If you're into collectables, have we got a vacation idea for you. Or more accurately, ITT Sheraton and TheLuxury Collection, a group of some of the world's most glamorous hotels, which includes the Ciga Group (70% owned by Sheraton), is offering one hell of a vacation opportunity. There are actually two programs. The first, "A Taste ofEurope," offers three or more nights in the same hotel, buffet breakfast, taxes and service. The second, "Welcome to Europe,"allows you to mix and match at any participating hotel. The beauty of it all is the hotels needn't be in the same city or even the same country for that mater. So throwing caution to the wind we risked culture-shock-syndrome and selected Rome, Vienna and Madrid (in that order) and three legendary hotels associated with those meccas of "La Dolce Vita" (translate it to German and Spanish yourself). We're still daydreaming of those lazy lunches on the Via Veneto and Ringstrasse and firey flamenco in a cavernous space, accompanied by an icy pitcher of Sangria.
Rome is a bit more than 7 flight hours. ALITALIA wasan obvious choice in the wing-thing club and its Magnifico class, acombo of first and business, wins our accolades in the service area.We bear a bit less enthusiasm when it comes to seating configurationand pitch, unless you're fortunate enough to capture a sleeper-seat inthe upstairs section of their Boeing 747. But remember--we saidservice is Magnifico, so ALITALIA offers the underlings over $300in coupons redeemable in the duty free boutique. The proportion ofstaff to client is generous as is the quantity of food and wine. The food was homey and pleasant (gourmets may want to bring a tin of fresh beluga). As to the wine selection, it's good. Barolos and Chianti Classicos aplenty, albeit not the best years or top producers. The flight was smooth and although we departed a bit late, we arrived ontime. Rome is eternally seductive and inviting.
The Ciga Excelsior (part of the Sheraton Luxury Collection) is a grand Dame in the true sense of the word. Built in 1906, the Excelsior and Via Veneto were haunts of celebrities, including Joan Crawford, Elizabeth Taylor and Orson Wells and royalty including King Farouk and Constantine of Greece. The Excelsior houses 327 rooms, all air conditioned, with color tv, and decorated in the early 19th century Empire style. Our room had alovely crystal chandelier, green fabric covered walls and accents of gold. Luxurious marble baths and personalized service, from concierge to floor attendants. There are seven individually decorated function rooms and LaCupola, the elegant main dining room, the Gran Cafe Doney, just outside and the celebrated Excelsior bar. For the nothing-but-the-best-crowd, the Royal Suite offers 300 square meters, a circular sitting room, a meeting room for 10 people diningarea,connecting private study, two large twin bedded rooms, and four bathrooms. And of course there is the Via Veneto, which runs belowthe Excelsior---or does the Hotel Excelsior look down on the ViaVeneto. Perhaps that's a puzzle we'll let you solve.
Also part of the Sheraton Luxury collection is the LeGrand. A hotel frequentedby diplomats and royalty, the Grandis smaller than the excelsior andparticularly appealing to those whoadmire traditional luxury, old-worldcharm and a central location.Opened in 1894 by Cesar Ritz, theGrand has 170 guest rooms, fivefloors and an proportionally-amazing36 suites. One look at themulti-level lobby, personal bar andluxuriously decorated "LeRestaurant" and the Grand is boundto capture your fancy.
Rome Dining
For those who demand fine dining, exquisite and inventive cuisineand wines and service to match, Relais Le Jardin in theLord Byron Hotel, a member of the Leading Hotels of the Worldfamily, is nonpareil. The young food and beverage director, Sr. Mussinelli, runs the show with aplomb and the kitchen produces agastronomic extravaganza beginning with extraordinary appetizers, including a unusual calve's head and peppers terrine and a delicious stuffed calamari, served with mixed vegetables, through extraordinary pasta: cavatelli with scorpion-fish, peppers-ragout, olives and herbs or spaghetti with crustaceans, mushrooms and saffron, and memorable entrees. We decided on turbot in potato crust and a pureeof white beans and a Roman pork filet with honey and ginger with green pea ravioli. Both were beyond reproach. Desserts, a selection of hot and cold pastries and cakes, and a souffle of cream and prunes in Armagnac plus whole-wheat-bread ice cream and Gianduia sauce(a dense chocolate) were worth the flight from JFK. A suggested wine, a chardonnay from "Le Vignole" was eminently compatible and offered excellent value. True to its name Relais Le Jardin is filledwith flowers, and accoutrements cresting an elegant garden ambiance:damask green tablecloths on top of white with scalloped edges, wickerchairs with floral cushions, lots of marble and troimphe. l'oeil garden scenes.
Rome has no lack of elegant, grand-luxe dining establishments. Oneof Rome's most fashionable restaurants is El Toula,part of a group of more than 15 internationally. Rome's version ishidden on a quaint street and filled with celebrities and beautifulpeople. The front room, with a small bar, leads down to a charmingdining room with settees and comfortable tables. Lovely flowers,vaulted ceiling and accents of wood recall an elegant private club.Service is attentive and highly personal and the kitchen is one ofRome's best. Brandad of salted cod with polenta was a traditionalVenetian dish, while sesame homemade pastry with prawns, spinachand curry sauce offer contemporary contrast. Risotto with basil and baby squid or cold spaghetti salad with bottarga, a sort of mulletcaviar, and strings beans both provided extraordinary first plates anda sea bass baked with black olive vinaigrette was served for two andwas a remarkable entree in its simplicity and fidelity to fresh produce.Desserts were equally fine: a gratin of fresh berries with zabaglioneand moscato, a Pear William semifreddo with honey sauce andfregolotta (literally breaking into crumbs), a typical cookie-likeconcoction, broken with a mallet, and savored with and foamyespresso. Manager, Vincio Carlon, will make even first time guestsfeel at home and El Toula is indeed a home away from home forlovers of the good life. Bruno Borghesi's San Souci is thejewel in the crown of Rome'sglamour-restaurants. After morethan 30 years, no Romanestablishment captures the fantasy of"La Dolce Vita" quite so well asSan Souci with its romantic bar,luxurious seating, guitar music,superb service and of course firstrate international food. Duck withhoney and arugula, a trio oftartars--salmon, lobster and bass--garnished with a bit of eachfish in its un-minced state, greengnocchetti in fondue with asparagustips and wild salmon Taormina stylewere exemplary. There are soufleesand flambes enough to satisfy one's flare for drama or perhapsconclude with lovely cookies and a bit or sorbetti or fresh fruit. Mr.Borghesi is also partner in the Manhattan restaurant Arcimboldo.
Second stop--destination luxury: Mozartmit Schlag.
In Vienna, the Imperial and Bristol areTHE hotels. The Imperial sparkles with pristineefficiency and rooms with floral carpeting, crystal chandeliers, periodfurniture, marble baths with double sinks, color tv, room-safes anda contrapuntal interplay of the old and the new. The deluxe roomsand acclaimed Imperial Suites are breathtaking in their expansion,furnishing, artworks and taste. The hotel is a converted 19th Centurypalace, commissioned in 1866 by Duke Phillipp von Wurttemberg.Architect Arnold Zanetti built this monument to civility in theRenaissance style. A series of restorations and renovations,culminating in 1994 have produced an extraordinary establishment ofinternational reputation. The Bristol, just down the street, caters tobusiness travelers and old world charm and grandeur. Its suites, whilesmaller than the Imperial are highly personal and each is styled andfurnished in a unique and distinctive fashion. In the culinary league,The Imperial's restaurant, is very good thanks to a new food andbeverage manager and young chef. The ambiance is a casual/elegancewith a piano and sharp-service. Food is contemporary and on an uptrend. Here, one can enjoy first rateViennese classics or updated Austrian cuisine, that is if you userestraint at the excellent buffet breakfast, including fine herring,smoked meats, sausage, cheese, eggs, wonderful breads and of coursethe ever-perfect coffee.
Vienna Dining
The Michelin one star Korso restaurant of the HotelBristol is striking with its glass panels sequester guests fromtroublesome intrusion of the outside world, as they sip Austrian winesfrom an awesome list, including a "Weininberger" Sauvignon Blanca "Sampling 8" native-red and Auslese dessert wines that are intensenectars. The kitchen is brilliant. Lunch might begin with cold calve'shead on vinegar/potatoes followed by sauteed perch, with arugula andonion confit. Next, salmon, marinated in milk, salt and sugar andgarnished with caviar and Russian salad in aspic and creme fraiche.Even the ubiquitous rollmops (raw herring encasing marinated fennel)are homemade at Korso and entrees like turbot in curry beurre blancwith an asparagus garnish, cepe ravioli, and a rack of lamb withbreaded and deep fried scallions and a lightly creamed cabbage withbits of smoked bacon are special. Of the several desserts wesampled, a "helicopter" composed of small spoons of sorbets(yogurt-herb, strawberry, raspberry, egg-liquor flavored-vanilla andmelon) all resting on bits of cake, reposing on an oval-glass whichpressed flowers and herbs suspended over a napkined plate wasunmatchable. Still, we fondly remember the semolina bavarian withfresh berries and syrup, a poppyseed clafouti with fruit and elderberryice cream and delicious cherry and chocolate beignets. Petit fours andmarvelous tea and coffee and a schnaps from Korso's elite collectionare fitting finales.
Vienna's other outstanding dining experience is Steirereck. Two starsfrom Guide Michelin (4 toques from Gault Millau),Steirereck is home to Vienna's power lunch andchic-dinner set. The stone walls, vaulted ceiling and palace-like seriesof rooms create an atmosphere of unabashed luxury. Chef Reitbaureis 24 years old and son of the owners. Trained by noted Parisian chefJoel Robuchon, his kitchen is masterful. Bouche amuse arrives on asmall tray: a cup of gazpacho, fish tartar, stuffed zucchini, smokedsalmon, pot-cheese pine nuts, corse salt & basil-oil, all on tiny forks.Then, foie gras gateau with apple custard, apple and cranberry puree,frittata of wood and meadow mushrooms, followed by pike-perchwith young garlic puree on a green sabayon and a sauteed andpike-perch with asparagus and black nuts in honey sauce. Rabbit andcaper berries, kidneys, liver and garlic and Styrian venison with bliniand mushrooms were spectacular meat courses. But leave some room.Assorted cheese (the strong ones discretely kept in drawers) precedeswarm poppyseed apple-ravioli and vanilla ice cream and a dramaticpresentation of strawberry soup, poured from a pitcher over sour milkice cream. Finally, a tiered miniature of house desserts, ranging fromtorts to cherry dumplings and noodles with poppyseed. Turkish coffeemade tableside or a tray of Viennese espresso, schlag, candied orangepeel, candied indian nuts and pear or elderberry schnaps. All this accompanied by Viennese reisling, sauvignon blancs andextraordinary blends of local grapes and cabernet for the reds. Setdinners from 395 to 880 austrian schillings (currently 10 to a dollar)and one may order five glass wines for an additional 520 schillings. Gourmets and gourmands alike will want to partake of the opera,concerts and of course the numerous coffee houses for which Viennais justifiably famous, including Cafe Central, whichalso serves a first rate lunch.
Toreadors
Spain's capital, Madrid, is a city of contrasts. Like a regal senora,she disdains the vulgarities of the 90's with an unabashed openness.Step into the domed lobby of the fabled Hotel Palace,formally Ciga and now part of an elite group of properties owned byITT Sheraton and known as the luxury collection, one is overtaken bythe stained-glass ceiling and Belle Epoque grandeur. Built in 1912 onthe site of the palace of the Duke of Medinaceli, service is as grandas the setting and what a location: facing the Museo Thyssen and theCongress of Deputies, the Palace ismoments away from Plaza Mayor, Madrid's oldsection, the Prado, the Palacio Real and theCentro de Arte Reina Sofia. While tea in thecupola and an aperitif or cocktail in the bar, oncefrequented by Ernest Hemingway are de rigueur,the Palace, with the best buffet breakfast inEurope included in the price, is considerably lessexpensive than the Ritz, located just across fromthe Prado. It is also more spiffy, althoughguest-rooms are smallish and unexciting.
Madrid Dining
But all-of-Spain the Palace is not. Step out andturn directly left on Plaza de Jesus and Madrid'ssecond face appears. Wonderfully raffish, gay andsurprisingly inexpensive for a city that is hardlynoted for value, Tascas or small, typically Spanishtaverns dot this narrow street like paprika coloringa chorizo. Taberna de Delores, apersonal favorite, at number 4(429-2243), is young and vibrant withattractive youths in tight jeans and T-shirts,bearing the "Delores" logo pumping foamy glassesof marvelous Spanish cervesa (beer) chargingabout a buck for a small glass. So quaff away,nosh on a bit of typical manchego cheese andleave a bit of change--service is included. Othertapas and wine bars, beer cafes and venues whereSpaniards enjoys bits and bites of hot, (caliente fortemperature) and cold tapas roll off of PlazaMayor. The appropriate hours are 11 A.M. to 1(before lunch) or 8 P.M. to 10 (preceding dinner)and although some me be piquante or spicy,Spanish fare is Mediterranean, like southernFrench, Italian or Greek, tasty but notMexican-interfaced.
Two other noteworthy tapas bar/restaurants aremandatory. L'hardy, 8 Carrera deSan Jeronomo (522-2207), where you shouldremain downstairs, rather than ascending to therooms above which are relegated to more formal(sit-down) dining. Taberna Del Alabardero,Felipe V. Num. 6, (541-5192) whichalso has a location in Washington D.C. at 17761I Street N.W. (202-429-2200). TabernaDel Alabardero offers the option of snacking it atthe small bar area in front or heading through thelong corridor by the open kitchen and enjoying anexcellent amalgamation of traditional-style food,alternating with Spanish nouvelle cuisine. So aftera fine shrimp with garlic and oil, don't besurprised to encounter a fabulous baked goatcheese, topped with sauteed green peppers, olive oiland plumped currants. The ubiquitous jamon orSpanish ham is addictive and accompanied by crusty bread and one of theexcellent Spanish wines from Rioja, Penedes orother wine growing regions can provide asatisfying(andaffordable)meal. AuniquebreakfastMadrilenosdoteon iscreamyhotchocolateandthelong,curlySpanishdoughnut-standinscalledchurros.Themostatmospheric,although itismost often frequented for a late night snack orvery early breakfast (it closes at 7 A.M.) isChocolateria San Gines, 5Pasadizo de San Gines, no phone.Rocablanca, 46Fuencarral is not so atmospheric, but aviable option, since it serves until 10 A.M. Diningin Spain (whether lunch or dinner) means late,long and relaxed. The choices offer as manycontrasts and surprises as does the Spanish way oflife. Madrid has yet to crank up the opening andclosing restaurant merry-go-rounds of New York,L.A. and Paris. Traditional luxury restaurants likethe Germanic Horcher, AlfonsoXII 6, (532-3596), near the edge of RetiroPark featuring game dishes served in a roomfurnished with antiques and brocade-fabric coveredwalls and Jockey, a clubbyinternational favorite, at Amador de los Rios6, (319-2435) are tried and true andtenacious. Zalacain, Alvarez deBaena 4, (561-5935), is (amazingly) over twentyyears old and still the nouvelle leader. Its peachcolor-scheme and opulent table setting areaccompanied by service that can be overbearingand the kitchen is not as consistent as its elevatedrating might suggest. Viridiana,Juan de Mena 14 (523-4478) is highlyfavored by locals as is El Amparo,Puigcerda 8 (431-6456). Don't expectto find dining-bargains at any of these restaurants.
A traditional Basque restaurant with a stunningveranda, is Jai-Alai, BalbinaValverde 2, (561-2742). An ideal choice forlunch, the Txomin Ttxaniz white, a typical Basquewine, may not be to all tastes, but as a foil tocallos a la Madrilena (tripe with chorizo sausage,potatoes, onions and wine) as well as merluza orcod, cooked and sauced three ways, you maybecome a convert. The owner is an artist and hispaintings adorn the walls as well as the attractivemenu cover.
Off Plaza Mayor and a few doors past a restaurantdisplaying the sign "Hemingway Never Ate Here"is Casa Botin, Cuchilleros 17(366-4217), one of Hemingway's favorites.Built in 1725, four tiled floors, wall to wall touristsand occasional strolling musicians can't destroythe sensational roast cochinillo asado or sucklingpig, coredo asado, roast lamb and un-transportableambiance. Cabo Mayor, JuanRamon Jimenez 37 (350-87-76) offerssubterranean dining in a choice of colorful roomsand food prepared by a young chef who honed hiscraft at Barcelona's El Dorado Petit, one ofSpain's finest restaurants. The signature sweet redpepper, filled with a seafood mousse in an herbalsauce, thickened with ground nuts is delicious andall dishes are beautifully presented. A TintoMonistrol "Merlot" from Penedes is worthexploring.
No trip to spain is complete without a night ofFlamenco. Corral de la Moreria, CalleMoreria 17, 365-8446 offers one of the mostauthentic Flamenco shows and you'll probably bethe only American in sight.
IBERIA has frequent flights toMadrid from most U.S. gateways. We can vouchfor its first class seating (only eight persons on our747) and its safety record is nonpareil. And ifyou've always wanted to see a bullfight, Madrid's Las Ventas, Calle Alcala 231 is considered theworld's best. Tickets are often marked up manytimes over the printed price for the privilege ofseeing six bulls sacrificed on a Sunday afternoon.For our money, we'll stroll to the Prado, gotapas-hopping and take a siesta. There's still thattypically Spanish nightlife that goes till wee hours followed somecafe con leche or chocolate and a sugary churro. If your interest is perked and you'd like to puttogether your own eclectic itinary, "A TasteOf Europe" and "Welcome To Europe" canbe reserved by calling your travel agent orSheraton directly, whose toll-free numbertelephone is 1-800-325-3535, you may just want tostart your own collection.
ITT SHERATONReservations: Tel:(1800)-325-3535
ALITALIA Reservations:
Tel:(1800)-223-5730
IBERIA Reservations:
(1800)-772-4642
Hotel Excelsior, via Vittorio Ven 125,4708 Rome. Fax: 011-396-482-6205.Le Grand Hotel, via. VittorioEmanuele Orlando 3, 00185 Rome. Fax: 011-396-474-7307.
Imperial, Kartner Ring 16, A-1010,Vienna. Fax:011-431-501-10410.
Bristol, Kartner Ring 1, A-1015,Vienna. Fax:011-431-515-16550.
Palace, pl. de las Cortes 7, 28014Madrid. Fax:011-341-429-8266.
Intercontinental Travel Company, (asuggested resource in Rome) Tel: 011-396-3540-3105. Fax:011396-3545-4444.Viajes Vacaciones, (a suggestedresource in Madrid) Tel:011-341-533-9070.Fax:011-341-554-0457.
Relais le Jardin, De Notaris 5, 00197Rome. Fax:011-396-322-0405.Sans Souci, via Sicila 12, 00187,Rome. Fax:011-396-482-1771.
El Toula, Via della Lupa 29, 00186Rome. Fax:011-396-687-1115.
Korso, Kartner Ring 1, A-1015,Vienna. Fax:011-431-515-16550.
Steirereck,Rasumofskygasse 2, A-1030Vienna. Fax:011-431-713-5168.
Leading Hotels ofthe World Reservations:(1800)-223-6800
Color photographs or slides available.
Caption 1. The Eternal City By Night
Caption 1a. The Excelsior Hotel
Caption 1b. Le Grand Hotel
Caption 2. Vienna's elegant Kartner Ring
Caption 2a. The Imperial
Caption 2b. The Bristol
Caption 3. Majestic Madrid
Caption 3a. The Palace
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