South Beach Scene/Miami Nice
                    By J. Walman

If you still think of Miami as a refuge for the old or a metaphor for
Jewish with a capital "J" you'd better think again. Sure, there are
retirees aplenty and an "ethnicity," but the mix these days is more
Cuban, Haitian or Asian than Middle European.

While you can still schlepp you mink to the Collins Avenue strip, those
willing to give up a beach front location and glitz can enjoy an
Island-style holiday in the delightful Art Deco area at European style
hotels. The elevator may not always work (ours in fact was out of
commission) and the continental breakfast mentioned in the brochures may
be temporarily unavailable but what the hell. The staff is in a constant
state of smile and it feels so foreign.

We chose the charming Cavalier. Originally built in 1936 with the typical
Deco emphasis on vertical lines and a refreshing palate of cream,
caramel and lavender tones, the Cavalier reopened in 1992 with interiors
designed by Barbara Hulanicki. Rooms make up in charm, color and
personality what they lacked in size. Two double beds, with gay wall
hangings and island-colors (gold, turquoise and orange) were finished with
lush batik prints. All rooms have a color tv, vcr, radio, fully equipped
bath and even a safe in the closet (a light to make reading the
combination easier would have been appreciated as well).

The helpful staff couldn't do enough for us, and for the young, budget
conscious or young a heart, the Cavalier offers an escapist resting post
in South Beach. Other choices include related hotels (the Leslie and the
distinctly Jamaican Marlin), as well broad selection of "point and
choose" as you drive through.

Wherever you stay, you'll be right in the middle of the action and
everything from trendy boutiques to restaurants that would feel right at
home in New York's SoHo are within walking distance.

Speaking of restaurants, two not to be missed newcomers are the
strikingly beautiful Follia (meaning craziness, madness or insanity).
What decor. Evoking the 19th century of period of Italian history and
the distinctive art deco style of the 1930's, the space is awash with
marble statues, plays on grey and blown up photographs of scenes from
period films. Typical of Miami, martinis are perfect and the wine list
is well done. Chef-owner Mitchell Maxwell has his own style and creates
a memorable dish of pasta with a zesty sea urchin sauce -- one of the
most interesting pasta dishes we've encountered in the last year. Those
less adventurous can enjoy a lovely snapper filet encased in shoestring
potatoes, a dish that seems to appear (and reappear) in Manhattan
restaurants from Le Cirque to Colors, but has never been as
well-executed as Follia's version which matches the crunch of the potato
against the moist succulence of the snapper. A risotto that changes
with market ingredients daily is also thoroughly enjoyable. Desserts
are equally excellent, try the mango cheesecake. Follia is only 3 weeks
old, and we predict it will become one of South Beach's new stars.

The hottest restaurant in South Beach is the 8 month old Pacific Time.
It is justifiably packed and unequivocally excellent. The long shadowy
room has distressed stucco walls flecked with gold, banquettes in cobalt
blue and eighteen foot high ceilings illuminated by halogen lights.

Chef-co-owner (with partners Yves Picot and Alexander Duff) Jonathan
Eismann proves himself to be one of America's most accomplished
proponents of the new-American kitchen and excels in the use of local
ingredients coupled with oriental cooking techniques and spices. Crisply
sauteed sweetbreads with arugula and aged sherry vinegar, a delicate
hand-roll of rice paper filled with diced shrimp, Pacific Time pancake
of the night and grilled giant squid with Asian greens and a hot & sour
vinaigrette were unusual appetizers that were also unusually delicious
and not mere concepts.

Entrees exhibit the same combination of creativity coupled with a firm
craft and a generous sprinkling of integrity. If we had to play
favorites, our vote would go to a whole yellowtail snapper (on the bone)
cooked tempura-style, a cedar roasted salmon with salted salmon rolls
and east/west mustard sauce and shiitake dry aged Colorado beef, grilled
with sweet sake and wild mushrooms. A close second was a roasted and
sliced rack of lamb special, characterized by a rosy and moist interior
and that relied on attentive cooking time.

Desserts by Pastry chef Jennifer Warren were to use a cliche . . . to die
by. A warm bittersweet chocolate bomb, toasted almond cake with warm
bananas and sea coconut honey and a mocha pot de creme in Phyllo
pastry with Wisconsin cherries and white chocolate grenache. Service is
quite good, considering the crowds and the wine list is extraordinary with
42 whites and 37 reds from around the world.

Two Miami restaurants designed on a grand scale offer a totally
different Miami dining experience.

Nick's Miami Beach, at the Marina, (the only restaurant in this
beautiful complex and on the marina overlooking Biscayne Bay) is
spectacular. Designed in the style of an Italian piazza, this 30,000
square foot restaurant, nightclub (Ruby's, featuring state-of-the-art
light and sound systems and light fare for late-night grazing) and
banquet facility can accommodate 1,000 diners and is truly a grand cafe
in the tradition of Paris' La Cascade. There is also a choice of
beautifully appointed private rooms of various designs and size that are
ideal for parties and special events.

You will be pampered with some of the best service on this planet. All
of the food is fresh, well designed and generally excellent. Favorites
would include a zesty gaspacho, Nick's classic salad, wonderful crunchy
steamed vegetables and a robust cooked bean-melange. A sparkling cold
smoked salmon Italian style with scallions and olive oil was delicious,
and snapper or grouper can arrive perfectly grilled, sauteed or blackened
and is beyond reproach as is a lovely broiled salmon Raul in a light and
refreshing Champagne sauce. Everything is beautifully presented. Even
the lemon that accompanies your denizen of the deep is gowned in colored
cheesecloth, a step few restaurants take now a days, to protect the
customer form intrusive seeds and eagerly awaiting the squirt.

Besides the a range of local species, including stone crab, which were
unavailable on our visit (we were told the quality wasn't up to Nick's
standards), there is a large selection of seafood from around the world,
excellent desserts and a well chosen wine list, featuring 60 great
selections.

Nick's is a grand dining experience and visited early in its career, we
are certain that under the auspices of the dynamic owner, Nick Nickolas,
it will improve with each visit.  Nick's has branches in many other
cities including Chicago, Boca Raton and Honolulu. Each has its own
distinct personality and style. The Miami Beach branch is destined to
become the one of the finest seafood restaurants in Southern Florida.

For sheer elegance, head for the Waterside Restaurant, An American
Place, the North Miami version of Larry Forgioni's Manhattan
masterpiece. Set in the elegant and beautifully refurbished Jockey Club
on Biscayne Boulevard, the restaurant gives one the feeling of dining in
a gazebo, with its central dining room topped by a domed ceiling with a
trompe l'oeil tropical mural, unless you opt for a delightful outside
"Windows," a wraparound porch enclosed by a vine draped trellis. There
is also an attractive Caribbean style lounge serving light food and
libations and a poolside bar and dining area overlooking the marina.

The food, under the supervision of Mr. Forgione and prepared by chef
Melissa Kelly, has been adapted to the Miami taste and while lacking the
sophistication and controlled complexity of its Manhattan counterpart,
is interesting and generously portioned. Mr. Forgione is a leader in
using American ingredients, creative combinations and European cooking
techniques. One can expect everything from a crisp Florida lobster cake
sandwiched with avocados on a bed of field greens and smoked tomatoes to
traditional meat loaf with pan gravy. There are unusual club sandwiches
(grilled chicken with maple cured smoke house bacon and fresh herb mayo
on a freshly baked roll) and plays on local seafood (fresh Florida
lobster ravioli). Desserts are appropriately homey and include a dense
chocolate pudding, a mango crystallized ginger creme brule and a lemon
angel cake with tropical fruit salsa.

Prices are surprisingly low for such luxury and the wine list is
extraordinary, offering some excellent wines by the glass. An American
Place is about a half hour ride from South Beach and, as the French
would say, is worth the detour.

If you're still in the mood to party when you return to the beach, check
out South Beach's newest club, Amnesia. This huge space also has a
serious French restaurant (oddly named Portobello) and the more casual
Amnesia cafe. Or just stroll through the blocks of neon and take in the
new Miami . . . it really is nice.

While the new Miami is fascinating, it isn't the whole of Southern
Florida. Palm Beach and Boca Raton offer totally different experience.


Of all the fine hotels in Palm Beach or South Florida for that matter,
our vote for the most personal hotel-experience goes to the Four Seasons
Ocean Grand, which is a paragon of excellence and efficiency. The Four
Seasons Ocean Grand has a breathtaking design by Los Angeles based
designer James Northcutt and is outstanding in the area not lacking
world class hotels. Public rooms sparkle with marble, crystal, soft
tones, rich textures, fresh flowers and artifacts from all corners of
the globe. Impeccable service is the rule and rooms offering every
amenity, yet always defer to exquisite taste.

There are 210 rooms of which 12 are suites. Our suite was soothing to
the nerves and eyes. Ivory walls, floral patterns in soft yellows,
pastels, greens and beige. The marble bath displayed double sinks and
television (all rooms have two) in addition to the expected and there
was a convenient room safe, three telephones and minibar.

Laid back luxury sets the tone of the gourmet restaurant (refereed to as
The Restaurant). Executive chef Hubert Des Marais' presentations are
always appealing and the restaurant has won accolades from the
food-press and offers contemporary cuisine incorporating local
ingredients and prepared in a healthful manner. Typical dishes include
plantain snaps with jumbo lump blue crab, grilled north Florida venison
with wild mushroom, honeybell orange and vegetable essence and a
signature yellowtail snapper with watermelon, annato and lemon thyme.
The wine list, including excellent half bottles and wines by the glass,
is beautifully chosen and fairly priced. The sommelier is knowledgeable
and personable. Desserts are not to be slighted and as prepared by
executive pastry chef Tom Worhach are delicious and a perfect complement
to chef Hubert's food.

Guests requesting one of the resorts 38 grand club rooms enjoy the
complimentary use of the Grand Club Lounge and breakfast, served for
club guests, is far from perfunctory. Service is personal and the
homemade cookies, breakfast rolls and jams are outstanding.

The Four Seasons Ocean Grand offers a complete health spa, a lovely
pool and all rooms have sliding doors that open onto a terrace
overlooking a private beach. One of the finest hotels in the United
States, the Four Seasons Ocean Grand provides comforts that meet the
expectations of the most discriminating clientele.

There are many so-called 5 star hotels. These usually refer to a rating
given by two well known American travel guides. Like their European
counterparts, many hotels in this category rest on past laurels.

We are happy to report that the Boca Resort and Club is a shining
example of what a true 5 star hotel is all about. Situated on 356 acres
in the center of Florida's gold coast, the original structure was built
in 1926 by Addison Mizner and reflects Spanish, Mediterranean, Moorish
and gothic influences. The "Cloister" is characterized by hidden
gardens, barrel tile roofs, archways, ornate columns, mosaics, fountains
and beamed ceilings.

The resort consists of the Cloister, the Tower, Boca Beach Club, the
Golf Villas, Boca Country Club, a convention center, two 18 hole golf
courses, 34 tennis courts, five pools, an indoor basketball court, four
indoor racquetball courts,  a 25 slip marina, boating facilities and a
half mile of private beach. The staff consists of 1,800 employes
representing some 60 nations. Service is attentive and caring (most
employees take the time to smile and be as helpful as possible).

There are 963 deluxe guest rooms, inclusive of 39 suites, 76 studio
rooms, 60 one bedroom golf villas and a concierge floor. The resort also
has a broad selection of restaurants and a complete range of amenities.

Don't fail to converse with the exotic birds (our favorite was a red guy
named Sammy), to stroll through the lovely grounds, laze away the day
by the pool and enjoy all the services and facilities at your disposal.
When you've had your fill, you'll enjoy returning to your room.

Our bedroom (in the Cloister) was an exercise in old-wold taste coupled
new-world conveniences, including minibar, color tv, separate dressing
room, room safe and voice mail. There is a $9 a day service charge added
to your bill. A great idea, since the excellent service should be
protected from less sensitive clients and clients protected from
insecurity and ambivalence. Our bellboy advised us of this and refused
his gratuity. Now that's integrity!

Most casual restaurants in a resort like the Boca are perfunctory. You
can imagine our surprise when we lunched (after 4 PM) at Chauncey's
Court's the casual and attractive non-stop restaurant. Conch fritters
were far better than any we had sampled on a recent trip to Nassau, and
stone crab were fresh as the sea and not waterlogged as they so often
are. The mustard sauce accompanying them was delicious as was a perky
Cuban sandwich and a designer key-lime tart. Service was pleasant,
efficient and friendly and there is also a serious wine list.

The Boca resort and club is justifiably famous and offers the ultimate
luxury experience on South Florida's gold coast.

The dining scene in Boca is improving and although casual seafood
restaurants and trendy newcomers are the rule, we suggest La Vielle
Maison for a special night out. Set in an elegant and beautifully
maintained villa, there are rooms on several floor which create an
intimate atmosphere. Food is generally well prepared. The executive chef
on our visit, Jacky Pluton, is a real pro and cooks with authority, style
and a relaxed-elegance. No showoff chef, Mr. Pluton's food tastes as good
as it looks and is deceptively simple. Desserts are outstanding as is a
nice selection of cheese served at room temperature. The wine list is
all that one would expect in such a refined setting. Don't miss the
local goat cheese from a small producer. It is available neat, flavored
with herbs or marinated. La Vielle Maison is Boca's most civilized dining
experience.

Many holidays can be embellished with one or more side trips or "add
on." When this is a foreign destination, a simple weekend can be
transformed into a festive occasion. Miami and South Florida offer the
ideal gateway to the Caribbean, Latin and South America.

We selected Nassau. With its colorful culture, beautiful beaches and more
than 600 Bahamian "family" islands, Nassau is only an hour away on a
thoroughly pleasant Paradise Airlines flight. The 50 seat Dash 7 is a plane
noted for safety and the one flight attendant in shorts and tea shirt was
young, fresh and accommodating. Competitively priced, the bonus of
landing at conveniently located paradise island airport, which is
smaller, faster and less intimidating then Nassau's main airport, is a
real plus.

Minutes away is the Paradise Island Resort and Casino. The 1,200 room
property is actually one of three distinctly different island
experiences, including the very European Ocean Club and less formal
Paradise Paradise beach resort.

We stayed in the plush Britannia Towers. The room was spacious and the
roomy beds with rattan headboards were comfortable. The airconditioning was
strong and color tv, mini bar as well as a soothing green motive
provided a home away from home that would be difficult to leave. Service
at the Britannia Towers is also excellent and the Vegas-style casino
coupled with a European flavored salon privŠ will keep those with a
penchant for gambling occupied. There is also a lovely pool and beach as
well a variety of restaurants ranging from steak and seafood to French
and Chinese, thus providing a self-contained resort experience.

We dined in the Bahamian Club. The decor was very clubby indeed with
comfortable leather banquettes and a refined wine list. The continental
cuisine was generally well done. Retro-dishes like steak Diane,
Chateaubriand and whole dove sole could be preceded by a split Caesar
Salad and followed by a dessert from the cart or fresh strawberries
Romanoff. There are a few Bahamian choices, if you're game and we
suggest the lobster and grouper Eleuthera style with pineapple in a light
cream sauce and served in the shell or a sassy conch chowder, which is
invariable delicious.

We enjoyed conch chowder at two other Nassau restaurants, The Riviera in the
beautifully maintained Radisson Cable Beach Casino and golf resort and
Nassau's justifiably acclaimed Graycliff.

The Radisson Cable Beach Hotel and Casino is may be large (700 rooms),
but true to the Radisson style, it is a class operation and features
several good restaurants.

The Riviera offers a thoroughly pleasant dining experience at realistic
prices. The well space tables, attentive service and tasty food can be
enjoyed by hotel guests with breakfast for as little as $35.00. A la
carte prices are also reasonable. Seafood creations are well executed and
even a simple grilled grouper will please. Dinner might go something
like this. Native conch cakes in a creamy cognac sauce or Caribbean
escargot with chorizo sausage and fried plantains for appetizers,
followed by a cold Bahamian conch ceviche, served in the shell with
Persian limes. Then, grilled swordfish with lemon caper butter or
blackened jumbo scallops with herbs and spices, seared on a hot iron
skillet with a red pepper coulis. Meat lovers will enjoy a veal chop or
prime Porterhouse. For dessert, peruse the Riviera dessert and cordial
display or go native with the guava duff and guava rum sauce, a sort of
Bahamian bread-pudding. The Riviera also offers a well selected wine
list with decent bottles starting at $18 -- that's a Nassau bargain Mon!

Graycliff is a unique dining experience. Set in a beautifully situated
colonial house, Graycliff is located on a quiet hill just behind the
hustle and bustle of Bay Street. One entering, one is take by the
grandeur. Graycliff is replete with antiques, a Baccarat chandelier
and exquisitely maintained by Enrico Garzaroli and his charming wife Anna
Marie. Graycliff provides European elegance coupled with a relaxed island
ambiance. There is a world-class wine cellar and one should take an
aperitif in the attractive sitting room, so as to provide time to give
it appropriate attention.

Beside that excellent conch chowder, a typical lunch might consist of an
excellent seafood coquille, Graycliff salad, fried grouper fingers with
tartar sauce, grilled salmon with coconut beurre blanc and a lovely grand
marnier souffle for dessert. Don't fail to enjoy a specialty cocktail
like a yellowbird or Bahama Mama. Graycliff offers Nassau's definitive
dining experience and is a member of the distinguished Relais and
Chateau group.

Getting There.

If you go to Miami, and can't bare the thought to coach, but your pocket
can't bear the buck of business or first, there's another option.

Ultra air, staffed with personnel from Eastern & Pan Am, not only gives
you a value-oriented fare, it also gives you freedom. that translates to
flexibility of purchase date as well as changes in itinerary.

Both ground crew and flight attendants couldn't be nicer and more
helpful. The 727 configuration and pitch of the seats produces a
comfortable seating experience. Hint: request rows 15 or 16 and you'll
have bulkhead seats with even more leg room. The food? Well it's no
worse than the name brand carriers. In fact, the fruit salad on a
breakfast flight was at a perfect stage of ripeness. The bagel that was
the remainder of your breakfast wouldn't shame the 2nd avenue deli, but
everything else was so extraordinary, I'd be pleased to bring my own
cheese, baguette and smoked salmon. The ultra air experience deserves
it.

On the ground.

Cabs in Miami and West Palm are plentiful and not too expensive. Boca
presents problems, which can be surmounted using a car service.

We found an excellent one, which can be reserved by contacting Ernie
Scott (407-483-0697) or Sam Viggiani (407-482-9674). There are several
cars and we found repeated pickups always prompt and dependable and the
drivers always courteous. Prices are lower than the unpredictable taxis,
ie. $35 to West Palm airport, rather than the $50 charged by taxi. Highly
recommended.

An American Place Waterside
The Jockey Club
11111 Biscayne Blvd., N. Miami
(305)893-3808

Follia
929 Washington Ave.
Miami Beach
(305)674-9299

Nick's Miami Beach
300 Alton Rd.
Miami Beach
(305)673-3444

Pacific Time
915 Lincoln Rd.
Miami, Fl.
(305)534-5979

Portobello Restaurant or Amnesia Cafe
136 Collins Ave.
Miami Beach
(305)531-5535

Hotel Cavalier
1320 Ocean Drive
1800-Outpost (305)534-2135

The Four Seasons Ocean Grand
280 South Ocean Blvd.
Palm Beach, Fl.
(407)582-2800

Boca Raton Resort and Club
501 E. Camino Real
Boca Raton, Fl.
(407-338-2950)

La Vieille Maison
770 E. Palmetto Park Rd.
Boca Raton, Fl.
(407)391-6701

Paradise Island Resort & Casino (Bahamian Club)
Reservations
901 N.E. 125th St
N. Miami
(800)722-7466

Radisson Cable Beach Casino & Golf Resort (Riviera Restaurant)
Box N, 4914
Nassau Bahamas
(800-333-3333)
Graycliff
West Hill St. (opposite Government House)
Nassau, Bahamas
(809)322-2796