BANGLADESH:  A WARM WELCOME AND SCENIC SPLENDOR
     
     There is a land--hallelujah!--where the inhabitants welcome the
tourist with warm curiosity, but without a hand stretched out for money;
where the sights you want to see aren't cluttered with souvenir sellers;
where the scenery is sun-drenched when it's cold and chilly elsewhere,
and where the prices are gentle, starting with the plane fare.

     It's criss-crossed by rivers, surrounds the Bay of Bengal, and is
called Bangladesh, located just east of India, of which it was once a
part.

     When the British raj in India ended in 1947 Lord Mountbatten,  the
last Viceroy of India, partitioned off the country, declaring the two
border areas at each side of India united politically as a new country,
Pakistan, with one arm called East Pakistan, the other West Pakistan.

     In 1971, chafing under the greater power of West Pakistan, and
fueled by student protests against the loss of their Bangla language
(western Pakistani speak Hindi) an uprising and war led to independence
and a new name,  Bangladesh--"land of the Bangla speakers".

     It is in Dhaka, the capital, that the national airline, Biman
Bangladesh, first puts down in the country, after stops in Amsterdam,
New Delhi and Dubai before continuing to Nepal.

     If you go straight through without the permitted one stopover en
route, count on a 24 hour trip (including leg-stretches around the
duty-frees at each stop). It's less arduous than it sounds, thanks to
comfortable seats and Biman's pretty sari-clad flight attendants who
flutter like exotic birds offering endless cups of mango juice and
dragging out trays of food for the five meals you eat on the way.

     Fares from New York are $1072 for a round-trip, economy class, and
$1608 for first. Other airlines fly here, too, but at much higher rates.

     Short local flights and bus trips or chauffeured cars will take you
around the rest of the country. In cities, you can find taxis, but they
are outnumbered by the rickshaws and motorcycle cabs (whose drivers rush
pell-mell into clogged traffic.)

     Dhaka has hotels in many price ranges. The leaders are Sheraton
(rack rates for a double range from $135 up to $225 for a larger room
with refrigerator or kitchenette) and the Sonargaon.  Both are
excellent, with Sonargaon's rates slightly higher. Both offer suites, as
well.

     The Dhaka office of Parjatan, the official Bangladesh Tourist
Agency, has a series of inns around the country, most of them very
simple, but always with good food. Parjatan runs some bus lines, and
helps with trip planning, booking, and owns the airport's duty-free
shops.

     Pack light clothing, a lightweight wrap and sunglasses. Bangladesh
exports quantities of everyday clothing, but there are no high-styled
shops here. Fabrics, however,  are beautiful.

     Shop the bazaars, you'll find inexpensive leather goods, fabrics,
jewelry and curios. The building housing a bazaar across from the
Sheraton Dhaka is a good starting point. The Sheraton, and all the
larger hotels have shops as well.

     Plan a late fall or winter trip to avoid the May through October
monsoon season, when floods sweep the land.

     What you'll see: Dhaka has traces of the many empires that have
held sway, and the diverse religions of the land, including 700 mosques.
Don't miss Fort Lalbagh, with interesting relics of the glorious Mogul
Empire. The multi-storied Parliament House, a moat-ringed ultra- modern
building, was designed by American architect Louis I. Kahn. A boat trip
to see the "river merchants" in action is unforgettable; no two boats
are alike, and every boatman sells different goods.

     Sylhet: visit the famed "tea gardens", the plantations where
brightly-clad girls pick tea- leaves.  Dances of the Monipuri tribe in
this region are outstanding.

     Mainamati (Comilla): once a center of Buddhist culture,traces of
the Buddhist-kings who ruled here in the 7th century remain.

     Chittagong: this colorful port city has attracted traders from all
over the world for centuries. Bustling, crowded streets, and fascinating
Buddhist monasteries.

     Rangamati: visit dream-like Lake Kaptai in this picturesque Hill
Tracts setting above Chittagong. Colorful tribal buildings and boating
on the lake.

     Cox's Bazaar: jungle-lined shores along the 75-mile white sand
beach. Founded 1789 by Captain Cox of the East India Company.  The town
bazaar has exotic garments and a profusion of merchandise.  Stay in a
seaside hotel, visit the shell bazaar on the beach for souvenirs and
pink pearls from the local waters.

     Sundarbans:  this fascinating tropical forest and  wildlife
sanctuary stretches across the swamplike delta,  where streams and
rivers flow into the Bay of Bengal. Home of the formidable and elusive
Royal Bengal tiger.

     Go to Bangladesh in late fall or winter, avoiding the May-October
monsoon season when floods sweep the land. You'll find spectacular
scenery, a profusion of subtropical fruits and flowers and a warm
welcome.

                        By Donna Shor