Background: After a dozen years of military rule, Peru returned to democratic leadership in 1980 and is a constitutional republic 
. In recent years, bold reform programs and significant progress in curtailing guerrilla activity and drug trafficking have resulted in solid economic growth. 
  Located in Western South America and bordering the South Pacific Ocean, between Chile and Ecuador, Geographic coordinates: 10 00 S, 76 00 W., and slightly smaller than Alaska, Peru packs more archeological and ergonomic punch that any other two South American countries combined.
Internal air and helicopter service is safe and plentiful, if  somewhat unpredictable, especially during the rainy season. Rail service is improving, since Orient Express staked its claim to the system. At present only a few routes are recommended to tourists and night trains should be avoided, when possible.
Prices are low by international standards and a first rate lunch or dinner can be enjoyed in all but the tourist traps for $15 to $30 U.S. All prices are based on a 3 course meal for two, including 2 beers or cocktails. Hotels are excellent and offer all amenities American, Asian and European business and luxury travelers have grown to expect. Plan to spent $200 or less per double in Lima and about half that in Cusco and other smaller towns. While the official currency, the sole (pronounced SO-lay) is currently 3.5 to $1, Peru is “dollorized,” so exchange only small amounts of currency at banks, cambios or hotels, where rates are about the same and there is no commission or service fee. Never exchange money in the street, wear ostentatious jewelry  or watches and leave your passport and expensive cameras in the hotel safe (make a copy of your passport and carry that with you).
Drink only bottled water, and remember the adage: When it comes to food, peel it, cook it; boil it or forget it. Drugs are readily available at pharmacies (except for Cipro, which is not sold in Peru) and (consult your physician), it may be prudent to take Bismuth prophylacticly (8 pills a day, starting and ending 2 days before and after departure).
 Lima, the gateway city is serviced by a variety of airlines. We suggest looking at the JFK website and selecting an  airline that flies directly or non-stop if you live in or must transit NYC. It is also wise to query your travel agent or carrier about the configuration, equipment and pitch of seats, since American’s return flight leaves Lima at 12 Midnight and its Business Class seats (the best offered)  do not fully recline, have no headrests or individual controls and are not sleep-friendly. Service on our flight ranged from above average to excellent; food was edible and attractively served outbound; inedible and served in a single course on return.
Despite all the warnings, don’t be put off. We have traveled for more years than we want to remember and have never been robbed. We have gotten ill only once: In Israel of all places, where we relaxed our normal caution and drank the water and ate street food. 
ALTERNATIVE LIFE STYLES
Gay men and women should have no problems in Lima, if they exercise a degree of caution and are not tempted into unsafe places. The gay scene in Lima is mostly hidden from view but a very good source of information is the regularly updated website "Gay Guide to Lima, Peru" http://gaylimape.tripod.com/  written by Syberian, a resident Englishman. There is essential information for gay and lesbian travelers and descriptions of hotels, bars, discos, bath houses, beaches and much more. Syberian gives his e-mail address on the website for gay travelers needing a guide, additional information, or tour booking services.

COLONIAL LIMA  MAKES A COME BACK
 

The Gran Hotel Bolivar was South America's most fashionable hotel in the
late 50's. Orson Welles and Ernest Hemingway were regulars and Ava Gardner
shocked the waitstaff when she downed over a dozen "coliseums"  (Pisco
Sours) and danced on the bar until the wee hours. Today the Bolivar is a
faded dowager and downtown Lima is being restored and gentrified, while the
glass-palace of a Marriott overlooks the Pacific and the hottest complex in
town, in the residential area of Miroflores, is built into a cliff that
hosts the ubiquitous McDonald's  and a Hard Rock Café.

Only a backpacker or masochist would be foolhardy enough to arrive in South
America sans  hotel and tour guide. Fortunately, we had the best of both in
the company of Abercrombie & Kent, the undisputed champion of the
tour-world, and Sonesta, a collection of upscale hotels that reflect the
culture and history of their locations, with branches in Boston, Key
Biscayne, New Orleans, Anguilla, Aruba, Bermuda, Egypt, Peru, and Tuscany.
We had missed the A&K small-group tour by one day and were delighted with a
custom job they put together for us with excursions to Machu Picchu, The
Sacred Valley and Puno in lake Titicaca. Although we had  previously only
experienced two Sonestas, Key Biscayne and Anguilla, we found both the
domestic and Caribbean properties to be top of the line and the food and
beverage departments to be of the highest quality and since it is our
practice to feature only one or two hotels in each location, we were
pleasantly surprised to discover  that Sonesta had several properties in
Peru under their Posada del Inca label, as well as the elite El Olivar in
the magnificent San Isidro residential area. 
Our flight arrived about 10:30 pm on a balmy January night in Lima (it's
there summer) and we were greeted by the black and yellow A&K sign, which
was soon to become our salvation in this land of surprises.
Our transfer agent, Luis, was not only efficient, but capable of making
on-the-moment decisions and a skilled professional. 45 minutes and several
bottles of cold mineral water later we arrived at El Olivar. Luis not only
checked us in, but made certain that the hotel had arranged breakfast in our
room on our day of departure at the ungodly hour of 3 am (during rainy
season, A&K reserved the earliest flights for us, since these were the least
likely to get canceled). 
If the success of real estate is location; location; location, then Sonesta
has no competition in Lima.  Set in an enchanting garden of olive trees,
dating back several hundred years,  El  Olivar features 134 rooms (single,
double, executive rooms; senior suites and 1 presidential suite), all
equipped with individually controlled air conditioning and heating, There is
cable TV/VCR and Pay Per View, international phone access, mini-bar, in-room
safe, hairdryer, bathrobe, 220/110 power supply, and voice mail..
While no one can knock the rack rate of $260 for a standard room including a
lavish buffet breakfast, the executive room for just $30 more affords better
value with its two queen size beds and spaciousness. The Presidential suite
($700) features fax and dataport, Spanish Shower, sauna and Jacuzzi and work
desk with    speaker phone. 
     Special Needs include rooms equipped for the disabled and non-smoking
guests. The only restaurant we sampled was  La Bojita Cafe - A casual
ambiance open  from 6:15 AM to 12 PM
daily, specializing   in light fare,
executive lunch buffet and   afternoon
tea. It was excellent for breakfast and offered an omelet station, delicious
breads and delectable Peruvian tamales. Other restaurants in the hotel
included Vitrali Ristorante - A dramatic setting overlooking El Olivar Park,
and offering traditional Peruvian and Italian cuisine for lunch and dinner,
as well as a deluxe Ichi Ban Japanese Gourmet - Traditional Japanese decor
with a peaceful waterfall offering      fresh sushi and a variety of
Japanese specialties. We loved the  Alexis Cocktail Lounge - which afforded
a relaxing, comfortable atmosphere with nightly piano bar entertainment and
a selection of  beverages and cocktails, including the best Pisco sours in
Lima. Room Service is Available 24 hours daily. Other amenities included
Concierge, Currency exchange, 24-hour valet/laundry, Local transportation
and, babysitting. An outdoor
pool and sun deck are located on the hotel roof, and open seasonally. The
hotel's Fitness Center is open daily from 6 AM to 10 PM. Exercise equipment
includes treadmills, bicycles, step machines, and free weights. The Center
also offers a personal trainer, Jacuzzi, sauna, Spanish shower, locker room
and massage. The Business Center is open from 9 AM to 5 PM Monday through
Saturday with personalized assistance. The center is equipped with
computers, printers, copier, fax and free Internet access. Cellular phones
are available for rent. Full-time professional staff can provide
complimentary services such as translation and typing. Complimentary
coffee/tea service, "New York Times" Fax and local business papers are also
provided.
 

Day One

The telephone rang at 9 am, announcing our A&K guide, Sylvia had arrived.
Enthusiastic, charming and full of information, she escorted us on a
comprehensive city tour which included  a stroll through old Lima, visits to
several  beautiful churches containing outstanding examples of Baroque,
Rococo and Neo-Classic architecture and such customized features as visits
to the most important tourists restaurants in the city, 
The closest approximation of our tour would have been the "Heritage of the
Incas" tour, limited to just 18 people and costing $1,900 per person, plus
internal air fare, including hotels and meals, where indicated. Our
customized version would carry a surcharge and would have been as follows:

Day 1: Lima, Peru 
Arrival in Lima is late in the evening; you are met and transferred to your
hotel, just outside the city in the fashionable suburb of San Isidro. 

Day 2: Lima 
Your morning is at leisure until this afternoon's tour explores colonial and
modern Lima, including a visit to the fascinating Gold Museum. 

Day 3: Lima  Cosec 
Transfer to the airport this morning for a flight to Cusco. Today's city
tour includes the great fortress of Sacsayhuaman and the sacred Tambomachay
Baths. 

Day 4: Cusco 
Further afield, you explore the "Sacred Valley of the Incas" with a stop at
the massive Ollantaytambo Fortress, a huge complex constructed of
rose-colored granite. 

Day 5: Cusco  Machu Picchu 
An early start as you board the autorailcar bound for Machu Picchu. Your
late morning arrival gives you time to begin your explorations of this
mysterious Inca citadel. 

Day 6: Machu Picchu  Cusco 
The prospect of a walk through Machu Picchu at sunrise inspires early
risers. After breakfast continue your own explorations in this "Lost City,"
then return via autorailcar to Cusco. 

Day 7: Cusco  Lima 
Fly to Lima, where your afternoon is at leisure. 
 
 

Versus our private tour itinerary:
 
 

January 24
Arrive in Lima, meet and transfer to your hotel.
January 25
Morning city tour of Lima. Afternoon free. 
January 26
Early morning transfer to the airport of Lima for your flight to Cusco.
Arrive in Cusco, assistance at the airport and continue by private
vehicle/guide to
Urubamba, visiting Pisac. Lunch included at local restaurant. Afternoon
visit Ollantaytambo fortress.
(lunch)
January 27
Transfer to Ollanta train station (by Sonesta Posada del Inca hotel). Train
to Machu Picchu, guided tour. Lunch. Afternoon by helicopter back to Cusco.
Transfer to your hotel. (lunch)
January 28
Morning city tour of Cusco, including the nearby ruins of Sacsayhuaman,
Kenko, Puca Pucara and Tambomachay. Afternoon at leisure. 
January 29
Transfer to train station. By train to Puno. Arrive in Puno and transfer to
your hotel.
January 30
Full day excursion on Lake Titicaca, visiting the Uros floating island and
Taquile island, lunch.(lunch)
January 31 
Transfer to the airport of Juliaca, for flight to Lima, visiting the
Sillustani ruins on the way. Arrive in Lima assistance at the airport to
connect with your intl flight. 

air fare                           $136.00 per person
helicopter                      $100.00 per person

There are no mandatory health requirements for the Peru, however:

 ·         Ensure Tetanus and Polio boosters are up to date.

·         Hepatitis A is usually advised.

·         Typhoid, Tuberculosis, Hepatitis B, Rabies  and Diphtheria are
sometimes advised. 

·         Malaria. Precautions are essential in outlying rural areas all
year round.  Risk is minimal west of the Andes. Avoid mosquito bites in the
jungle by covering up with clothing such as long sleeves and long trousers,
especially after sunset, using insect repellents on exposed skin and, when
necessary sleeping under a mosquito net.  .

·         Yellow Fever. Vaccination certificate is required for travellers
over 6 months old if arriving from infected areas.  Certificate is also
required if visiting jungle areas 

·         Cholera.  Cases of cholera were reported in 1996, and precautions
should be considered.  Up to date advice should be sought before deciding
whether these precautions should include vaccination, as medical opinion is
divided over its effectiveness.  You should consult your doctor or Travel
Clinic for the best balance of medication.

Yellow fever vaccination is mandatory in case you are visiting the jungle /
rainforest area, mallaria is recommended also if you are visiting these
area. 

LIMA ON YOUR OWN
 TIPS, TAXIS, DINING AND SHOPPING

Lima was founded by Francisco Pizarro on January 18, 1535. Near a valley (the river Rimac) formed by beautiful forests and a few miles from the Pacific Ocean, it was an unequal and strategically place in that moment to be the Spanish colony center. Its location and wealth attracted numerous merchants and pirates that attacked and robbed Lima during the 16th and 17th centuries.
 The Plaza Mayor (Main Square) was the scenery for the Independence Declaration                              on July 28, 1821 and it marked the                               beginning of the end of the Spanish                               colonial rule in Peru and South America.
It is also the landmark and central point of all the area known as "Derma de Pizarro" (Piazza’s Square), which has been classified as a "Cultural Heritage of Humankind" since 1992. As Lima is located in the central coast of Peru, it begun to suffer an accelerated                              growing due to its activities                               concentration (centralism). Migration from highlands and jungle became massive since the 50's. People went down to the Coast in search of living opportunities. Then, a poverty belt was formed around the old city and with the years they became "microcities". Now, the population is more than 8 million.
     Compared to other South American capital cities, Lima has an stable and humid weather. In summer (Dec-Mar), sun is strong, clear sky and an average temperature of 26oC. The rest of the year, the sky becomes gray, drizzle but never rain and a winter of 12oC in average (Jun-Sep). From September, the weather gets warmer and mild. In summer, limeños escape to the southern beaches (20 to 50km). In autumn and winter, people goes in search of sun to the countrysides of Chosica, Canta and Cieneguilla (in the valleys of rivers Rimac, Chill›n and Lur­n respectively), 30 to 60 km east of Lima, near the Andes slopes.

The first destination for the travellers to Peru is Lima, its  capital city and center of South America during the colonial times when it was called the City of Kings. Here you will discover its friendly and lively people, rich culture and surprisingly good  food. Lima is a metropolis of changes, place of contrasts and show case of all      Peru. Once called the Garden City, Lima is a city to love or hate, where you will find space and time for doing everything. Being a      never-sleeping metropolis, its nightlife is full of fun and joy, and  as choices are wide, contact with nature is possible at one or two
     hours of distance!

With more than 50 museums in the city, the best ones in Peru are located           here. From public to private and from general to specialized museums, visiting them can be a good experience to know the different processes in topics like history, archaeology,           anthropology, nature, culture, technology, art, religion, costumes, collections and crime. Although it is difficult to  visit the majority of them in few days, we recommend you to visit the Museo de la Naci›n, Museo Nacional de Anthropology,  Arqueolog­a e Historia, Museo de Oro, Museo Larco Herrera and Museo Amano. 
As every city in Peru, the Plazas (squares) are the main and central point. Spaniards established in each city a main square (Plaza de Armas) surrounded by a church and the local government buildings. In the case of Lima, the Plaza Mayor (formerly called "Plaza de Armas") was the old heart of Lima and its foundation place. The only original parts of it           are the central old bronze fountain built in 1650 and the  building (Casa del Oidor) in the corner of the Government Palace and the Archbishop's Palace.
The Plaza Mayor is surrounded at the north by the Government  Palace, an impressive house where the President lives. A visit  to it is worthwhile. Try to watch the change of guard at 11:45 am everyday. At the east is located the Archbishop's Palace,  built in this century with a superb balcony, and we find the  Cathedral at the right hand of it. In front of it, there is           the Municipal Palace, with an arcade corridor in the ground   floor and two "suspicious" canyons in the balcony, recently  found in the square. Between the Municipalidad and the           Government Palace, there is a big statue of Francisco Pizarro  in his horse, a statue claimed to be offensive to the city.
Other important squares are: Plaza Italia (Barrios Altos), Plaza Bolivar (in front of Congress), Plaza Grau (near Museo de Arte), Plaza Bolognesi, Plaza Alfonso Ugarte and Plaza 2 de Mayo. Churches and Religious Buildings In central Lima there are more than 25 churches with historical value. 
          Nowadays used as the Foreign Affairs Ministry, the Palacio  Torre Tagle is one the best evidences of the colonial           mansion's architecture in Lima. Superb carved balconies  (Lima is also referred to as the city of balconies) land a courtyard surrounded by rooms and ironwork are its highlights.
          There are more than 30 recognized archeological sites inside the city and           another similar quantity in the surroundings. Outside the metropolitan area you will find the most important archaeological sites of Lima. By the east, in the Central Highway (Carretera Central), is Puruchuco (km7.5, district of Ate). This is a restored site which that housed to the area's chief. There is a site museum and a fee must be paid. By the km 12.5, there is an entrance (to the left) to Cajamarquilla zinc refinery. 5km inside you will reach the Cajamarquilla site, a pre-Inca citadel from War Culture, built with big adobe walls. It is said to be one of the most important adobe complexes in the coast. 
Parque de Las Leyendas is the traditional zoo of Lima. It is located in San Miguel, 24th block of Av. La Marina. There is a good sample of typical animal species of Peru.
 Markets & Shopping []
Olivar Park
For the best quality, stick with names like H. Stern and Ilaria, in the Sonesta (gemstones and jewelry). Trust your tour guide for other recommendations. If you purchase on the street or in markets, price (and quality) are cheaper and bargaining is de rigueur.
  The Gourmet's choice Lima is the best place for food in all over Peru. Apart from its great range of native dishes, you can find here almost food from everywhere in the world. Chinese, Japanese, Spanish, French, Italian, Arabian, Argentinean, North-American,
Brazilian, are some examples of the wide offer of restaurants in this capital city.
          But, since native food is our gastronomic destination, we cannot recommend you to eat the famous Ceviche here, there are no better samples in any other city (unless it is in the coast), but the risk of cholera and hepatitis outweigh the rewards. Other good delicious-but-potentially lethal options include Escabeche, Jalea de Pescado, Aji de gallina (chicken in a light cream sauce) and Coctail de          Camarones. If you like it hot, request “aji,” the ubiquitous chili sauce that can be a yellow or green puree or a course chop, reminiscent of Mexico’s “Pico de Gallo.”
On the other hand, "small" food, such as the papa rellena (stuffed potatoes), anticuchos (marinated beef hearts) and pancita are not only safe but delicious. In Cusco, sample the “New Andean” cuisine and such local specialties as alpaca and grilled whole hamster or guinea pig.  In case, you are homesick and want a hamburger, you may want to try Bembo's Burger Grill, a  Peruvian chain with lots of burgers and far better than Burger King or Mac Donald.
          For dessert, try the picarones, mazamorra morada, turr›n de Doña Pepa and arroz con leche. Besides the Pisco Sour, the "national" soft drink (strong competitor of Coke and top-of the-market), the yellowish Inca Kola is terrific. 
Restaurants 

The expensive  restaurants charge taxes and a 10% gratuity, while the cheap ones           only the IGV (18%). Check first. Leave 10% if no tip is added, up to 5% if  service is included.

The Ones To Avoid
n Costa Verde. Playa Barranquito, Costa Verde, Miraflores. Considered the best restaurant in Lima, this expensive tourist trap is included in the Guinness Book of Records for it buffet of nearly 700 dishes, mostly raw fish and salads  (neither of which you should sample). The absurd price of $60 per person (food only) and tacky decor is another turn off. 
n - La Rosa Nutica. Espig›n 4, 
Costa Verde, 

Miraflores. Built on a pier and looking like a giant birthday cake, layered in a series of gazebos, this is a fine place for a drink and a gussied up seafood dish or pasta, if atmosphere is what you crave. Otherwise, save you soles for the following choices.
With more Chinese restaurants than any other South American country, you should try one of these special hybrids. Don’t expect NY or San Francisco. - Chinatown Chifas. Near the Mercado Central is located the Chinatown (Jr. Ucayali and Jr. Paruro area), where you will find a good number of chifas (Peruvian-Chinese food), from cheap to expensive. 
¨ Royal, a chifa with grandiose  aspirations was highly recommend. It was worth the $60 tab for the glitz and Hollywood ambiance. The food was sub-par. In San Isidro, all cab drivers know it. 

THE BEST OF THE BEST 
¨ Café Ole. Always packed with business types and hip locals, the atmospheres is electric and the food is terrific. Great sangria; cheese stuffed won tons with guacamole sauce and fabulous sandwiches. Inexpensive and across the street from  Al Fresco. 
¨ Directly across from Café Ole, in a blue and white faux hacienda is a one month old Mexican restaurant, equal to the best in Mexico City, where a delicious three course meal can be consumed with Margaritas for about $20 for two. It’s name got lost in our maze of notes, but you can’t (and shouldn't miss it). 
¨

After 6 hours at the airport and multiple cancellations of flights from Lima to Cusco, we finally arrived at Cusco airport and were greeted with a smile by our transfer agent, driver and guide from Abercrombie and Kent. 
[]
Whisked to The Posada del Inca, superbly situated just off the main square, we relaxed in the comfortable lobby with what was to be our salvation from the inevitable threat of altitude -sickness -- steamy cups of coca tea. The Posada is totally captivating and offers 53 single, double and triple rooms and suites, all equipped with cable TV, heating (necessary in this quaint town of 300,000, with its chilly evenings)  international phone access, desks, and views of the city. 

[]
Posada del Inca Room. Cusco

Some guestrooms have traditional Spanish colonial balconies. Special Accommodation Needs.  for the disabled and non-smoking guests are available.[]

     Restaurants 

     The Inka Café and bar offers original and appetizing modern Andean   cuisine and International favorites in a casual and comfortable ambiance. We enjoyed the delicious homemade desserts fit for the most sophisticated palate. Grilled alpaca may sound intimidating, but it was the most tender meat we encountered on our visit (jut don’t look too closely at the adorable creatures with their long eyelashes and gentle disposition). The Café also offers variations of the Pisco sour. Try the one laced with coconut or one made with a molasses  base and cream. If you want to try the famous "ceviche" or "lomo saltado," here is the place (not to be confused with the touristy Inka Grill).
Posada del Inca Cusco

The restaurant is open from 5AM to 10PM. There is also a   small bar in the same room. Diners will enjoy a dramatic view of the imperial city and its   ancient ruins.

Since the Incas had no written language, don’t be surprised to find Inca spelled numerous ways, ranging from Inca to Inka and Inqa, while Cusco comes off as Cuszo and even Qusqo.
We spent the first night at the Posada del Inca in Yucay (pronounced (u-CAI) in the sacred valley. A full day tour preceded this.
Posada del Inca Yucay
[]
The Posada del Inca in Yucay offers two adjacent locations in the Sacred Valley: Yucay and    Yucay "Casona."[]
     Yucay  has 69 rooms (single, double, triple, quad and suites), all equipped with remote  control TV, heating, international phone access, in-room safe, desk, and views of courtyards   and gardens. 
Posada del Inca Puno
[]
     Yucay Casona has 39 newly renovated rooms (single, double and triple) all equipped with  individually controlled heating, international phone access and a beautiful view of the Sacred Valley and surrounding mountains.

[]
The Puno property (a 10 hour train ride from Cusco) offers 62 guestrooms featuring beautiful panoramic views of either Lake Titicaca or the  nearby mountains. All rooms are equipped with cable TV, access to national and      international calls, and safe deposit boxes in-room. The hotel offers single, double, and triple rooms. The excellent Inka Café restaurant and bar specialize in modern Andean  cuisine and International favorites in a casual and comfortable ambiance. There is also an attractive cocktail lounge next to the dining room. 

Abercrombie and Kent excelled in Cusco and their tours of Machu Picchu. Our guide, Sofia, was precise and caring and met even the challenge of a landslide our train encountered returning from M.P. with professional authority. []Their selection of restaurants was also excellent and the tours were based on our specific needs and input. The A&K kid glove service extended to our transfer back to Lima for our connecting international flight, which required us to check into the airport two to three hours in advance. To our delight, A&K picked up our bags in front of our room and delivered them to the airport and checked them in in advance, thus allowing us to get a couple hours of well needed shuteye. []

Often the first thing that comes to mind when Peru is mentioned is Machu Picchu, the great stone sanctuary built high in the Andes mountains more than 100 years before the arrival of Spanish conquistadors. Not to be overlooked, however, is the city of Cusco, a destination in its own right, not just an embarkation point for the trek by train to Machu Picchu. 
Cusco, in a fertile valley in the Andes mountains, 3,490 m (11,444 ft) above sea level and an hour by air from Lima, is the southern capital of the Inca empire. The presence not far from Cusco of Pikillacta, a pre-Inca city of the Wari culture, which existed from AD 600 to 1000, is an indication that this territory, like most of Peru, was the site of sophisticated civilizations long before the Incas appeared on the scene. Today Cusco is a city of terra-cotta roofs and cobblestone streets, where the blending of the Inca and Spanish cultures has emerged into a distinct local style. Also known as the archaeological capital of the Americas, Cusco reflects the image of a highly developed and intelligent ancient civilization. The city has existed for nine centuries, first as an Inca capital, then as the new settlement of the conquering colonial Spanish, and finally as home to the mestizo culture of today. []
Machu Picchu's allure alsolies in the exquisite architecture, as well and synergism of the Incas' massive stone structures and in the formidable backdrop of steep sugarloaf hills, with winding Urubamba River far below. Ever since American explorer Hiram Bingham "discovered" the city in 1911, there have been debates over Machu Picchu's original function. What is clear is that it was an Inca religious center and small city of about 200 homes and 1,000 residents. Agricultural terraces supplied the population's food needs. Strategically set, the city overlooked but could not be seen from the valley floor. Exactly when Machu Picchu was built is not known, but one theory suggests that its golden age was in the mid-15th century. The site's belated discovery has led some academics to conclude that the Incas abandoned Machu Picchu before the Spanish conquest. Whatever the reason, this "lost city of the Incas" was missed by the ravaging conquistadors and survived untouched until the beginning of the 19th century. 
 

[]
Inka Express
 Cusco and Machu Picchu are often sold as a three-day, two-night package, which is sufficient time to take in the major sights. Cusco’s downtown is compact, and the best way to get around is on foot. Cusco is the gateway to some of Peru's greatest historical areas and monuments, such as Sacsayhuaman, on a hill that overlooks the city, and the Sacred Valley, an Inca breadbasket for centuries, still marked with the footprints of its imperial past. The quickest way to get from Cusco to Machu Picchu by train is the autovagón (tourist train car), which leaves Cusco daily at 6 AM and arrives at Machu Picchu at 9:25; it then returns in the afternoon at 3:30 and arrives back at Cusco at 6:30. The first stop in the area, which has signs that say "Machupicchu," is actually Aguas Calientes. Disembark there for a bus that winds through dizzying heights and breathtaking scenery for the ½ hour journey to M.P. Alternately a helicopter makes the entire journey from Cusco in about 20 minutes. The train (run by Orient express) is old world and excellent ($35), but take only “Inka Class,” which includes upholstered seats, fine service and clothed tables, set with china and multiple snacks, including Pisco sours. 

[]Other sight to see in Cusco are the baroque cathedral is where the palace of the Inca Wirachocha is believed to have been. Construction began in 1550 and ended a century later. It is considered one of the most splendid Spanish colonial churches in the Americas. Within its high walls are some of the best examples of the Cusco School of painting (which added Andean motifs to its basically European style), including a painting of the Last Supper with a local specialty, cui (guinea pig), as the main dish. Other highlights include a massive, solid-silver altar and the enormous 1659 María Angola bell, the largest in South America, which hangs in one of the towers. The cedar choir has carved rows of saints, popes, and bishops, all in stunning detail down to their delicately articulated hands. Av. Santa Catalina Angosta, PHONE: no phone. COST: Admission fee. Mon.-Sat 10-11:30 and 2:30-5:30. 

The Temple of the Sun was built to honor the Tawantinsuyos' (the name of the Inca empire in the native tongue, Quecha) most important divinity and served as the central seat of government and the repository of the realm's gold treasure. Terraces that face it were once filled with life-size gold and silver statues of plants and animals. In the 16th century, above its looted ruins, the Spanish constructed the convent of Santo Domingo using stones from the temple. You can admire the mortarless masonry, earthquake-proof trapezoidal doorways, curved retaining wall, and exquisite carving that exemplify the Incas' artistic and engineering skills. Pampa del Castillo and Santo Domingo, PHONE: no phone. COST: Admission fee. Mon.-Sat. 8-5:30 and the MUSEO ARQUEOLÓGICO. Among the displays of pre-Inca and Inca objects is a collection of Wari art, turquoise figures from nearby Pikillatca. Corner of Ataúd and Córdoba de Tucumán, PHONE: 084/237380. COST: Admission fee. Weekdays 8-6, Sat. 8-2. 
By all means check out the PLAZOLETA DE SAN BLAS. The little square in San Blas (the bohemian area) is home to a simple adobe church that holds one of the jewels of colonial art .

Sacred Valley of the Incas 

The Sacred Valley of the Incas, along the Urubamba River, is traditionally held to begin at Pisac, about 30 km (18 mi) northeast of Cusco. []The valley "ends" 60 km (36 mi) northwest of Pisac at Ollantaytambo, where the cliffs that flank the river grow closer together, the valley narrows, and the agriculturally rich floodplain thins to a gorge as the Urubamba begins its abrupt descent toward the Amazon Basin. (Machu Picchu is farther downriver, among the cloud forests on the Andean slopes above the Amazon jungle.)  PISAC. The road from Cusco meets the valley at Pisac, with two parts: the colonial town, which holds a popular Sunday market, and the Inca ruins up on a mountain. From the market area you can rent a horse to ride up to the ruins, hike, or take a taxi up the winding but well-maintained road. 

Dining

Avoid the touristic restaurants and you will eat well (and inexpensively in Cusco.
Alpaca -- too pretty to eat.
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The absolute top choice is the remarkable CHEZ MAGGY 
Procuradores 365, Cusco, Peru
Phone: 084/234861
$5 to $15. Pizza, calzone, and hand made lasagna, cooked to order and fired in a clay oven are followed by delectable grilled lamb and seafood. Brave hearts can sample “cui,” a cross between guinea pig and hamster, served whole with eyes, ears, feet and teeth in tact. Seating is at long wooden communal tables and there are four branches.

By all means avoid the overrated 
PUCARA 
Plateros 309, next to Plaza de Armas, 
Phone: 084/222027. While attractive enough, service is indifferent and food is undistinguished. The ají de galina is heavy handed. The homemade truffles, on the other hand are perfect.

With more time one could do Lima and Cusco as part of Abercrombie and Kent’s  extended tours, which might include Chile or Ecuador. Sounds good to us. But hey: What exotic destination doesn’t. Until next time, Travel well and travel wise from the Preisers. 
All questions can be e-mailed to travel-pro@usa.net.
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