Built in 1907, an hour's train ride from Manhattan and situated in the picturesque Sommerset hills, this turn-of-the-century Mission-style inn is just steps away from the quaint railway station. On entering, a massive floral arrangement, rich mahogany welcome table and rich hued deep teal green lobby with a blazing fireplace , grand piano and jasmine tree. Sunlight streams in the Palladian windows, which are found throughout, dressed in soft velvet, fine chintz or delicate lace. Brass chandeliers and sconces provide soft lighting in the evening.
Large paintings with pastoral themes add a graceful note. Each of the 21 guestrooms is custom designed in the style of the classic Edwardian manor houses, with windows treated in well-bred English chintz, beds cloaked in luxurious white matlasse coverlets. Creature comforts are not forgotten: fully stocked mini bar and color television are tucked inside nineteenth century armoires and gleaming white tile baths are outfitted with plush terry-cloth robes and oversized towels. Attentive service includes a nightly turn down, morning paper and complementary continental breakfast.
Managing Partner Alice Rochat is responsible for the multi-million dollar restoration completed in 1992 and Executive Chef, Edward Stone, whose background includes the tutelage of Christian Delouvier of Manhattan's Les Celebrities, produces a cuisine that is rich in flavor, elegant, well grounded in a firm technique and fresh from the garden, sea, farm or forest.
The dining areas, which require jackets for gentlemen in the evening ,are divided into five areas: The Great Room, bi-level, romantic with its award winning wine cellar and stone fireplace, an abundance of mahogany and paintings of historical figures. The Garden Room greets visitors in the morning for a relaxing buffet breakfast, The Piano Bar is warm, clubby and a terrific atmosphere for soft jazz, cognac and a sample of pastry chef Antonia Manzi's fabulous desserts. In Room Dining and Private Catering are additional delights.
Diner in the Great Room, began with an amuse bouche of tapinade and aperitif, followed by a delicate pan seared New York State foie gras, served over sweet corn and sauternes mache and endive salad with a deglaze of sherry-vinegar. Some wonderful glass-wines are available and Chef Stone offers frequent winemaker's dinners. The foie gras was accompanied by Selene "Hyde Vineyard," Napa 1994 Sauvignon Blanc. Filet of halibut, coated with chives with lobster couscous and a macadamia nut coulis was timed to the second and displayed the clean flavors, abstinence from excess and elegance that are Stone's style. Grilled Diver Maine scallops were sweet as sugar and undercooked, but not to the point of sushi, a mistake of many lesser-chefs . It was garnished with oven-dried tomatoes and shrimp relish and accompanied by Far Niente, Napa chardonnay 1994, one of our favorite California's and noted for it balance, subtle fruit and well-integrated oak.
Two meat courses followed: medallions of veal with truffles and asparagus in a light lemon-thyme jus and grilled noissettes of venison with black currents and Dijon mustard spatzle. We were particularly impressed with the fork-tender D'Artagnon venison, cooked rare and wonder spatzle as well as the sauce which complemented but didn't overpower. The accompanying Cain Five, Spring Mountain, Napa Meritage 1992 with its blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet Fraqnc, Petit Verdot and Merlot was magnificent, but not ready for a good five years---despite the nurturing nature of the professional service staff, a bit too long for us to nurse the last drops.
Dessert was an lovely poached white peach in a round tart shell over vanilla ice cream with fraise de bois, or baby French strawberries and a Dow Vintage 1991 Port.
Dinner at The Bernards Inn is on a par with Manhattan's best restaurants, no mean feat, and rates A Plus on our Restaurant Report Card.