Wednesday Food Links & More

J. Walman

A Marketing We Will Go

East Side, West Side, depending on your aptitudes, appetites and stamina, New Yorker's love to seek out exotic foods for ethnic creations or reproductions of some exciting feast from a near-forgotten holiday abroad. Time was, one had to schlep to the boroughs and scout out individual purveyors of everything from filo dough to Mediterranean olives if the goal was Greek, Syrian or Middle Eastern-esque. Today food emporiums, catering to our new found taste buds, are changing our habits and while they don't quite capture the charm of a mom/pop hole-in-the-wall, they provide a viable alternative and are in keeping with today's conglomerated life style.

Two candidates, one the chi-chi, very New York Vinegar Factory, an outgrowth of its original West-Side-Jewish-International roots, (owner by Eli Zabar), and the second, a big, ethnic-based-supermarket, cherished by knowledgeable New Yorkers, Fairway, in the renewed-Harlem, get our vote for one-stop gourmet hunting.

Dips, Salsas & Spreads by Judith Dunham and Jane Horn, Collins Publishers, San Francisco.Could we really limit our culinary shopping excursion to one stop? Testing the premise, I grabbed two diverse little cookbooks that had been directed our way for review and, magic marker in hand, selected random recipes that appealed to my food-fickle disposition. The first book, "Dips, Salsas & Spreads" sounded like fun. The pictures were pretty and although it had a formidable tabletop-look, my appetite perked up at thethought of such purees, mashes and tosses as charred onion and garlic spread, papaya-pepper-relish and pomegranate & walnut paste.

Finger Food by Norman Koplas.

Collins Publishise rs, San Francisco.Also intriguing was "Finger Food", with its excursions to Mexico-via-Moscow (smoked salmon quesadillas), Italy (vegetable bruschetta) and France (cruditès with lemon-dill vinaigrette). Both seemed perfect to source early summer noshes/sans/work, accompanied by a big pitcher of sangria or a pale of ice, embedded with micro-brewed beer and ale.

Stop One: Vinegar And Brunch.

The Vinegar Factory

431 East 91 Street.

(212)987-0885

Open seven days a week from 7:00 AM to 10:00 PM, and delivery in Manhattan is available: East side above 59th $7.50, West

side above 59th $12.50, and below 59th $22.50. Close your eyes, and imagine a place where all your food fantasies could be fulfilled. The Vinegar Factory, a large warehouse specialty market, is owned by gourmet pioneer, Eli Zabar. Over the years, Eli has become famous for offering the some of the best prepared foods in New York City at E.A.T., his

specialty store and cafe, and now at this expansive offers not only the finest prepared foods, butalso a variety of prepackaged fancy foods. On any give n morning he can be found among his loyal customers sneaking a taste of the specialty foods (Eli's answer to quality control). From his famous Eli's Bread to tomatoes on the vine imported from Holland, nothing gets shelved without Eli's personal seal of approval.

A staff of sixteen people are always cooking in the kitchen. Simple touches like fresh sourdough herb croutons made from Eli's Bread are sure to spruce up any salad, and exotic extras like lobster

mushrooms, mesclun, feta cheese, black olives, roasted peppers, endive, radicchio,

red onions, and of course those sourdough croutons offerd numerous possibilities for inventive summer cookery.

Smoked Salmon Quesadillas Recipe.

(Freely adapted from Finger Food by Norman Koplas)

Mix 1/4 cup mild goat cheese, 1/4 cup cream cheese (both at room temp) and spread 1/3 of the mixture on each of 3 flour (or corn) tortillas. Cut one roasted, peeled & seeded poblano chili & 1 red bell pepper into strips and divide evenly over each tortilla. Layer slices from one avocado over each, top with a bit of mixed scallion and proportion 2 ounces of cold smoked salmon. Fold to seal. In a large, nonstick skillet, toast the tortillas on both sides till cheese melts and the outside is brown. Cut each in 4 wedges and serve immediately.Recipe 1.So how about those smoked salmon quesadillas? No sweat. I could have chosen between several types of smoked salmon, including the Vinegar Factory's house brand, which seemed a good buy at $6.50 (it was only a quarter of a pound, but plenty for our needs). Packaged tortillas were available and why not substitute some of the terrific Arabic lavash bread: there was another recipe for that, featuring mayonnaise and dill in the book.

The Vinegar Factory is housed is an old vinegar factory from which it gets its name. Honoring its historic interiors, many items, ranging from imported French cheeses to exotic fruits, are displayed in the

barrels left from the original factory. The Vinegar Factory also looks to the future with a walk in refrigerated room, where customers can survey an extensive array of organic and imported produce without thatannoying supermarket mist. With organic produce, nothing is enhanced but the flavor and there is an unusual organic selection with baby spinach, sprouts, and a variety of potatoes to name but a few items. For creative chefs, this "cool" room also offers an

assortment of fresh herbs.

Stop Two: Fairway's New Harlem Location: With six miles of food, you can walk off your meal while you shop for it.

Fairway

On the Hudson River at 133rd Street and the West Side Highway,(212) 2343883.

The market is easily accessible: shuttle buses run from river to river from 96th to 181st Street; subway commuters can take the #1 or #9 lines (stopping at 125th Street); the #15 crosstown buses also stop at 125th Street and 12th Avenue; drivers can easily access the market, which is just off the West Side Highway, and park for free (275 secured parking spaces are available directly in front of the store). The market is open seven days a week from 8AM 10PM.Fairway, the gourmet warehouse that shoppers have grown to love over the past 20 years, has expanded to Hamilton Heights in West Harlem.

Fairway's partners David Sneddon, Harold Seybert, and Howard Glickberg

have joined forces with Joe Fedele to bring New York six miles of shopping space.

Fairway's wholesale to the public

concept insures the best quality food at the best possible price and it has eliminated the use of multitiered distribution and passes

the savings on to consumers to the tune of up to 50% onselected items.

Fairway's mecca of provisions is the largest (and most reasonably priced) market in New York City; with over 35,000 square feet of retail space. The new store takes up an entire City block with views of The Hudson

River. The extraordinary selection of products offers items from pigs feet to caviar and everything in between: an unbeatable selection of fresh quality produce; a butcher on site (cutting farm

fresh meat and poultry to your specifications); tanks with live and fresh caught fish and shellfish; a wood burning oven for pizzas and

pies; smokers turning out Fairway's own smoked meats and fish; a rotisserie including chickens, capon and pheasants (with an assortment of six glazes); over 350 choices of cheese; fresh baked breads, bagels and pastries; ethnic spices and specialty produce; as well as dry goods

and nonperishable grocery sections.

Shoppers are also able to purchase coffees from around the world or stop by the inhouse coffee

bar and sip espressos, lattes, and cappuccinos with a freshly made bagel or home baked pastry.

While the catering department has also expanded and offers everything from

Additional recipes (optional).

Greek.

Italian.

French.Recipes 3 & 4.packaged dinners for the single diner to family style trays of oven ready prepared foods, we must resist the temptation of letting the good folks at Fairway do our work and thumb through "Dips, Salsas & Spreads." The dairy department has an amazing selection of yogurts, milks, butters,

Pinto Bean Dip.

Freely adapted from Dips, Salsas & Spreads by Judith Dunham & Jane Horn.

In a medium saucepan over medium head, saute 2 cloves of garlic and 1 large chopped onion in 2 tablespoons of olive oil. When soft (about 5 minutes), add 2 cups of refried beans (use canned or substitute, black beans or some other variety), a cup and 1/2 of grated Monterey Jack or Manchego cheese and 1/4 cup canned, diced and seeded jalepeno chilies. Add salt and ground cumin to taste and stir till melted. Keep warm in a chafing dish and serve with corn or potato chips, warm bread, toast or even bagel-crisps or matzo.Recipe 2.all of which can be whisked and whipped to hell, and of course there are aisles of canned products from Goya's line of ethnic staples to boxes of rice and pastas as well as nuts aplenty and dried fruit.

Off Beat

We all kno w about Take-Out, but in researching an article on East Side pubs, I discovered a new phenomena, Take-In. Several venues I telephoned offered the booze, but not even a sandwich. Then a funky-bar called Pirates at 1589 1st Ave., invited us to bring our own (food that is) or order in---they'd provide the paper plates and napkins. An Australianbar, in the same area, offered an equal opportunity but Ryans Daughter, a terrific Irish-style watering hole on East 85th Street, outdoes them all by posting takout menus from all the local takout emporiums in its window. Eggroll and Guinness anyone?

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Off Limits

The best cafe-latte in town may be at the minuscule Cafe Europe In Astoria, near Steinway Street and definitely off Broadway. Formica tables, terrific looking little pastries from a nearby bakery and marvelous brews, served in tall glasses with steamy milk by an amiable Italian woman named Patricia, who stands for no nonsense from flies (she carries a swatter in the summer) or the occasional surly customer. The clientele is---well unusual. On sundays, well-coiffed women with Gucci hand-bags, and kids, weekdays, mysterious dark complexioned men-only, who greet each other with a kiss on either cheek. take their coffee with a plastic bottle of mineral water on the side, always seem to carry a beeper and use the unlisted pay phone frequently. I love it!

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Off The Wall.

"Tie Cuisine," Recipes From Grandma's kitchen is a little recipe book that comes with "Tie Cuisine," a Tasty Fashion Statement, the manufacturers of which have created a line of 100% silk designer ties that feature your favorite food- stains from all major food groups. The wackiest food-related gift we've encountered this year, the ties are rather attractive, mine had a deep green background and cutesy little pictures of brandy glasses, decanters and casks (all accompanied by the appropriate stains naturelment).

Tie Cuisine. Available from Venture Initives of Dallas in 15 different "pre-stained" ties. Suggested retail price:$30. Contact 1-800-767-3254.

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A Reeeally BIG

Shooooo

It's a landmark. It's a landslide. It's a hit!

And it’s a real pity Jackie Gleason and Ed Sullivan aren’t around to herald the arrival of Sullivan’s Restaurant and Broadcast Lounge, under the marquee of the landmark Ed Sullivan Theater in New York City.

Back in the 50s, Gleason and Sullivan were famous for entering the Cordial Bar adjacent to the theater to drain a few stiff martinis

between takes. Apparently, the dynamic duo also bickered nightly over whether to grab a steak or Chinese to go with that stiff one. Alas, those two legendary entertainers would have given their eye teeth for a place like Sullivan’s that will serve for the first time under one roof the two quintessential fares of that era.

Two distinct menus of the restaurant Steakhouse and Classic Chinese the definitively New York, culinary staples of

Typical Dishes at Sulivans

Grilled lamb Tbone with roast garlic sauce, ground sirloin, with hickory smoked bacon, sauteed chow Mein noodles with stir fry Cantonese vegetables, and Lychee tea smoked duck with carrot sesame

cakes.the day. Owner and operator Earl Geer, who developed the successful HiLife Restaurants, has enlisted chef Neil Murphy (Aureole, Symphony Cafe and La Cote Basque) to take the traditional Steakhouse

and classic Chinese dishes and reinvent them with his trademark flair.

Interactive Chef

•Home Life

•Favorite Foods.

•Pet Restaurants.

•Cooking Tips.

E-Mail your sugggestion for Interactive Chef to:

jwalman@inx.net

Chef’s Box

Photo and Profile of Chef Neil Murphy

Neil Murphy began his career in the food industry two decades ago when he was a chef in the service on a Navy submarine. After completing his tour of duty, he spent four years working in several restaurants in

Pearl Harbor including those serving Chinese, Philippino and Japanese food. When Mr. Murphy returned to the United States in 1983, he entered the renowned Culinary Institute of America where he studied for two years.

Immediately following graduation, Neil Murphy became the Chef de Tournant at the romantic River Cafe under the esteemed David Burke.There he learned the fundamentals necessary to become a worldclass chef. During Murph’s tenure at River Cafe, American cuisine was at its height, giving him the opportunity to experiment with the unique flavors from Italy, Asia, and France. Under Burke, Murphylearned the importance of changing the menu, the spices, the flavors and the food to keep people interested. Fro m River Cafe, Neil Murphy went to the

Classic French restaurant, La Cote Basque where he was the Chef de Poisson/Chef Saucier under Chef and Owner JeanJacques Rachou.

In 1989, Neil Murphy left La Cote Basque to become the Sous Chef at Aureole, and later rann the ranges at the Westburry Hotel’s Polo and Symphony Cafe. He is married and his wife attends law school in New England. [link to Murphy’s favorite ].

Sullivan’s also offers a latenight live music aspect, reminiscent of the urban cocktail lounges in Harlem and midtown during the 1940s and 50s. Under the supervision of Paul Shaffer, the music director of the late Show with David Letterman, the live music dimension will showcase new talent accompanied by a rotating house band.

In an effort to recreating the era of the old El Morocco and the Stork Club, architect James Biber of Pentagram (Mesa Grill, Gotham Bar & Grill and Bolo) washired to craft a new design that at once would respect and preserve the landmark architecture, but also incorporate the new vibrancy and energy of a once again thriving midtown. This theater within a theater is adorned with classic touches including Hollywood booths, a fulllength theater curtain, a traditional mahogany bar, and a medley of familiar finishes mahogany, terrazzo and beveled mirror.

Photo and Profile of Owner Erl Geer

Earl Geer began his entrepreneurial career in the food industry at the ripe age of 16. With his startup business named Gourmet Trucking, it seems that Mr. Geer was destined to enter the restaurant industry.

Conceptualized in the late 1970s, Gourmet Trucking was a mobile Taqueria used to cater parties and concerts. He operated out of a converted 1959 Ford laundrytruck equipped with a full stove, window for

service, and a great stereo. Mr. Geer was the chef, preparing fresh salsas, soft shell tacos, burritos, and other homemade Mexican food, long before the Mexican food trend had hit the East coast.

During college and immediately following graduation, Earl Geer held several entrepreneurial jobs, always remaining determined to save enough money to finance his dream opening his own restaurant in New York

To capture the richhistory of the venue, Mr. Geer secured permission from the Ed Sullivan family to continue to use his name; he also worked closely with CBS to cull archival photos that now adorn the restaurant walls. The entire staff will undergo training to familiarize themselves

with both the photos and the history of the space. Staff will be dressed in oldstyle New York attire, wearing white dinner jackets and waistcoats.

Chef’s Box

Profile and Photo of pastry chef, Krista Kern..

Krista Kern has received critical acclaim from gourmets all across the country. At Sullivan’s,. Ms. Kern’s goal is to create desserts that evoke memories of television’s greatest bygone era.

Ms. Kern began her career in the food industry nearly a decade ago in Maine where she met her mentor Elizabeth DiFranco who was Executive Chef at the Elms Guesthouse in Westbrook, Maine. With Ms. DiFranco’s encouragement, Ms. Kern landed a highly desired Pastry Cook position at one of New York’s exalted culinary temples, Gotham Bar & Grill.

There, Ms. Kern quickly developed an expertise working with tuiles, petit fours, cakes and architecturally designed desserts by preparing the towering vertical cuisine for which this worldclass restaurant is

famous.

Impressed with Ms. Kern’s abilities, Jacques Torres, Head Pastry Chef at

Le Cirque, invited Ms. Kern to join him in the kitchen of one of Manhattan’s most glamorous restaurants. At Le Cirque, Ms. Kern quickly won praise for the quality of her chocolate and delicate sugar work. While Ms. Kern worked at Le Cirque, she received her Baking and Pastry Arts Degree from Peter Kump’s New York Cooking School with a Blue Ribbon Award for Excellence.

[link to dessert recipe]

Wine FACS (Frequently Asked Questions)

Dear Wine FACS: “I get so embarrassed when we go to fancy restaurants and the waiter presents the cork. My wife invariably, rolls it around on the table, sniffs and snorts and sometimes even puts it in her mouth and chews it a bit. What is the proper response?” Corky.

Dear Corky: Here is a case where less is more. Do nothing but smile politely and wait for the sommelier or waitperson to pour a bit into your glass to taste. If the cork is wet, dry or even disintegrated, the wine may still have a chance. Check out the color (it should be clear), aroma or “nose” is should not smell of sulphuric acid or exhibit a strong musty, rotted stench and most of all---you should like it.

Dear Wine FAQS: “I have this recurring nightmare. I’ve invited seven very important guests for dinner. I have no idea of their wine-tastes, but am bent on impressing them. I go to the wine merchantor corner liquor store and discover someone has lifted the wallet from my purse and I have exactly $11.99. The owner refuses to extend credit and since it’s a holiday, he closes in 6 and a half minutes. What to do???” Stressed-out.

Dear Stressed-out. Assuming you need two bottles for eight people, get one white and one red. The white will probably come from Spain or Italy, the red from Chile or some such country. The point is that all drinkable wine needn’t be from France or California. In addition, you may investigate grapes other than the chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon. While it’s true that the more specific a wine is (California grape varietal or European region) lesser know grapes like cabernet franc (red) and pinot blanc (white) often produce delightfulalternative at affordable prices.

Tasted Here & There

Ridge Zinfandel 1993, 75% Zin., 25% blend of petit syrah, carignan and alicante. The zinfandel, California’s gift to the varietal-wine world, is versatile, underrated, misunderstood and a personal favorite. Nobody does it like Ridge. Rich, medium-full bodied, fruity, elegant and ready-to-drink, priced at $30 (tasted at Onieal’s, 174 Grand St., (212) 941-9119), it offers excellent value and complements the cuisine, prepared by a graduate of Arizona 206 and presented in a remarkably civilized atmosphere.

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Wyndham Estate of New South Wales, first planted their grapes on the banks of the Hunter River in Astralia in 1828. Today, Wyndham Estate wines can stand proud against French, Italian and California competition.

BEER BUZZ

Looking at all the micro-breweries and brew-restaurants opening around town, beer lovers can rejoice.

Brew pubs are hot. Her are some names to keep in mind when a pint has more appeal than a carafe. Some of our favorites include:

The Beer Bar:

The Yorkville Brewery:

Carnegie Hill Brewery:

Zip City

Nacho Mamas

Typhoon

The Gin Mill

Wine Events, Clubs, Sales and Related Stuff.

Wine Masters, of 619-469-3500. Here is an interesting club for those who like the organizational approach.

Man Does Not Live on Wine Alone

When in doubt, purify the body, mind and spirit with San Pellegrino, Perrier and Lurisia, to name but a few possibilities---but more on that in future issues.

Weird FRI (food Related Items) & where to but them.

Kimche, loosely translated as Korean-pickle, can be purchased at Asian food stores throughout Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens. While the variety made of cabbage is the most familiar, just about any vegetable can be found in Kimche-drag at the numerous restaurants in “Little Korea,” a fascinating area located on West 32nd Street, between Broadway and 5th Avenues. If there is a Korean green grocery in your neighborhood (and what area of town doesn’t have one), an earnest plea that you are a serious consumer of such exotica may ease the smirks and call a trip to the cellar or back room, where the proprietor invariably has a personal supply, which he can hygienically dispense into a jar at a modest charge. Attempts to do-it-yourself-Kimchee should probably be abandoned along with thoughts of reproducing the subtle pink ginger found in Japanese restaurants.

Weight-On/Weight-Off

Diet tip of the week:

(Remember to discuss any diet thought with your family physician)

The Healthy Gourmet

Healthy food can taste delicious and it needn’t be confined to so-called heal-food stores and restaurants. Follows a list of restaurants offering at least one or more dishes that qualify.

No No NoNet

Vocabulary I

Now repeat after me: Internet, Intranet, Web, Java, Netscape, Bill Gates.

Remember these words---16 megabytes of RAM is more important than job, spouse or a two week vacation.

Computer Survival Column

Tips & Talk.

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Tricks to play on your computer.

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Tricks your computer canplay on you.

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