly reinvents southwestern cuisine with such dishes as barbecued short ribs falling off the bone, wild-mushroom tamale, and incendiary yet scrumptious ground-vegetable chili rellenos served with smoked tomato salsa and crumpled cheese. The margaritas are terrific. 950 8th Ave., at 56th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/397--3737. <CRCARDS>DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Steak
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[44]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[48-67]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Ben Benson's. Not only are steaks, chops, and accompaniments first-rate here, there is also a real chef in the kitchen. Witness such contemporary steak-house fare as cold lobster cocktail and Maryland crab cakes, steaks, chops, and the fabulous prime rib, as well as such excellent daily specials as Friday's crusted fish hash. Don't miss the horseradish mashed potatoes or the excellent home fries. The wine list improves with each visit. This convivial spot has a masculine interior---brass plaques inscribed with names of celebrities, framed pictures of animals and game birds. 123 W. 52nd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/581--8888. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[55-63]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Gallagher's. The most casual of New York steak houses, with checkered tablecloths and photos of sports greats on the walls, Gallagher's has almost no pretensions and nothing to hide. Look for the meat-aging room, visible through the window. You won't be disappointed with the famous aged sirloin steaks, oversize lobsters, or any of the fabulous potato dishes (try the O'Brien with its sweet pepper and onion flavor). Don't miss the creamy rice pudding. 228 W. 52nd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/245--5336. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[55-70]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Ruth's Chris. Manhattan's genteel addition to this group of more than 40 so-named restaurants around the world is giving other steak houses around town a run for their money. With its impressionistic oil paintings, dark red walls, and crisp white napery on well-spaced tables, it's much more inviting than its location at the base of a nondescript office tower might suggest. Moreover, the steaks and chops, served sizzling in butter unless you specify otherwise, are tops. The menu defines degrees of doneness according to temperature and color, and the kitchen gives you just what you request. 148 W. 51st St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/245--9600. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{2}><HEAD>Upper East SideThe silk stock district, and while you can be sure to find a plethora of overpriced stuffy rooms with tables that are too close and food that is just not good enough, here are some really wonderful restaurants peppered with small storefront cafes and trattorias with passable pastas at surprisingly low prices. 

</{2}><{3}><HEAD>American Casual
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[43-59]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Lobster Club. This two-story town-house restaurant resembles a New England inn with its bleached-wood beamed ceilings, inlaid mosaic floors, and more formal second floor with a fireplace, vaulted ceiling, and chandelier with flickering candles. Celebrity-chef Anne Rosenzweig has created an appealing menu; for instance, the signature lobster club sandwich, a luxurious play on a classic dish, is accompanied by plantain chips. The wine list has a choice of 9 to 12 bottles in various price ranges. 24 E. 80th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/249--6500. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sun.</CLOSED>

<MAP>[1fp]1-page map: Uptown Manhattan Dining[1fp]</MAP>

<PRICECATEGORY>[1--2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[19-34]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Hi-Life Restaurant and Lounge. Young East Siders wait in line to sit down at one of the spacious half-moon-shaped booths at this bilevel Art Deco cafe[ac]. The draw? Soothing prices, huge portions, and some of the best martinis in town. Join the crowd and polish off sushi, or something from the raw bar, before you proceed to the filet mignon, sliced and served with potato salad or heaping bowls of pad thai noodles with chicken or shrimp. Hi-Life's West Side location serves similar fare (477 Amsterdam Ave., at 83rd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/787--7199). 1340 1st Ave., at 72nd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/249--3600. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>11--24.75</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Serendipity 3. This whimsical store-cum-cafe[ac] has been producing excellent burgers, sandwiches, salads, and other interesting if overly complicated plates since 1954. But most people come for the fantasy sundaes---huge, naughty, and decadent. You'll love the thick frozen hot chocolate. 225 E. 60th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/838--3531. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <MISC>BYOB</MISC>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>14.95-23.75</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Seventh Regiment Mess and Bar. The fourth floor of the historic Seventh Regiment Armory is home to this unusual restaurant with high ceilings, wooden beams, and appropriately militaristic motifs. You won't find fancy cooking---just homey food, such as chicken a la king, pork chops, roast beef, and mustardy deviled beef bones---at rock-bottom prices. 643 Park Ave., at 66th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/744--4107. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun.--Mon. No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Chinese
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[16.95-27.75]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Evergreen Cafe. Come here for the Chinatown-style dumplings (try asparagus or seafood fillings) and the full range of noodle and rice dishes, such as Singapore-style curry-flavored noodles or diced chicken in salted fish-flavor fried rice. This attractive restaurant has blond wood tables, ceiling fans, and an illuminated emerald sculpture; the back dining room tends to be more quiet. 1288 1st Ave., at 69th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/744--3266. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Contemporary
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>62-79</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Aureole. Charles Palmer's fashionable restaurant, with its alluring bas-reliefs, baskets of dried flowers, and swank town-house location, is one of the town's toughest reservations. Appetizers are generally trustworthy; desserts are visual masterpieces. Wine prices are high, and the ventilation and ambience upstairs are sub-par. 34 E. 61st St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/319--1660. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[46-71]</DPRICE>

<TX2>
Decade. Enjoy Swing and Hustle dancing and fine dining in a sophisticated setting. There's a sort-of-dress-code, where the jacket rule is loosely enforced.The crowd does not welcome strangers with open arms at this upscale dinner, dance, cigar, and wine establishment dedicated to the state of mind and spirit of the '60s and '70s. Sophisticated dining on two floors, dancing to music from 1959 to 1979, one of the largest wine and spirit vaults in NYC, and a walk-in humidor. Enjoy over 100 different cigars from all over the world in a NASA-engineered "smokeless" smoking environment. The upstairs dining room is romantic and there's a real chef in the kitchen, a "chef's table" as well and an ever-changing tasting menu. 1117st Ave., between 61st and 62nd Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/835--5979. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.


<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>54-69.60</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Park Avenue Cafe. American folk art, antique toys, and sheaves of dried wheat decorate this unpretentious pacesetter. The Flag Room, to the left of the bar, is more sedate. David Burke's imaginative presentations are often whimsical. Salmon is cured like pastrami and arrives on a marble slab, with warm corn blini (pancakes), while the signature swordfish "chop" comes dressed with a numbered tag (save the tag, sign the book, and you may win an all-inclusive holiday). The pastry chef's masterpieces include a milk-chocolate creme bru[cx]le[ac]e and "opera in the park," a cake decorated to mimic Central Park. 100 E. 63rd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/644--1900. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>55-59.90</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Sign of the Dove. Skylights, stunning floral arrangements, brick arches, and piano music lend a distinctive character to each of the dining rooms here, some of the prettiest in town. From Andrew D'Amico's distinguished kitchen, don't miss the singular preparations of tuna (at times in aromatic broth with Asian vegetables), the low-cholesterol venison dish, or the omnipresent warm chocolate souffle[ac] cake with house-made vanilla ice cream. Prix-fixe menus put this place squarely among the city's best famous-restaurant values. 1110 3rd Ave., at 65th St.  At press time, management has announced a move, so check before booking.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/861--8080. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Mon.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[34.95-57]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Matthew's. This popular cafe[ac] is airy and attractive with its white shutters, ceiling fans, rattan chairs, jumbo potted plants, and warm colors. Young chef Matthew Kenney has an eclectic contemporary style. You'll relish the tuna tartare (more coarsely chopped here than in most other new American restaurants), served with a Mediterranean-green-olive condiment. There's also a terrific Moroccan-spiced lamb shank with dried fruits and couscous, and a soft-centered chocolate hazelnut cake that makes life worth living. 1030 3rd Ave., at 61st St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/838--4343. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Eastern European
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[31-34.95]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Red Tulip. With the gypsy violins and high-back wooden booths, the atmosphere is early Budapest (via MGM), heavy on the gemutlichkeit. The food is a bit more contemporary; try the celebrated chicken paprika with egg dumplings, the crispy roast goose, the stuffed cabbage, or the sausage with onions, green peppers, and tomato sauce. Palacsinta (crepes) with assorted fillings are a graceful example of this time-honored dessert. 439 E. 75th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/734--4893. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Mon.--Tues. No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>French
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>61-81</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Cafe[ac] Pierre. The long room is a jewel, with its ornate mirrors, overhead cloud murals, and tables fitted with gold lame[ac] skirts under crisp white cloths. The cosmopolitan cuisine gets high marks as does the selection of glass wines. You can have coffee or an after-dinner drink at the sophisticated piano bar, where there's dancing Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights. 2 E. 61st St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/940--8195. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket and tie</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>71-131</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Daniel. At Daniel Boulud's 1.9 million restaurant, lavish flower arrangements, antique mirrors, and wall-to-wall celebrities adorn the main dining room, with its exquisite table settings by Limoges, gold-tinted walls, and red-checked banquettes. The cuisine (at once contemporary and classic) is among the best in New York. Note the uncommon tuna tartare, with a touch of curry, and the signature black sea bass, wrapped in a crispy potato shell. Spoil yourself with the all-chocolate or all-fruit dessert menu. 20 E. 76th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/288--0033. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, D, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Mon.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3--4]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>59-69</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Arcadia. Owned by celebrity chef Anne Rosenzweig, a small bar precedes the main dining room, which is small and romantic with its soft lighting, plum banquettes, chair backs outfitted in patterned slipcovers, and a mural devoted to the seasons. Service is first-rate. Signature dishes include a delicious appetizer of four corn cakes with creme frai[cx]che and caviars (yellow and black); house-smoked lobster cooked with tarragon butter; and a warm chocolate brioche-based bread pudding with brandy custard sauce. The wine list is excellent, if expensive, and there's a special reserve list with "historic bottles" of old California. 21 E. 62nd St., off Madison Ave.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/223--2900. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>52-57</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Jo Jo. New York's most fashionable bistro has an upstairs dining area with burgundy banquettes, a black-and-white tile floor, and the obligatory etched-glass and gilt-edge mirrors. Celebrity-chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten follows a culinary approach that is personal (French with Asian accents), healthy (infused oils, juices, and reduction rather than heavy sauces), and classic (hardy bistro dishes freely updated). Goat-cheese-and-potato terrine is typical of Vongerichten's culinary range, as are the signature shrimp in spiced-carrot juice and Thai lime leaves, and the simple chicken roasted with ginger, green olives, and ginger juice, accompanied by chickpea-tahini fritters. 160 E. 64th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/223--5656. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>


<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[48-57]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

L'Absinthe. The wonderful Art Nouveau bistro decor features etched glass, huge gilt-framed mirrors, tile floors, and a few sidewalk tables. Chef-owner Jean-Michel Bergougnoux takes shellfish and cheese seriously, and they are both beautifully presented. Highlights on the menu include a fine foie gras terrine, slow-braised beef with carrots, poached free-range chicken in truffle broth, and a thin, crisp apple tart or warm chocolate cake. 227 E. 67th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/794--4950. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[2--3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>34-47</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Ferrier. There are a few tables at its sidewalk cafe[ac] in the summer, but any time of the year, this very popular bistro will give you some idea of how tinned sardines must feel. So tuck in your tummy and turn up your hearing aid (the noise level tests one's tolerance for audio excess). The service and reception are so friendly and the food so delicious and copious you won't even mind the relatively high prices. Savor steak au poivre, grilled tuna Ferrier, and profiteroles. Alas, the wine list is not up to par. 29 E. 65th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/772--9000. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.


<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>35-47</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Payard Patisserie.Pastry chef Francois Payard and chef-co-owner Daniel Boulud of the esteemed Restaurant Daniel have teamed up to open Payard Patisserie & Bistro. With a knockout design by David Rockwell, the high ceiling room has mahogany woodwork, mirrors with Belle Epoque gilded frames, and dramatic blown glass lighting fixtures. The three main areas, a pastry shop open from 7 in the morning, the bistro and mezzanine, offer a variety of dining experiences. Dinner in the charming bistro might begin with an adverturous salad of pig's-feet fritters and baby French-style green beans or  fresh terrine of homemade foie gras and go on to such notable entrees as a melt-in-your-mouth lamb shank with baby artichokes and eggplant or delicious caramelized sweetbreads with orange, rosemary, carrots and turnip confit. The homemade French fries are exceptional and the wine list is short and to the point. Expectably, desserts are extraordinary, and while tarts, souffle[ac]s and cakes are everything they should be,  a simple almond-crusted croissant steals the pastry cart.1032 Lexington Ave., betw 73rd & 74th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/717--5252. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>


<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>45-57</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Trois Jean. This captivating two level restaurant offers a
charming Parisian cafe atmosphere downstairs and  an open kitchen in back. Upstairs is an a more formal bistro-room, straight out of a French movie with eye-catching paintings. The food blends traditional bistro classics with contemporary adaptations. What makes Trois Jean one of the most
exciting bistros is its special menu offerings. There's  a different special or "plat du jour" each day. Monday it's the North African specialty couscous, Tuesday choucroute or Alsatian saurkraut with smoked meats,  Wednesday pot-au-feu, that delectable French boiled beef in the pot, Thursday blanquette de veau or veal in white wine and cream,  Friday lobster bouillabaisse, the sultry seafood stew of Marsailles, Saturday boef Bourguignon or beef stewed in red wine and Sunday gigot d'agneau or roast leg of lamb. Late fall through early December, there is a special white and black truffle menu. Desserts are all wonderful---especially the signature chocolate pyramid. 154 E. 79th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/988--4858. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Italian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>79-157.50</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Parioli Romanissimo. In a splendid town house, this special restaurant is one of Manhattan's last bastions of civility. You enter through a small bar and make your way down a long corridor, where you'll see one of New York's most astounding selections of imported cheese. The exquisite main dining area overlooking an enclosed garden room features a marble fireplace, the original plaster-molded ceiling, and spacious tables. Pasta is always wonderful here, as are such graceful offerings as saute[ac]ed sea scallops seared in peppercorns, in a discreet watercress sauce, and roasted rack of young lamb, marinated in spicy oil, herbs, and garlic. The wine list showcases jewels from Italy, France, and California, and 12 kinds of tea are available, presented in apothecary jars. 24 E. 81st St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/288--2391. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[55-59.90]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Coco Pazzo. In one of New York's celebrity-spotting restaurants, the main dining room is aglow with ecru walls, yellow tablecloths, colorful murals, and huge urns of flowers. All pastas and risottos are splendid, and it's hard to resist the maccheroncini al pepolino---rectangles of fresh egg pasta in a rich tomato sauce with thyme and grated aged Pecorino cheese. If push comes to shove (or waistline challenges impulse), the entre[ac]e of choice is the roasted whole fish of the day. Cros ta di frutta fresca (open-faced fruit tart) changes its face often but never disappoints. 23 E. 74th St. (Other clones have emerged in the Lincoln Center area, 56 W. 56th St. and in the Theater District at 235 W. 46th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/794--0205. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[45-51]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Nino's. Lobster fra diablo, finished in the old-world style in a chafing dish and served on a bed of perfect linguini, is a specialty at this popular Italian restaurant with its lively piano bar, sienna walls hung with large framed paintings, and breathtaking floral arrangements. And even fresh fruit becomes an uncommon dessert when it's artistically arranged on an ice sculpture, preceding beautiful espresso-macchiato. 1354 1st Ave., between 72nd and 73rd Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/988--0002. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. No lunch.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Mexican
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2--3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[33-37]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Zocalo. Come here for fabulous margaritas, lovely dips of warm tomatillo (green tomato), tomato chipotle (smoked chili), pico de gallo (raw onion-tomato salsa), and a chunky guacamole beautifully presented in the traditional molcajete (lava-rock utensil). This attractive Mexican restaurant has an inviting bar area and a long main dining room with burnt-orange and blue walls. Among the surprising dishes are grilled clams in a banana-leaf wrapping with a peanut-tomato sauce and chocolate sorbet laced with jalapeno peppers. 174 82nd St., off 3rd Ave.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/717--7772. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Middle Eastern
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>15-19</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Afghan Kebab House 2. At this cavelike Afghan restaurant, scenic posters, copper platters, and Afghan rugs cover the walls. Newcomers to this cuisine should enjoy the aushak or boiled dumplings, filled with scallions, herbs, and spices and topped with yogurt; the spiced half-chicken, marinated in fresh grated spices and hot peppers; and the vegetable combination plate. 1345 2nd Ave., between 70th and 71st Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/517--2776. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <MISC>BYOB</MISC>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1--2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>24-29</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Persepolis. Manhattan's only authentic Persian restaurant has been artfully decorated with smoked-glass mirrors, huge globe light fixtures, and carpeted banquettes. Make an effort to order as many appetizers as you can handle, and don't omit baba ghanoush, torshi (pickled carrots, eggplant, celery, garlic, and parsley), and the olive salad. The Persepolis kebab (filet mignon, chopped steak, and chicken) on skewers is a good example of this delicate and choice cuisine. 1423 2nd Ave., between 74th and 75th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/535--1100. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Pizza
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1--2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>10.95-27</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Sofia Fabulous Pizza. Mediterranean-colored friezes grace this trendy cafe[ac] with wine racks, a vaulted ceiling, and wall sconces made of Japanese paper. Here you'll sample the best pizza and variations on focaccia in Manhattan. In the breathtaking thin-crust pizza, prepared with filtered water to resemble the dough of Naples, Sofia uses mozzarella made daily with fresh milk. For a singular treat, try the mashed potatoes slathered with homemade tomato sauce and Parmesan cheese and then baked in the oven. 1022 Madison Ave., near 79th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/734--2676. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Southwestern
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[36-47]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Arizona 206. Santa Fe meets Manhattan at this seemingly casual eatery, which also incorporates the less-expensive adjacent Arizona Cafe[ac]. There's a cozy nook with a working fireplace as you enter and an inviting bar with superb margaritas, 18 premium tequilas, 22 microbrewery beers, and 11 wines by the glass. Stucco walls mimic an adobe hut, and colorful Native American prints cover the chair cushions. But no Mojave truck stop aspired to serving cuisine so urbane and inventive, such as the lipstick chili relleno, a seasonal chili of crab, fresh corn, carrot-ginger butter, black beans, and habanera sauce, which bursts with flavor. The lobster tamale stuffed with diced meat, wild mushrooms, chili, and cactus is another wonder. 206 E. 60th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/838--0440. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sun.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Steak
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[48-59]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Manhattan Grille]. You enter this steak house through a bronze doorway that belonged to the old Biltmore hotel. Cut flowers, Art Deco chandeliers, Persian carpets, and deep hunter-green upholstery are a far cry from the rush-and-crush atmosphere of most of its competitors. Steaks are among the best in town. And don't overlook the well-prepared seafood dishes, Lyonnaise potatoes, and some savory Italian specialties. Sunday brunch is a pleasure. 1161 1st Ave., between 63rd and 64th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/888--6556. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>52-75</DPRICE>
<TX2>

<DPRICE>[55-87.40]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Post House. Superior grilling and first-rate ingredients are only half the appeal. Good service, inventive daily specials, and the inordinately comfortable main dining room, with leather armchairs, capacious tables, and parquet floor, complete the story. Triple lamb chops are prima, Caesar salad perfection. The signature chocolate box---Belgian chocolate filled with white and dark chocolate mousse---may be copied by others but not duplicated. The wine list is vast and beautifully organized, including the "Wine Library" (wines at least 10 years old) and "California Cache" (California wines unavailable elsewhere). 28 E. 63rd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/935--2888. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.</CLOSED>


</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Thai
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[19-29]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Boonthai. At this mirrored, softly lit charmer with its pretty paintings, crisply set tables, and handsome breakfront, Julie, the owner, greets you warmly. Your dining experience can be tempered to your taste. If you like your food hot, sample the deep-fried whole fish with chili sauce. Or order the chicken in not-so-spicy masman (red Muslim curry) sauce, the pad thai, or the obliging deep-fried duck. 1393A 2nd Ave., between 72nd and 73rd Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/249--8484. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekends</CLOSED>.


</{3}><{2}><HEAD>Lincoln CenterThe cultural center of the West Side, restaurants here are improving each year, but still (with a few exceptions like Picholine) aren't the areas drawing point.

</{2}><{3}><HEAD>American Casual
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2--3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>34-45</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Vince and Eddie's. This bucolic restaurant offers realistic prices, generous portions, and friendly service. It encompasses a series of small rooms and a seasonal garden patterned on a country inn. Executive chef Scott Campbell's new-American fare is always a pleasure. Lamb shank with dried cherries and mashed turnips has deservedly become a classic. Save room for the magnificent desserts: Sorbets, ice creams, and even humble cobblers take on a new dimension. 70 W. 68th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/721--0068. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[23-31]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Lincoln Tavern. At this classic pub with high ceilings, wood walls, leather banquettes, and vintage black-and-white photographs, you have a good choice of American entre[ac]es, typified by chicken quesadilla with fresh roasted corn and jalapeno jack cheese, braised lamb shank with seasonal vegetables, and a chocolate macadamia-nut brownie for dessert. 51 W. 64th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/721--8271. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Chinese
<PBLOCK>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>34-49</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Shun Lee West. It's a dramatically lighted study in black, accented by white dragons and monkeys. Service is good, and considering the number of people the restaurant serves, the food can be excellent. Shanghai steamed dumplings and giant prawns make stellar starters. Then try the Peking duck, sweetbreads with hot peppers and scallions, or rack of lamb Szechuan style. Fresh fruit makes an ideal dessert. <SUBSITE>The food at Shun Lee Palace</SB> (155 E. 55th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/371--8844), under the same management, is equally good.</SUBSITE> 43 W. 65th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/595--8895. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Contemporary
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>45-60</DPRICE>

<TX2>
Tavern on the Green. The reception can be perfunctory and the service polite but inept. Nevertheless, Warner LeRoy's lavish restaurant is a visual fantasy, and careful selection can yield a satisfying meal. There's also jazz, dancing, and cabaret. Request the brilliant Crystal Room, for its view of the twinkle-lighted trees, or opt for alfresco dining in the engaging garden. Prix-fixe menus lower the tab. In Central Park at 67th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/873--3200. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Continental
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[53-63]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Cafe[ac] des Artistes. Writer--restaurant consultant George Lang's masterpiece, this most European of cafe[ac]s provides a snug and beautiful ambience with its polished oak woodwork and rosy Howard Chandler Christy murals of nymphs at play. The cuisine is as refined as the setting. Four-way salmon, with tidbits of the fish that are smoked, poached, dill-marinated, or raw, is a perfect introduction, and it would be hard to find a better pot-au-feu, a French variation on pot roast, here beautifully presented with bone marrow and traditional accompaniments. Desserts are appealing: request the mocha dacquoise (layers of hazelnut meringue, sandwiched together with French buttercream). For wines, go with the George Lang selections, Gundel wines from Hungary, or the special basket wines. Customers adore the especially festive brunch. 1 W. 67th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/877--3500. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>French
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[23]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>29-49</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Cafe[ac] Luxembourg. With its well-heeled clientele, this bustling, sophisticated bistro with airy arched windows, a zinc-top bar, and racks of newspapers is a bit of SoHo on the Upper West Side. Here's the place for steak fri[cx]tes, soothing roasted free-range chicken with mashed potatoes, or a robust cassoulet. Desserts are mostly fine, especially the mouthwatering profiteroles. Several prix-fixe menus lower the tab. There is a very good selection of wines. 200 W. 70th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/873--7411. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Mon.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Mediterranean
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]--[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>55-85</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Picholine. Named for a small green Mediterranean olive, this mellow restaurant is patterned on a Provenc[cd]al farmhouse, with soft colors, wood floors, and dried flowers. Chef-proprietor Terrance Brennan's food is among the finest in Manhattan. Top dishes include the signature grilled octopus with fennel, potato, and lemon-pepper dressing; Moroccan-spiced loin of lamb with vegetable couscous and mint-yogurt sauce; and tournedos of salmon with horseradish crust, cucumbers, and salmon caviar. A cheese selection of some 30 varieties, in prime condition and served at room temperature, is indicative of Brennan's commitment to quality. The wine list offers outstanding wines by the glass; there's also a small wine area seating up to eight that offers special tasting menus. 35 W. 64th St., off Broadway</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/724--8585. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Mon.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}>

</{3}>

<{2}><HEAD>Upper West SideWhile there are discoveries here, most restaurant choices are not of the destination variety. The adventurous will find some interesting new ethnic options, including American soul food, Dominican and Latin coffee-shops-cum-diners and some moderately successful attempts of capturing the downtown spirit uptown.

</{2}><{3}><HEAD>American Casual
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>24-37</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Main Street. Bring kids, friends, and an appetite---everything is served family style. Picture a whole roast chicken and a really good meat loaf. This American-as-apple-pie restaurant prepares them all well. Since every order comes large enough to split four ways, don't let the prices turn you off (just divide by four). Check out the terrific puddings and stupendous pies. The lighting is a bit uncharitable, and the decibel level can be unfortunate. 446 Columbus Ave., between 81st and 82nd Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/873--5025. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch weekdays</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[19.95-31]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Popover Cafe[ac]. There's a certain captivating, innocent quality to the honest American food in this vintage West Side tearoom-cum-restaurant full of teddy bears. Besides the superb popover, you'll admire the terrific soups and the delectable sandwiches. Sunday brunch packs them in. 551 Amsterdam Ave., between 86th and 87th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/595--8555. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[23--33.75]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Sarabeth's Kitchen. Despite the bric-a-brac and homespun charm, this is more than a tearoom, with a menu that embraces Italianate smoked-salmon bruschetta, homespun American chicken potpie, and pan-seared salmon on wild rice. Desserts such as cranberry-pear bread pudding and homemade ice creams and sorbets are worthwhile. This is a fine place for breakfast and brunch. 423 Amsterdam Ave., between 80th and 81st Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/496--6280. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>10-19</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Firehouse. There's a reason this find calls itself a firehouse: The sauce they use on the jerk-chicken pizza has enough kick to get you to Jamaica without an airplane (you can get tamer varieties of pizza, too). You'll also find good buffalo wings, chili, and burgers. Be sure to check out the microbrewery beers. It's open until 4 [am]. 522 Columbus Ave., between 85th and 86th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/595--3139. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Asian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[30-34.90]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Rain. Conjuring up memories of the writings of Somerset Maugham, who wrote a short story called "Rain," this pleasant restaurant has a friendly bar, rattan chairs with pillows in chintz, and wooden floors covered with Oriental runners. Share first-rate Thai- and Vietnamese-inspired food: steamed ravioli called bahn cuon, with lump crab, bean sprouts, and chili sauce; crispy whole fish in three-flavor sauce; and tantalizing charred-beef salad. 100 W. 82nd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/501--0776. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Chinese
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>11-17</DPRICE>

<TX2>

China Fun. This cheerful dining spot has clean white walls decorated with captivating swirls of bright colors. As you enter, you pass by the steaming kitchen with its hanging cooked ducks. The extensive menu features a variety of regional cuisines and encompasses a savory array of barbecued food, 18 kinds of noodle soup, dumplings with all sorts of fillings, and a number of Chinese standards. The taro-shrimp cakes and pineapple-curry fried rice are both highly recommended. Save room for the terrific sesame-peanut-butter pancake for dessert. <SUBSITE>The East Side branch</SB> is at 1239 2nd Avenue, at 65th Street</ADDRESS> (<PHONE>212/752--0810).</SUBSITE> 246 Columbus Ave., between 71st and 72nd Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/580--1516. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Contemporary
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>51-59</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Two Two Two. On the ground level of a brownstone, this oak-paneled dining room with its skylight, polished-wood floor, and massive chandelier is classy for any neighborhood---and the garden is a pleasure. Representative offerings include spicy salmon tartare with red caviar, lobster risotto with black truffles, filet mignon with wild mushrooms in a red wine sauce, and baked apple in phyllo with raspberry coulis. 222 W. 79th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/799--0400. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Continental
<PBLOCK>f1]Terrace. About as off the beaten path as you can get (unless you happen to go to Columbia University), this old-world charmer on the 16th floor possesses a studied elegance. Diners enjoy two large dining rooms, a wraparound balcony, staggering views, and occasional harp music. The eclectic-cuisine has improved dramatically with a new chef, as the risotto of Scottish brown hair with butternut squash, a whole grilled Mediterranean white-snapper and pumpkin ice cream sundae, moulded inside of an edible chocolate-case, with candied walnuts, maple cream and gingersnap cookies demonstrate. It's ideal for special occasions (like popping the question). 400 W. 119th St., between Amsterdam and Morningside Aves.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/666--9490. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>Closed Sun. No lunch Sat. and Mon.</CLOSED>

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>French
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[19.95-34]</DPRICE>

<TX2>
Salt. The dining room of this bustling bistro overseen by executive-chef Partrick Adams, has a large bar and dining room in front with sconces, globe lights, ceiling fans, exposed brick walls, bare wood floors, and changing photography exhibitions. Hardy bistro dishes such as steak fri[cx]tes share the menu with  new  innovative American fare. For a singular dessert, request  the daily dessert special. 507 Columbus Ave., between 84th and 85th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/875--1993. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[19.98-39]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Savann. Executive chef Danforth Houle (formally of Bouley) performs culinary magic at what is possibly the best small restaurant on the west side. The dining area has exposed brick, brass ceiling fans, and track lighting. Among the superb entre[ac]es are cornmeal-crusted oysters on creamy celery-root puree and pan-roasted medallions of salmon with spaghetti squash in a roasted tomato vinaigrette. Apple tarte Tatin with cinnamon ice cream makes a wonderful finale. <SUBSITE>(Savann Est</SB> is found at 181 East 78th Street</ADDRESS> (<PHONE>212/396--9300).</SUBSITE> 414 Amsterdam Ave., at 80th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/580--0202. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Italian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[27-34.99]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Carmine's. Dark woodwork and old-fashioned black-and-white tiles make this hot spot look like an old-timer. It isn't. Still, savvy West Siders are only too glad to line up for its home-style cooking, served family style. Kick off a meal with fried calamari or stuffed artichoke; then move on to the pastas or lobster fra diabolo (in a spicy tomato sauce). 2450 Broadway, between 90th and 91st Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/362--2200; 200 W. 44th St., between Broadway and 8th Ave.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/221--3800. <RES>Reservations only for 6 or more</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Japanese
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>30-34</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Fujiyama Mama. White-slipcovered side chairs line up like statues in the vitrine of this creative restaurant with a high-tech design. In the startling spirit of the place, dishes have names like "Poseidon Adventure" and "Bermuda Triangle." Tell the waiter it's your birthday and your tempura deep-fried ice cream comes with flickering sparklers while the DJ lays on a "Happy Birthday to You" from his collection of weird recordings of the classic tune. 467 Columbus Ave., between 82nd and 83rd Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/769--1144. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <CRCARDS>AE. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Malaysian
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[19-34]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Penang Columbus. Although it lacks the dramatic decor of its SoHo counterpart, this often crowded eatery with exposed brick walls and lacquered columns serves more assertively spiced (and more authentic) Malaysian food than the one downtown. A good place to start is with the house drink, "Coconut Scream," made with light and dark rum, coconut milk, lotus jelly, and coconut shavings. Follow this with roti canai, a flaky flat bread to dip in chicken curry. For the main entre[ac]e, sample the whole steamed striped bass or one of the many noodle dishes. Ice kacang, made with ice cream, shaved ice, red beans, corn, palm seeds, herbs, lotus jelly, red-rose syrup, and milk, is a refreshing dessert. 240 Columbus Ave., at 71st St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/769--3988. <CRCARDS>AE, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Mediterranean
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[19.95-34.95]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Isabella's. French doors lead to a pleasant sidewalk cafe[ac], while inside, the charming dining area has Mediterranean-yellow walls, a balcony, French cafe[ac] chairs, and potted palms. Proprietor Steven Hanson also owns Coconut Grill, Blue Water Grill, Park Avalon, and the Honest Baker, all of which are sources of the house's pasta, bread, and desserts, which are practically guilt-free; try, for instance, the reduced-fat chocolate decadence, a flourless chocolate cake with raspberry sauce, fresh berries, and yogurt. The grilled meat, seafood, and pasta dishes are all tasty; try, for instance, the three-peppercorn Black Angus steak with garlic mashed potatoes or penne with eggplant and mushrooms. 359 Columbus Ave., at 77th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/724--2100. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Mexican
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>17-19.95</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Gabriela's. This modest cantina with ceramic parrots hanging from the ceiling and a desert wall mural will reward lovers of authentic Mexican cuisine. The menu has wonderful tacos, stuffed with beef tongue and chicharron (deep-fried pork skins) in a memorable bath of tomatillo and serrano sauce. The house specialty is a whole rotisserie chicken, Yucata[ac]n style, with rice, beans, and plantains. 685 Amsterdam Ave., at 93rd St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/961--0574. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Seafood
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[2--3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>24.90-42</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Mad Fish. This seafood spot has a skylit shingled roof and amusing murals depicting cocktail parties with fish as the guests. At the long mahogany bar, patrons can sample boiled periwinkles, steamed lobster, seasonal oysters, and more. The kitchen produces stylish food, such as barbecued bluefish and fish-and-chips---cured fresh cod, gently coated with tempura and quickly deep-fried. Be sure to sample the warm flourless chocolate cake. 2182 Broadway, between 77th and 78th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/787--0202. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]--[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>[19.95-34.95]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Brasserie Nola. This trendy restaurant has mottled gold walls, a copper-colored tin ceiling, and comfortably upholstered redwood chairs.  The eclectic food runs the gamut from oysters on the half shell  and a knockout presentation of raw and steamed seafood, dramatically served in several tiers of plates, the plateau,"to sandwiches, and standard bistro fare, including well prepared daily seafood specials. The ice cream sundae in an edible chocolate-sundae glass is fun; the wine and beer list is noteworthy 428 Amsterdam Ave., between 80th and 81st Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/501--7515. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.<CLOSED>lunch</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>


<DPRICE>14.95-19</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Joe's Fish Shack. After you're seated, the menu arrives attached to a clip board and a free small paper cup of cornbread and fried calamari is set before you. The rustic dining room has sawdust on the floor, tables covered with lacquered newspapers, an old rowboat suspended from the ceiling, and fish-related memorabilia. Dig into creamy oyster stew, delicious fried belly clams, and shrimp steamed in beer and Old Bay Spice. 520 Columbus Ave., between 85th and 86th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/873--0341. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Soul
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>17-19.95</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Emily's. At this neat and pleasant eatery, the bare Formica tables, paper napkins, and minimalist decor obviously aren't the draw. This bargain-priced Harlem discovery serves some of the best chopped barbecue sandwiches, deep-fried chicken livers (dunk them into the zesty house sauce), corn-bread stuffing (spiked with hot peppers and spices), and homemade potato salad this side of the Mason-Dixon Line. It's also a good bet for breakfast and brunch. 1325 5th Ave., at 111th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/996--1212. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.

</{3}><{3}><HEAD>Southern
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[23]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>20-33.50</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Shark Bar. Since 1990 this popular restaurant has attracted a multicultural clientele and African-American celebrities. The long series of three dining areas includes a friendly bar, portraits of southern farm workers, and an intimate room with red velvet drapes and velvet striped banquettes. The chicken wings, not to be missed, come in three styles: jerked, Harlem-style (floured and deep-fried),and barbecued. Also check out the soul roll, a playful variation on an egg roll made with chicken, collard greens, and black-eyed peas. 307 Amsterdam Ave., between 74th and 75th Sts.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/874--8500. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch Fri.--Tues.</CLOSED>

<PRICECATEGORY>[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>19-33.25</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Savannah Club. Lightened-up soul food is dished out to an attractive crowd at this airy restaurant with ceiling fans, French doors, and a bar flanked by columns rimmed with colored neon. Homemade corn bread and biscuits are giveaways, served with onion jam and sweetpotato butter. But leave room for the house specialty: a bowl of tender chicken and puffy dumplings. For dessert, the dark chocolate pie is a must. 2420 Broadway, at 89th St.</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>212/496--1066. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch</CLOSED>.

<LOCATION TYPE="neighborhood" VALUE="none">
</{3}><{2}><HEAD>Worth a Special TripBrooklyn and Queens offer far more interest in the dining area than the Bronx but  with the exception of the sophisticated River Cafe, one is advised to seek out small, ethnic haunts or other restaurants indigenous of these areas, as opposed to Manhattan clones, geared to satisfy the carvings of locals who care not to venture across the bridge. 

</{2}><{3}><HEAD>Contemporary
<PBLOCK>
<PRICECATEGORY>[4]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>62-89</DPRICE>

<TX2>

River Cafe[ac]. This is one of New York's most romantic restaurants. Sipping a perfect cocktail or a glass of wine from the extensive list and watching the sun set over lower Manhattan, just across the East River, is one of the city's great treats. So is the food by Rick Laakkonen. Favorite dishes include fruitwood-smoked salmon and grilled jumbo quail on white hominy puree. Desserts are dramatic, such as the "Brooklyn Bridge," sculpted out of a chocolate-mousse cake. Although prices are high---there's a three-course dinner or a more elaborate six-course tasting---the service is among the best in the business. Sunday brunch is a joy, lunch less hectic. 1 Water St., at the East River, Brooklyn,</ADDRESS>, <PHONE>718/522--5200. <RES>Reservations essential</RES>. <DRESS>Jacket required</DRESS>. <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.
</{3}>

<PBLOCK>
[4a]<PRICECATEGORY>[1-[2]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>16-32</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Henry's End Quarters may be tight, but this plain-Jane local hangout in chic Brooklyn Heights offers some of the borough's most interesting food. During fall's wild-game festival, you might sample barbecued rattlesnake or elk chops with honey-mustard glaze. Otherwise, go with raspberry duck, pumpkin ravioli, or blackened salmon or tuna. Desserts are homey; try fresh apple cobbler or black-bottom pie. Beer and wine selections are superb. To get home, we usually call the Atlantic car service ( 718/797--5666).  44 Henry St., near Cranberry, Brooklyn,</ADDRESS><PHONE>  718/834--1776.<RES> Reservations advised</RES> <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.[


<DPRICE>[14-31]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Harvest Here's a delightfully unpretentious and inexpensive restaurant in Brooklyn's Cobble Gardens area. Ther 's an open kitchen and zinc-topped wine and beer bar downstairs with with a red neon sign reading "EATS."  Upstairs, blue and white checkered cloths, hand-stenciled sheathes of wheat and antique fruit lables adorn a more sedate dining room. The food has a southland-bias with a deep-curtsey to New Orleans, and features one of the best gumbos in the east. Crabcakes are above average, lightly breaded and not over burdened by filler; even more impressive, is an honest meatloaf. There's a pleasant  housemade lemon-pudding to conclude.  218 Court St.,</ADDRESS><PHONE>718/624--9267.
<RES> Reservations advised</RES> <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V.


<PBLOCK>
<HEAD>Russian
<PRICECATEGORY>[3]</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>45-59</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Rasputin. The elegance and excitement of the the gre
<TX2>29-37at showrooms of Paris and Vegas are not to be found in midtown Manhattan, but in the Russian section of Brooklyn. Etched glass, hand painted murals, crystal chandeliers and carved doors, are a prelude to the the two-story dining salon,  a magnificant inlaid dance floor and a multi-level stage with state-of-the-art sound, laser lights and effects ranging from a descending ceiling to walls that become "serenade balconies." The lavish Rasputin Follies review features nine dancers, seven singers wearing knockout costumes and an eight piece orchestra and starts at 10 P.M. Friday, Saturday and Sunday. The mostly Russian clientel, arrive dressed-to-the-nines, stay till the wee hours and enjoy a fabulous traditional Russian banquet, beginning with "zakuska," hot and cold Russian appetizers, ranging from smoked salmon to blini and caviar. Entrees include a perfect chicken Kiev. A full bottle of Absolute vodka (per four) is included in the price.  2670 Island Ave.,</ADDRESS><PHONE> 718/332--8111.<RES> Reservations advised</RES> <CRCARDS>AE, DC, MC, V. <CLOSED>No lunch.</CLOSED>


<HEAD>Colombian

<PBLOCK>[4a]<PRICECATEGORY>[1]</PRICECATEGORY>*

<DPRICE>12-19</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Tierras Colombianas. Come to Queens and ignore the coffee-shop decor for standout stick-to-the-ribs food at bargain prices. He-man bowls of soup arrive bursting with beef ribs, corn on the cob, vegetables, and rice, accompanied by the delicious corn cake known as arepa. The combination plate---a variety of meats, plantains, and cassava---is mammoth. Or try the parchment-crisp hunk of pork called chicharron (served rind and all). It's in a colorful neighborhood, a block from the 82nd Street stop on the No. 7 train---about 20 minutes in all from Manhattan. f1]82-16 Roosevelt Ave., Jackson Heights, Queens, A more fancy branch with a bar has opened in Astoria at 3301 B'Way, 718--956--3012.</ADDRESS><PHONE>718/426--8868. <RES>No reservations. No credit cards. BYOB.</RES>

[<HEAD>4]Greek

<PRICECATEGORY>[4a][2]

</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>20-32</DPRICE>

KaryatisOne of the oldest and certainly the most elegant of Astoria's Greek restaurants. Live music, an airy multi-level dining room and professional service makes this a good bet for a festive evening at affordable prices. The food that is always good, but never threatening: Whole grilled fish of the day, skillfully executed sauces (especially the traditional avgolemono or egg-lemon) and wonderful vegetables. Don't neglect the ever-improving Greek wines or a glass of ouzo, the sweet licorice-flavored liqueur with a cup of thick Greek coffee and baklava, the layered pastry, filled with nuts and dressed in honey-syrup.35-03 Broadway, Astoria, Take the N Train to Broadway</ADDRESS><PHONE>718/204--0666<CRCARDS>AE, MC


<PRICECATEGORY>[4a][1]

</PRICECATEGORY>

<DPRICE>15-19</DPRICE>

<TX2>


. AkroyialiOne of the best bets in a predominantly Greek area of Queens, this spot with lighted grapevines on walls and ceiling and  the look/feel of the Greek islands is only a short cab ride from midtown, or about 15 minutes from Manhattan via the N train. Hot and cold appetizers such as grilled octopus, fried cheese, and taramasalata are incredible. There are appetizing Greek salads and such delicious entre[ac]es as moussaka, grilled quail, and souvlaki; whole grilled fish and (surprisingly) a knockout double tenderloin. It's all fresh and special. Greek reds offer good value.  33-04 Broadway, between 33rd and 34th Sts., Astoria, Queens, <PHONE> 718/932--7772.<RES> Reservations accepted. </RES><CRCARDS>AE.



<DPRICE>[12.95-17.95]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Elia's Corner. This diminutive storefront has now moved accross the street and expanded. Weather permitting, head for the charming garden . Whereever you sit, the simplely-perfect fod would please the Gods. No written menu, start with fried-smelts that melt in your mouth, or amazingly tender grilled-octopus. Then, whole red-snapper, St. Pierre-fish, or shrimp. And order a side of incredible potatoes: mashed with garlic or fried with cheese. Wines are limited to some pleasant Greek selections; try the clean, grassy  Kouras from the island of Patras.[f4] 24-02 31st Street, Astoria, Take the N train to Astoria Blvd..</ADDRESS><PHONE> 718/932--1510. <RES>No reservations.</RES><CRCARDS> No charge cards. <CLOSED>Closed lunch.[</CLOSED>]

	

<HEAD>*Brazilian 

<DPRICE>[14.95-19.95]</DPRICE>

<TX2>

Green Field Churrascaria. This sprawling 	Corona restaurant looks like a parking lot and features a fixed-price all-you-can-eat orgy of grilled foods, named for the Portuguese word rodizio and meaning "going around." Waiters parade skewers of grilled sirloin, chicken hearts, turkey nuggets, skirt steak, shoulder steak, chicken, duck, sausage and roasted pork. Let them know when to stop by using the stop/go tokens on your table. Precede this with a stop at the copious salad bar and hot buffet. [f4] 108-01 Northern Blvd., 108th St., Take the 7 train to 111th St. & Roosevelt Ave., then a cab (under 5.).</ADDRESS><PHONE> 718/672--5202. Reservations for 10 or more. <CRCARDS>AE