If Melbourne, with its genteel Victorian homes and authentic Italian espresso, is a slice of Europe in Victoria, Sydney’s wraparound  waterfront, vibrant cafe culture and causal sophistication is reminiscent of San Francisco and Vancouver and has a Pacific Northwest alliance. Sydneysiders, as they call themselves, refer to Melbourne a the "bleak city." Melbourners, on the other hand, think of Sydneysiders as somewhat crass and more than a tad ostentatious. ("Better new-money than no-money," The Sydneysiders counter). And while Melbourne is consistently on the "A" list when it  comes to the world's most livable cites, Sydney takes center stage in the tourist-destination league. Its justifiably lauded "Rocks" area, while respectfully restored, is, alas, also terrifically touristy.

With spectacular views of the Sydney Opera House and harbor, the  Park Hyatt captures the most enviable location of any hotel in Sydney. It was designed by Chinese designer, Tony Chi,  (Zen Palate in New York City) and addresses the environment exquisitely, but lacks some of the luxury of the Melbourne property and does not offer an executive lounge level. Service is excellent and a close look at the major Sydney hotel properties reveals the same temperament that New York hotels and those of most major tourist centers display: You don't need to offer quite so much  if your rooms are always in demand. Translation: Melbourne’s hotels give more bang for the buck.

Starwood has both a Westin and Sheraton property in Sydney and while the Westin is considered the upper label, we took favorably to the Sheraton on the Park with its splendid views, service, first rate executive lounge and corporate-clientele. Its casual dining venue, the Botanica Bistro, offers a surprisingly excellent buffet lunch daily with, of all things, a seafood station where several choices fish and shell fish preparations are cooked to order.

The newly opened “harbourkitchen & bar” at the Hyatt provides a pleasant breakfast buffet as well as some interesting a la carte options.
 
 

There are so many wonderful restaurants in Sydney, a must-go smattering would certainly include Tetsuya ‘s (729 Darling St., Rozelle), where a Japanese chef cooks world class cuisine. Soon to relocate, Tetsuya’s is so popular there is a 3 month wait-list. Tetsuya Wakuda has won three different awards naming his restaurant the finest in Sydney. Don’t miss the wondrous slow-cooked  ocean trout, and blue cheese bavarois. I would classify Tetsuya’s as one of the finest restaurants in the world.
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While most Asian restaurants in Australia shine, Thai food is especially miraculous at Sailors Thai (106 George St), the offshoot of the landmark Darley Street Thai, whose chef is so good that he has been hired by the Thai government to teach the art of Thai cuisine, is a must. There is nothing lke this hip, hot room in New York or San Francisco. The cutting edge cuisine manages to be contemporary, yet avoid any reference to fusion, and retain a loyalty to the authentic regional cooking of Thailand. This glamorously restored restaurant is located in the Old Sailors Home & offers delicious red curries and salads fragrant with lime juice and fish sauce as well as pineapple and cashew-nut stir fry. Upstairs is a casual noodle bar, with a long, communal stainless steel table.

Another winner is the MG Garage (490 Crown St., Surry Hills), This sports car showroom also has a serious kitchen, where Greek chef, Janni Kyritsis, produces some awesome Mediterranean food. Try the amazing salmon coulibiac (with rice, eggs,                           shallots, and mushrooms and wrapped in a brioche pastry shell); roast pigeon and cabbage rolls with a liver, heart, and   pork stuffing; and rosebud parfait with pear, orange, and sour                            cherries.

High in the sky, Level 41 (on the 41st floor of the  Chifley Building,, 2 Chifley Sq.), not only offers Sydney’s best views, but some surprisingly good food thanks to chef-owner, Dietmar Sawyere (also responsible the best restaurant in Auckland, the charming  Five City Road). His Asian-influenced, classical food is inspired. Go for the dramatically presented crown roast of hare with Indian spices and the deadly Valrhona chocolate tart. The                            restaurant's Krug Room is a haven for lovers of fine Champagne and the finer luxury tidbits of life, such as caviar and foie gras.

Sydney’s Park Hyatt, 7 Hickson Road, The Rocks. Reservations (1-800) 233-1234 & Sheraton on the Park., 161 Elizabeth St. Reservations (1-800) 325-3535) rate A Plus on my International Travel Report Card. The above restaurants all are strictly “A” list.

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