August 10, 1993 Mr. Jay Walman Wine on Line-Punch In International Apartment 9F New York, NY 10022 Dear Jay: Enclosed is our review of Scotland restaurants. Hope it is helpful. Very truly yours, Monty L. Preiser MLP/eo Enclosure as stated xc: All Restaurants Ms. Mary Schlichter Ms. Page Thornhill SCOTLAND - WHO SAID YOU CAN'T DINE WELL? For those who believe meals of quality cannot be found in the United Kingdom, we point you north to Scotland. There you will find that the food, if not setting standards for creativity, copies the rest of the world so perfectly that your don't care that the item or its presentation is not a Highland invention. Let us begin with the picturesque town of Oben, northwest of Glasgow and at the frontier of the Scottish Highlands and famous lakes. While the menu at our hotel, the Manor House, looked excellent and even though the food was highly recommended, we drove into town to dine at Studios, literally in the heart of the city. Oben is only a town of 8,000 people, but it is situated so that it attracts a healthy share of tourist. For this reason, the restaurants can serve fresh fish from the surrounding Scottish Seas and other dishes of note. We were not hungry enough for starters, but the entrees, served with salad, a large vegetable and potato selection, and homemade bread, proved sufficient. My grilled salmon without any sauces or butter was as good a grilled piece of fish I've had outside of Alaska and some restaurants in Florida. It was almost outdone, however, by the grilled salmon in bechamel sauce, and the fillet of grilled trout with almonds in beurre blanc. Our last dish was a better than average prawns and scallops over angel hair. Topped off with a relatively inexpensive French Chablis (Domaine de Bienville-1991, this meal was excellent. By pure happenstance, we ran late for lunch the next day and pulled into a new restaurant in Spean Bridge, which is about 13 miles south of Fort Augustus, where Loch Ness begins its 23 mile, 800 foot deep, trek north. Owned by Helen and Richard Burney, the Old Station Restaurant is a lovely bistro built on the location of an old railroad station. In fact, the refurnished depot is the restaurant and trains from towns such as August 9, 1993 Page 2 Fort William drop patrons off for dinner until the south bound train takes them home. The Burnsy's built the establishment from scratch in 1992 and have much of which to be proud. We desired a light lunch, and were favored with the best smoked trout we have tasted , a garlic prawn sandwich, a salmon sandwich with dill sauce, and, finally, a masterpiece - Bailey crab totally deshelled and served in the cleaned out shell. The presentations were all first rate, and, with an old railroad station motif as well as friendly and hardworking proprietors, the Old Station House is already a regional hit. Our next experience was dining at the 5 crown awarded Culloden House, in Inverness. What a treat from the word "welcome." We were seated in the magnificent drawing room by the hotel's owner, Mr. Ian McKenzie, a perfect host if ever one existed along with his wife Marjory. Actually, Kelly and Prince, two beautiful collies served as hosts as well and were always available for a walk to show us around, or, if we didn't have the energy, a pet was appreciated. In the drawing room we were served cocktails and discussed the menu and wine list, finally ordering from the comfort of our couches and chairs. The dining room was Victorian elegant, and the meal once again delicious. Our starters included and Asian styled lentil tomato bisque, sauteed sweetbreads, a unique and marvelous turrine of wild game wrapped in bacon with a madeira sauce, and a perfectly prepared turrine of salmon and sole in dill sauce. August 10, 1993 Page 3 The service here was as elegant as the surroundings with not too much "hovering" but plenty of help at what always seemed the correct time. Each entree ordered was one we recommend. The turbot in cream sauce and Angus steak covered with gorgettes and other vegetables rate high marks, while the chicken stuffed with prunes and sprinkled with grapes and walnuts, as well as the duck breast stuffed with veal sausage, orange zest, and raisins, were both of the highest order. Generous portions of vegetables and potatoes were served on the side, and we complimented the meal with a 1989 Tokay pinot gris which was fair (Trimbach setting the standard), and an excellent 1982 Spanish Roja Imperial Reserve which was properly decanted and served with a touch of chill. When one dines like this, deserts are a must, and we sampled berries (red and blue) in a tulip with cherry sauce, a chocolate mousse with vanilla sauce and ice cream, and of 7 types of Scottish cheeses. We have had desserts as good, but the cheeses in Scotland, England, and Ireland in general make you want to swear off eating them in the States. There really is a difference. Having our fill of the heavy and fancy, we searched out the Drovers Inn near Forfar, but actually in Meemus. You really have to want to find it, and we're glad we did. After parking next to and petting 2 longhaired Highland steers, we sat at the bar in this packed little bistro owned by Lisa and Hamish McDonald, the former of which cooks and the latter of which runs the bar and chats with customers. August 10, 1993 Page 4 We met not only with Hamish, but other patrons at the bar, and had a great time. Hamish worked us in despite being packed. This is a charming place remindful of a bright New York bistro transplanted to the countryside of Virginia. We started with a selection of Eastern Asian appetizers (somosa, egg roll, gound lamb) accompanied by a beautiful curry sauce and mango chutney. The best entrees were mussels with bacon, mushrooms, and parmesan cheese, and the pan grilled tuna with oriental sauce. The steak with onions and mushrooms was good but not great, and the pasta vegetarian dish did not come up to the level I know the restaurant would like. For our beverages we sampled beers and scotch before enjoying the house wine, a Domaine de Bienville 1991 Chablis. This was a most enjoyable evening. The following night in Edinburgh we had the opportunity to eat my personal favorite cuisine, Indian. We chose Lancers, which had been recommended by personal contact and guidebooks, and were only a bit disappointed. While the food was good, we have eaten in many better Indian establishments, especially throughout the United Kingdom. The servers seemed to be a bit confused as to who was serving throughout the evening, and had some trouble explaining their dishes. The assorted appetizers of somosa, ground lamb, prawns and chicken, were small and undistinguished. The nan was too crispy, and no Pimms Cup was available. August 10, 1993 Page 5 On the other hand, the lamb pasanda was excellent and the prawn curry did rank highly. As said, we enjoyed the meal but just feel there are probably better Indian houses in a city as diverse as Edinburgh. The following evening we experienced not only some of the finest dining of our lives, but some of the finest accommodations. Obviously, then, we recommend without hesitancy One Devonshire Gardens in Glasgow. From the moment we arrived we experienced the kind of service a traveler always seeks-but rarely finds. This small establishment (27 rooms) is divided into three houses. Ours had 2 staff at all times in reception, at least one other who served as a type of butler answering every request, and various other people as necessary. Our rooms were perfect, as were the common areas, which could pass as a definition of "elegance". Great thought and care had gone into every aspect of this establishment. We were escorted to dinner in another house and served cocktails in a charming drawing room while we perused the menu and wine list. Dinner was served in a perfectly appointed and properly lit room, and included, as one might imagine, perfect food and wine. We had a selection of soups available, but the consomme with sherry and crab bisque were the favorites. Devonshire is where we first sampled John Dorry fish, a Scottish delight, served with an accompanying mixture of sauces. The salmon was served grilled and poached, both dishes proving once again that the seas in and around the United Kingdom contain tasty August 10, 1993 Page 6 dinners. My rack of lamb was perfect and of huge proportion. Everyone enjoyed some. Five or six baby vegetables (chosen for color as well as taste) adorned the plates and were properly steamed. Desserts were too numerous to mention, but the cheeses and chocolates we chose were the right ending to a truly delicious meal. Our dinner was accompanied this evening by a 1990 Trimbach Reisling, and the "find" of our trip, a 1987 Wolf Blass cabernet sauvignor from Australia. Scotland is a land of charm, historic interest and fun. One can also eat as well as he or she likes. The Studio Restaurant, Craigard Road, Oben, Scotland Phone: 063160230 (Moderately priced) Old Station House, Station Road, Spean Bridge, Inverness-Shire, PH 34 4 EP Scotland Owners: Helen and Richard Burney Phone: 039781535 (Moderately priced) Culloden House, Inverness IV, 2 N2, Scotland Owners: Margaret and Hilem McKenzie Phone: 0463790461 (Expensive) The Drovers Inn, Memus by Forfar DD8-3T4, Scotland Owners: Lisa and Hamish McDonald Phone: Foreside (030780) (Moderately priced) Lancers, 5 Hamilton Place, Edinburgh, Scotland Phone: 031-332-3444 (Expensive) One Devonshire Gardens, One Devonshire Gardens, Glasgow, G12048, Scotland Phone: 041-339-2001 (Expensive)