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Hamilton,
As In Bermuda
Hamilton is a cosmopolitan
island-city that - no matter what your travel goals – offers something for
everyone.
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B |
ermuda is closer to Manhattan than Miami, yet it offers
old world elegance, an island escape ambiance and enough hi-tech amenities to
keep you in the loop, between rounds of golf, lazy lounging on secluded beaches
or a gourmet meal that would impress the most picky Parisian.
Located, 500 miles east of North Carolina, its
climate is cooler than that of its Caribbean cousins, but the Gulf Stream
waters are delightfully warm. Repeat visitors are those who like their comforts
convenient and plentiful; who like their sea tranquil, their nightlife cozy,
their dress code dapper. Golf and tennis are a widespread obsession, played on
numerous top-notch courses and courts. Except in mid-winter, the swimming is
excellent, too, on the seemingly endless carnation-pink coastline. And thanks
to the surrounding coral reefs that grind out that famously gorgeous sand (and
once wrecked
many a ship), scuba and snorkeling are also a must;
farther out, sport fishing's the rage.
A less strenuous pastime is shopping, since many
European goods are available for prices lower than those in American stores. In
Hamilton, Bermuda's orderly capital, the shops clustered along Front Street
sell an overwhelming array of fine china, jewelry, French lace, and British
woolens (here's the place for newlyweds to scope out that coveted crystal at
close to half-price).
In 1503, the Spanish explorer Juan de Bermudez
dismissed this subtropical oasis as the "Isle of the Devils," but in
subsequent centuries his namesake evolved into a masterpiece of civilized
bliss. On this prosperous British outpost, manners are as gracious as the
shorts are long. The standard of living is among the highest in the world, the
setting among the prettiest and most colorful. From crisp white yachts to
canary-yellow mansions, from the crystalline aqua surf to the hot-scarlet
blooms of tall poinsettia trees, the entire island resembles a sublimely
cheerful decorating scheme. Nature is lush but tamed, the tenor of life happy
but staid.
In actuality, Bermuda is not one island but a 25
mile paisley-shaped chain of 150 mini-isles, cheek by jowl, supporting quaint
pastel villages, palm cloaked villas, birdwatching haunts, and clubby resorts.
Getting around is fairly easy, thanks to the efficient buses and ferries, but
car rental is nonexistent because of traffic concerns. Renting a moped is de
rigueur, but be warned that Bermuda's narrow, scenically walled lanes have sent
many a tourist home in plaster.
Open from sunrise to sunset, the Botanical Gardens,
a lush 36-acres of fascinating foliage and fifteen permanent exhibitions. To
make the most of your visit, time it to catch the guided tours. The Visitors
Information Centre is open practically every day of the year.
Accommodations range from luxury resorts to intimate
guest cottages and family-run inns, all incorporating the sophistication and
hospitality unique to the Bermuda experience. It all depends on what you're
looking for. For more information, you can call 1-800-BERMUDA.
$21M OF TLC MAKES
THE FAIRMONT HAMILTON PRINCESS
PINK WITH PRIDE!
As is our M.O., we feature one
major hotel (in this case two, with the same management) and our personal
selections of recommended restaurants per destination. This enables our readers
to leave the choices to us and rather than merely doing site-inspections and
overwhelming you with a perplexing quantity of choices, we offer quality,
geared to the luxury and business traveler.
When you're a royal, you
deserve a little extra attention and that's just what The Fairmont Hamilton
Princess in Bermuda has received. Over $21
million has been spent on the "Pink Palace" and in fall 2002, the new
lobby was unveiled – the latest in a series of upgrades to the property.
As guests enter the hotel, the
feeling is one of being welcomed into a traditional Bermudian ancestral home. Homes on the Island evolved from the grand
Georgian residences of Britain but without the detailed decoration. The Fairmont Hamilton’ lobby has taken its
cue from this rich architectural tradition, resulting in a grand but simple
statement.
High ceilings, arched doorways
and windows, walls and ceilings in the palest shades of white and cream, a
stone fireplace, and floors of sparkling marble provide an elegant backdrop for
the rich colors and woods of the furnishings.
The orange, red and gold
fabrics in the lobby were inspired by the native Royal Ponciana, with blue
accent colors taken from the ocean and tiny Bermudiana flower. Wood furniture
is crafted of traditional mahogany with woven cane accents and wing chairs have
the highly recognizable Bermuda Onion foot.
.
One of the spacious, airy
bedrooms.
The elegant tradition of
afternoon tea brings back a sense of yesteryear and reinforces the British
influence. We can say, without reservation, that it is superior to any tea we
experienced in London on a recent visit. Traditional sandwiches are spruced up with
contemporary and island touches by the hotel’s executive chef. Being a scone
lover, I endorse those, made in the Fairmont’s kitchen as ethereal. Some
clotted cream is all that is needed, so as to guild the lily. The tea selection
is also inspired; service is charming and efficient.
The Fairmont Hamilton
introduced 97 exclusive Fairmont Gold guestrooms. This includes concierge service, private check in and check out,
and Fairmont Gold salon with concierge, complimentary breakfast, afternoon tea
and evening hors d’oeuvres. A boardroom
is available and computers with Internet access are also provided. Guestrooms have been renovated to include a
spacious walk in closet, in room safe, coffee maker, dual phone lines and
Internet access. Butler service is also
available at an additional cost.
Since 1885, The Hamilton has welcomed world travelers in style.
A ROYAL MAKEOVER
FOR
THE FAIRMONT
SOUTHAMPTON
With time to spare and for a more secluded
atmosphere, The Fairmont Southampton is easily reached by complimentary ferry
service from the Fairmont Hamilton or by taxi for about $20. It has a fresh new
look following a $61 million makeover.
The renovation includes a new lobby, 23,000 square
foot Willow Stream spa, indoor pool, indoor and outdoor jacuzzi, expanded group
check in area, and mezzanine level with business centre, meeting rooms and
boutique gallery.
The most immediate impact is the sense of arrival in
the sun-drenched lobby with oversized windows framing colorful gardens and ocean
views. A creamy sand-coloured marble floor with mosaics, an open staircase,
custom-made carpets with a shell motif in a soft palette of pink and green, and
casual but elegant furnishings give a light and airy feel to the hotel.
A Business Centre with full office services was
added on the Mezzanine level. Guests
can use three private workspaces and two Executive Boardrooms set in a
permanent boardroom style for meetings of 10 to 14 people.
·
A new Fairmont Gold concierge level was introduced
to the sixth floor of the hotel. A
“hotel within a hotel”, this product was designed for the most discerning guest
experience.
§
The Fairmont Gold Lounge, offers a private check in
for guests and is serviced by a concierge from 6:30 a.m. until 11:30 p.m. Complimentary deluxe continental breakfast,
afternoon tea, hors d’oeuvres and soft drinks are available and guests can
relax in the intimate lounge that features 54 seats in three sections – the
cocktail room, a cozy “living room”, or the library den with fireplace,
computers and complimentary internet access.
To take advantage of the views and the weather, there is a private outdoor
balcony.
§
The Presidential Suite at
the Fairmont Southampton Princess
§
A complete renovation of 88 guestrooms included
marble bathrooms, double sinks, French doors to the private patio, lacy curtains,
duvets, cordless phones, and second phone line for internet and email
access. Bermudian in its décor, the
rooms boast original artwork and were inspired by the colors of the island -
soft peach with cornflower blue, and cranberry with buttercup yellow.
Ahh
– A Spa!
The most exciting phase of the project
and everyone’s favorite was the addition of the 23,000 square foot Willow
Stream spa. There is a full service
fitness centre with all the latest equipment and staffed with a personal
trainer, and facilities for wet and dry treatments, steam rooms, saunas, and
vichy massage. Private lounges for men-only, women-only, and couples are
available to read and relax, and a secluded indoor pool with terraced gardens
and an indoor and outdoor jacuzzi are connected by a walkway.
We are often disappointed by so-called
spas in the Caribbean. More often than not, the facilities promise more than
they deliver and the staff is not of world-class quality. Willow Stream blew us
away. Not only does it feel luxurious, it emanates a spiritual quality as
well. Follows some of the
possibilities. We experienced the Bermuda Aromatherapy Massage
and Gentlemen’s Barber Facial. Both were spectacular treatments,
administered with care by consummate professionals.
It’s not surprising that baths are one of the
specialties of the Willow Stream Spa in Bermuda - an island surrounded by ocean
and reefs. Always relaxing, the thermal
water and algae baths include minerals and trace elements to relieve aching
muscles, promote circulation and detoxify.
Guests can select from nine different mineral and herbal baths, many of
which use local ingredients such as sea salt, rosemary, lavender, spice, floral
essences, seaweed and essential oils.
Signature Body
Treatments at Willow Stream in Bermuda include:
§
Sea Splendour Body Oasis (2 hours). Starts with a eucalyptus foot soak and an
invigorating exfoliation with volcanic sand, geranium and ylang ylang essences,
followed by an aromatherapy bath with fresh floral and spicy citrus
fragrances. The treatment ends with a
massage of warm aloe mixed with island essences and a body wrap, with a scalp,
face and foot massage to complete the experience.
§
Island Inspiration Body
Sorbet (1
hour). Choice of three cooling island
sorbets – island hibiscus to refresh, island spice with a twist of orange for
extra vitamin C to energize, or lavender to heal and relax. The treatment consists of a massage with a
rich quenching cream, followed by the sorbet application, and a body wrap.
§
Bermuda Aromatherapy Massage (60 or 90 minutes). A
personalized massage with choice of three special island blends: Seaside
Sunrise for energy, Midday Ocean Air for stress relief, and Tropical Moon for
rest and relaxation.
For Men Only: A cultural anthropologist,
hired to research the differences between the way men and women “spa”, reported
that many men felt alienated in spas.
While women view spa experiences as pampering and indulging, men saw it
as a reward after hard work and needed to be involved in the experience. As a result, the men’s lounge was designed
and decorated to reflect a den-like atmosphere where men can put their feet up,
relax, and even watch television.
Another comment from men was that they didn’t feel comfortable wearing fluffy bathrobes, so the Keep Your Shorts On Package was created. When men arrive for their treatment, they receive a pair of Willow Stream jersey athletic shorts and a t-shirt to “cover up” and take home. Another “for men only” treatment is the 60 minute Gentlemen’s Barber Facial, inspired by the old fashioned barber shops. It’s specifically for razor burned skin and includes a hot towel wrap, deep cleansing, exfoliation, and massage of scalp, face, neck and shoulders.
Both the Fairmont Hamilton
Princess and the Fairmont Southampton Princess offer attractive packages worth
exploring.
All packages are available at
both Fairmont Hamilton and Fairmont Southampton and include three nights accommodation, all related
taxes, gratuities and resort levy. Rates are per person based on double
occupancy.
Bed &
Breakfast Package: The most popular way of
playing and staying, it offers a full American breakfast in the hotel’s
restaurant or through room service daily. At Hamilton rates from $109, at
Southampton from $135.
Dolphin Quest Package: Swim and play with the dolphins during a
1-hour dolphin encounter (to be booked at time of reservation), souvenir photo,
round trip taxi transfer to Royal Naval Dockyard and entrance to the Maritime
Museum (home of Dolphin Quest). At
Hamilton rates from $425, at Southampton from $505.
Experience
Bermuda Package: A taste of Bermuda’s best with
daily breakfast in the hotel restaurant or through room service, a full day
snorkel rental with instruction, one – 1 hour jet ski rental, a full day double
scooter rental, two hours of court time at Fairmont Southampton’ tennis courts,
and admission to the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute. At Hamilton
rates from $615, at Southampton from $745, available through to October 31,
2002.
Family Getaway
Package:
Great for nannies and grannies travelling with the family! One room is at the regular rate, with the
second room 50% off for kids 18 and under.
Includes a welcome beach kit and complimentary Kids’ Explorer Camp with
7-Up Kids Night Club. Kids 18 and under
dine free from the kids menu or pay 50% from the a la carte menu. At Hamilton
rates (per night, including tax, gratuities and resort levy) from $285, at
Southampton from $375, with 50% off for the second room.
Royal Tee Golf
Package: A
golfer’s paradise, Bermuda has more courses per square mile than anywhere else
in the world – and year round playing! Includes unlimited golf at The Fairmont
Southampton’ award winning 18 hole, executive par 3 golf course, two rounds of
golf at Port Royal and/or Riddles Bay, taxi transfers to the course, shared
cart, club cleaning and storage, personalized bag tag, and sleeve of balls. At
Hamilton rates from $555, at Southampton from $635.
Heritage
Package: Step
back in time with daily breakfast in the hotel restaurant or through room
service, heritage pass to seven major attractions, three-day bus pass, and
three hour taxi tour to the UNESCO designated St. George’s and Fort St.
Catherine. At Hamilton rates from $425,
at Southampton from $509.
Royal Romance
Package: Daily
breakfast in the hotel restaurant or through room service, champagne and
chocolate dipped strawberries on arrival, one couples’ spa treatment in Willow
Stream, a spa gift, and blossom turndown service. At Hamilton rates from $515, at Southampton from $595. Seven-day
honeymoon packages are also available at Hamilton rates from $1,110, at Southampton
from $1,289.
Willow Stream
Spa Package: Relax
and rejuvenate with daily access to the new 23,000 square foot Willow Stream
spa and fitness center at The Fairmont Southampton, and one body treatment per
person, per stay. At Hamilton rates
from $399, at Southampton from $479.
Summer Breeze
Package: Discover
the many islands of Bermuda with a sunset champagne cruise, welcome beach bag
and towel, harbourside dinner at Harley’s Restaurant (Fairmont Hamilton) or the
beachfront Whaler’s Inn (Fairmont Southampton). Available May through October 31, 2002, at Hamilton rates from
$495, at Southampton from $625.
Wreck Dive
Package: Once
a sailor’s curse, Bermuda is now a diver’s paradise with over 400 known ships
on the reefs to explore. Daily
breakfast in the hotel restaurant or through room service, 2 – two tank dives
or a resort dive for non-certified divers, and admission to the Bermuda
Underwater Exploration Institute. At Hamilton rates from $445, at Southampton
from $524.
Dining Selections
With over 150 restaurants
to choose from, the question isn’t where to eat, but what to eat instead. From
chic international cuisine at posh dining rooms to conch stew at a roadside
cafe, there’s a taste to please every palate and budget. You’ll find Italian,
Indian, Greek, Chinese, English, French, and Mexican restaurants throughout the
Island. Wahoo steak, mussel pie, Hoppin’ John (black-eyed peas and rice),
cassava pie, codfish and potatoes for Sunday brunch, and guinea-chick (spiny
lobster) are just a few of the truly Bermudian delights that await you.
Diners can choose from an
array of delectable international and regional dishes or local seafood. Many
establishments feature alfresco dining, where patrons sup on a terrace under
clear, warm skies with the stars twinkling overhead.
Those with a penchant for
Continental cuisine will have no trouble finding many wonderful restaurants
with chefs trained in the finest European traditions. More adventurous types
will want to try flavorful native cuisine; none of the delicacies it includes
can be found anywhere on the mainland.
For a change of pace from
a Continental breakfast, tourists may want to try the traditional Bermuda
Sunday breakfast--boiled salt codfish with tomato and onion sauce, boiled
potatoes, a hard-boiled egg and a banana on the side. It tastes like a mixture
of Portuguese and Caribbean cooking.
There are a few favorite
Bermuda staples diners shouldn't miss. Foremost among them is the Bermuda
onion, one of the earliest exports from the islands. Over the past 350 years,
Bermudians have discovered countless ways to use the Bermuda onion. Visitors
can sample an onion pie, an onion sandwich and even glazed onions for
dessert.
Another island favorite is
Bermuda fish chowder, which is a highly spiced, thick broth made mainly of fish
heads and fresh fish, usually served with a dash of sherry or rum and a squeeze
of lemon. Also popular are conch chowder and Portuguese red bean soup.
The real excitement over
the past years is the liberation and transformation of Bermudian cuisine from
its English roots. Chefs are using local produce to create exciting global
cuisine.
The Wellington Room restaurant
in the elegant Relais Chateau
Waterloo House kitchen is under the direction
London’s venerable Anton Mosimann. It prepares the Island’s most outstanding
version of Bermuda’s justifiably famous fish chowder, liberally laced with the
the traditional kicky Sherry-peppers and black rum, a memorable blackened fish
sandwich on ciabatta bread and some serious seafood dishes. The restaurant
caters to an international clientele. A private house a century ago, this
restaurant and small hotel on Hamilton Harbor exudes charm.
For fabulous
views of the water and a magical beach, try The Reefs. Its Coconut’s restaurant
is beautifully situated and near the Fairmont Southampton Princess. Sip a rum
punch, made with the potent “Bermuda Gold” liqueur, a “Dark and Stormy, which
combines ginger beer with black rum or a Rum Swizzle. They all accommodate the
casual and user-friendly menu of local dishes, good salads and wraps.
The Elbow
Beach Hotel, not only offers one of the Island’s most romantic settings, its Sea Horse Grill restaurant,
under the capable hands of executive chef Scott
Connor, is considered the best new-Bermudian cuisine on
the island. Located
in main building, its innovative cuisine merges West Indian with English,
Portuguese with Creole. Along with a courtyard and atrium setting, an open
display kitchen, serving inside and outside on a newly covered terrace affords
panoramic ocean views. Executive chef Scott Connors may be Bermuda’s most
celebrated chef. He has cooked at the James Beard House and offers a cuisine
that is both appealing and original.
Appetizer highlights include jerk-spiced Bermuda onion rings with a
mustard dipping sauce, 4 hour cooked pork baby back ribs on an herb salad and
sauced with a Bermuda onion jus. In the entrée area, you won’t go wrong with
grilled Atlantic halibut and warm truffle beet salad or cedar smoked rack of
lamb on a sweet potato gratin with mango jus. Tropical fruit ice, attractively
presented in a coconut- shell and Serrano and Bermuda Gold poached pear, with
ginger ice cream and sugar crisp and winning desserts.
In Hamilton, Frescos gets our
vote as the most charming choice, with its off-the-beaten-path location, intimate
wine bar and rewarding food.
The Sonesta Beach’s
restaurant, Lillian’s, is not only excellent, but also romantic, with some
drop-dead views. Start
with cocktails in the intimate lounge, and then enjoy antipasti, soups and
salads, osso buco, saltimbocca, fresh pastas and other traditional Italian and
Mediterranean specialties. Or, choose a live lobster from the tank, prepared to
order. Then linger a little as you sip a fine grappa or port.
For
a big splurge, most people agree that The
Southampton Princess’ Newport Room is the ultimate gourmet
dining experience. The service staff goes all out in the drama and special
effect department. If you want it flambéed, no restaurant in Hamilton does it
with more panache that Newport. Better enjoy one of the excellent house
martinis, before looking at the prices on the a la carte menu. But a European plan
program makes even the Newport room eminently affordable. Its wine list,
developed by its Food & Beverage Director, is among the best on the island.
The young sommelier, the only female wine-attendant we spotted on our visit was
very knowledgeable and chose beautiful wine-companions to our food choices.
Stellar starters include Hudson Valley Foie Gras
Three Ways Seared,
Torchon and Pate with Vintage Port Gastrique
Pommes Roesti, Foie Gras Mousse, Madeira Jus or a classic Dover Sole
Meuniere with Citrus and Caper Buerre
Noisette, Pommes Dauphinoise.
Don’t skip dessert: Lemon Delight, Lemon Custard Layered with Tender Angel
Food Cake Meringue, Strawberry and Vanilla Sauce and a tantalizing Tanzanian
Dark Chocolate-Praline Mousse Espresso Cream, Kumquat Crème Anglaise will send you
out with a smile. There is a fine selection of cheese in prime
Hamilton’s Delightful Front
Street
condition, as well as a
not-to-be-missed soufflé. The Newport Room at the Fairmont Southampton Princess
provided the most glamorous finale for our Bermuda getaway.
The rewards
of travel, like any rewards, are part of an equation. The amount of effort + time should = enough joy to warrant the
expenditure. In our work, we’ve traveled many a mile to sometimes end up in a
destination dud. Bermuda, on the other hand, packs a lot of punch for an
island-fix that is so close to home. Way to go Bermuda!!
In a Nutshell Bermuda offers our four travel “C,s.” Close to home, Clean (you can
drink the water), Charm, and above all, Class. Currency: The Bermudian Dollar, equal to the U.S. Dollar, which is
also accepted. Prices: Since you are paying in dollars, plan to spend about what
you would in major American cities. Airlines: Continental offers the best service, and amenities Cruise Ships: Check Out www.cruise.com
for the best deals. Hotel Recommendation: Fairmont Hamilton
Princess & Fairmont Southampton Princess. Reservations can be made by
calling toll free to 1.800.441.1414. Best
Big Splurge Restaurant: Newport Room in the Fairmont Southampton
Princess. Best
Business Lunch: Waterloo House, • Pitts Bay Road • 441 295-4480 Best
New-Bermudian Cuisine: Sea Horse Grill, Elbow Beach Hotel, Paget, t:
236-3535, Most
Enchanting View for Lunch: The Reefs, 56 South Shore Road Most
Enchanting View for Dinner: Lillian’s in the Sonesta Beach Hotel, South
Shore Road, Southampton Best
In Town Dining, Hamilton: Frescos, 2 Chancery Lane, 441-295-5058
Crime Level: Low
Southampton, 441 238-0222