Timely Wise Travel Woes - Jerry & Nancy Preiser - Punch In International Syndicate UNDERRATED PHILLY, AMERICA'S LYONS. With more sights, charm and historical background than any two other American cities combined, Philadelphia also supports one of the finest French restaurant in the United States, at least two of America's foremost Italian restaurants, and an abundant medley of dining possibilities, ranging from small ethnic establishments to trendy examples of the new-american- cuisine. Like Lyons, France's gastronomic capitol, Philly offers a viable base, from which one can explore and sample the colors and cultures of nearby New York, Baltimore and Washington. Our visitors from abroad will find Philadelphians pleasant, sophisticated and friendly, and as restaurant goers, Philadelphians are demanding, and set the high standards, of which we are the fortunate recipients. As a restaurant town, Philadelphia must rate high marks on the list of any serious "foodie". The abundant choices Philadelphia offers in fine restaurants, is alas not equaled in hotels. Fear not, your creature comforts will be satisfied, and if you demand a world class establishment, there are several choices. The graceful FOUR SEASONS, Logan Square (215) 963-1500. Managed by the Canadian Company, whose name is synonymous with excellence, you won't be disappointed in the Philadelphia disciple. Taste, fine service and the sensational "Seasons Room" (Actually a mini-suite) that is a virtual steal by European standards. Marvelous facilities, including a heated indoor pool and health spa; the fashionable FOUNTAIN restaurant; and a charming cafe. Very Upscale; Very well run, and one of America's finest hotels. The Ritz Carlton Philadelphia, 17th and Chestnut Sts at Liberty Place (215) 563-1600 is another outstanding example of this groups excellence and is highly recommended as are the Hotel Atop the Bellevue 1415 Chancellor Court, (215) 893-1776; The Rittenhouse, 210 Rittenhouse Squar, (215) 546-9000; the Sheraton Society Hill, 1 Dock Street - (215) 238-6000; teh Wyndham Franklin Plaza, 2 Franklin Plaza - (215) 448-2000 and the Hilton and Towers, Broad Street at Locust - (215) 893-1600. If money is no object, the excellent and reliable DAV EL Chauffeured Limousine Service (215 334-7900) offers the ultimate in luxury, with sleek, stretch models, fully equipped with TV and bar. The drivers are courteous, and in a recent series of pick ups and calls, they were always on time (usually 15 minutes early) and offered every amenity and convenience on would expect, from a first class operation. They would also be an excellent choice for excursions to Atlantic City, Washington and Baltimore. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! Before taking in the multitude of historical sights and the suburbs, don't miss the fascinating BOURSE, with it's complex of elegant shops and restaurants, as well as the beautifully restored SOCIETY HILL AREA and Waterfront. Philadelphia shopping offers great variety with prices that are roughly 20% below comparable establishments in New York or Washington, and with the money you'll save, you can indulge in what must be the "ultimate-splurge"; the miraculous Le Bec-Fin. Le Bec-Fin 1523 Walnut Street, (215) 567-1000, was featured by us some years ago in it's original location on our television show. In those days, the restaurant madness was just beginning in the U.S. and Philadelphia's Bec-Fin and the Frog were the basic trend setters at opposite ends of the spectrum. We captioned our show, "NEW YORK'S BEST FRENCH RESTAURANT IS IN PHILADELPHIA!" Some years later, the caption still works, but now, in it's new and glamorous home, Le Bec-Fin is also perhaps the finest French Restaurant in the United States. With well spaced tables, flattering lighting, crystal chandeliers, Cristofile silver, Limoges China, Cristal d'Arques, and an ambiance more typical of a genuine Parisian temple of Haute Gastronomy, than an American simulation, only a genius or a fool would dare chance, what might result in the subsequent disappointment of mere food competing with such extravagant opulence. Well I can assure you that chef-owner George Perrier is no fool. A dedicated professional and perfectionist, Mr. Perrier is a fanatic, when it comes to quality, and in his restaurant, only the best will do. The best means, not only integrity and selection (American Foie Gras, for example, which can be purchased raw and truly fresh, as opposed to the imported version, which must be brought in "Min-cuis" (partially cooked), but also the commitment to have only two seatings for dinner, and to allow enough time for the excellent captains to explain every dish on the menu. A fine array of cheese, served properly at room temperature, and other luxury items. To recommend dishes at Le Bec-fin is unnecessary, since the line of demarcation ranges from marvelous to exceptionally marvelous. Vegetables and fish are timed to the second, and in a multi course extravaganza, not one dish disappointed. Being from Lyons, it is expected that Mr. Perrier would feature a Lyonnaise Dessert Carte, and a plethora of homemade ice creams and sorbets, all of which might seduce even the most dedicated anorexic into an orgy of sugar madness. An assortment of chocolate desserts, featuring a flourless cake and terrine, would fulfill any chocoholics's deepest fantasy, and the cold souffles, sorbets and floating island were flawless. The wine list is in keeping with such a grand lux establishment, and features great bottles, from great years, at prices that are commensurate with such company. We New Yorkers, as well you fortunate Philadelphians can partake of the penultimate experience, whenever the whim hits us (if reservations are available) at George Perrier's masterpiece. At the other end of the Liberty Bell, lies one of America's most personal and authentic restaurants. Ranking with such greats, as New Orleans's Paul Prudhomme and San Francisco's Alice Waters, the captivating and unassuming chef, Jack H.McDavid has done the impossible. He has taken a solid professional foundation of classical cooking (acquired at Le Bec-Fin) and combined it with the homey Americana upbringing of his mother's kitchen (David still claims his mama makes the world's best biscuits) and evolved a cuisine that is at once honest, personal and sublime. Housed in an old red brick fire house is Jack's Firehouse, 2130 Fairmount Avenue, (215) 232-9000. Dishes like Bison with Jack Daniels sauce, venison, great desserts and country music make Jack's Firehouse special. If the WHITE DOG CAFE 3420 Sansom Street (215) 386-9224, were to open in New York, Washington or San Francisco, it would be "hokey", "cutesy", or "precious". In the edifice that once housed the queen of metaphysics, Madame Helena P. Blavatsky, with its dog motif (Madame B. healed herself from a leg infection, and a potential amputation, by having a white dog sleep across her leg at night) it is a gem, and typifies the ingenuous quality that seems to make these restaurants "work" in Philly. Enchanting or enchanted (depending on how you look at it) the service is friendly and efficient, the food, especially soups, simple grilled or sauteed dishes, rolls and desserts are terrific, and the libations are both generous and unusual. An excellent wine list, with interesting and well priced wines-by-the-glass (perhaps Philadelphia's most reasonable and well chosen), completes a delightful experience. Remembered fondly were a delicious yellow pea soup, with fresh herbs and smoked chicken, simple lamb chops on marvelous wild rice, fabulous scones and lovely (fresh dill this day) herbal muffins, a fascinating tangerine sorbet, and a decadent Milk Chocolate Cream pie, with hazelnut nougat, in a chocolate cookie crust. Recent wine specials have included top makers like Cline Angel Pine Ridge; Rutherford and Robert Pecota. Coffee and Ice Cream drinks (hard), such as Man's Best Friend, The Hand That Feeds You, and That Darn Cat are also available. Owner, Judy Wicks seems to be a socially attuned human being, in addition to being a professional restaurateur. The clientele, by the way is an interesting mix of university intellectuals and knowledgeable food lovers. The prices are value oriented as well. A personal favorite! MEIJI-EN, Pier 19 North, Delaware Avenue at Callowill St. (215) 592-7100, should appeal to New Yorkers. Impossible to find, jam packed, frenetic service, delicious food and an elegant decor and spaciousness that belies its bargain prices. After your impeccably made cocktail, icy and excellent Japanese beer is the beverage of choice, despite the well priced wine list. If you insist on wine, the house Sparkling wine (by the glass), a Sterling Chardonnay and a Chateau Simard, are your best bets. Ethereal steamed dumplings, parchment-crisp soft shelled crab and a Japanese deep fried Egg roll (nothing like Chinese) are the best starters, but excellent Tempura, Sushi and Sashimi are also available. The food, a little Japanese, a little American, a little Pan-Asian, is fresh, tasty and inventive. In addition to the obligatory Yakitori, Sukiyaki and Shabu Shabu, a house special Teppanyaki, consisting of shrimps, salmon, lobster and scallops, is the signature dish. Leave room for the Philadelphia "Sticky Bun" Ice Cream Pie. Delicious! We find most Italian food in the States, anglified and not to our taste, and with the exception of some of New York's "New Italian" hot-spots. You can imagine our chagrin, when we stepped into the intimate and romantic Monte Carlo Living Room, 2nd. and South Street (215) 925-2220, and discovered extraordinary and authentic cuisine. Having just returned, from reviewing restaurants in Monaco can assure you that Monaco's loss is Philadelphia's gain. From remarkable quickly sauteed Fresh Foie Gras to impeccable and inventive pastas (especially a succulent black Tagliolini, tossed with seafood, and an honest Gnocchi in tomato sauce) the food is without exception excellent. The fish is rolled to the table on a cart (raw), for the diner's deliberation. A Mediterranean Spigola or Sea Bass, was moist, fresh and delicious, as was a venison special, in Port wine sauce. The wine list, by the way, is equal to the food, and a Masi Amarone 1981 was a superb example of that excellent wine (I would suggest calling the restaurant, and having it opened two hours before arrival, if you can establish rapport). The service, from the gracious reception to the captains, waiters and bus boys was polished and benevolent. A dessert table displays tempting choices, and well made, foamy expresso is a perfect finish to a meal that displays the best qualities of Italy and the wonderland that is Monaco, with it's not- quite-Italian-not-quite-French Cuisine. DI LULLO CENTRO, 1407 Locust Street (215) 546-2000, is the epitome of a grand lux Italian Restaurant, and having reviewed the top restaurants in Italy recently, we can assure you that the food is equal to the best of Milan, Florence or Rome. The serviced is professional. friendly and efficient, and the room is spacious, well lit and comfortable. A first course of Calamaretti Fritti, was tender, parchment crisp and delicious, as was the heady Pomodoro Sauce that accompanied. A Rissoto, with eggplant and tomatoes was properly soupy, with "bitey" rice, and was a superb example, as was a lovely pasta special in a seafood cream sauce, with fresh oregano. A simply sauteed Red Snapper, with a Salsa Cruda was enchanting in its contrasting textures, and a Veal Chop was expertly grilled, and was beautifully seasoned with its dusting of herbal olive oil. The Melanzane (a layered eggplant dish) that accompanied it was delicious, as was the bread. An exceptional wine list, with good Sparkling wines (a Ferrari 83) by-the-glass, and the magnificent Antinori Tignanello 1982 (one of Italy's treasures, and equal to a Grand Crus Bordeaux) was well priced. A Fiorgardare 1982 Allegrini, dessert wine is a good choice to counter the mouth watering desserts. Don't miss the best Gelati ever encountered in America, a creamy mound of (this day it was banana-hazelnut) custard, with or without Kahlua, Grappa or Whiskey. An extraordinary experience, and about half the price of a similar meal in Milano. OTHER RESTAURANTS TO SEEK OUT AND ENJOY This section originally began with a review of one of Philadelphia's most famous restaurants, Deja Vu (well it's still listed in most big-time guide books, which makes a case for geting your information from , radio, newpapers, monthlys like "Cab" or Punch In International's fax and computerized daily information service (end of commercial) But all kiding aside, in this world of ever-changing hotels, restaurants and values, you need continually updated resourses. Even then prices change, wines may no longer be available in the years indicated and so fourth ... so when in doubt, check. For historical realson and a bit of nostalgia follows our perceptions of Deja Vu on our last vist, and some alternate suggestions for replacement. "In the style of London's Parke's, Toronto's Troy's, and New York's Cafe Nicholson and Box Tree, DEJA VU, 1609 Pine St. (215) 546-1190, is studied, eccentric, and deliciously offbeat. With it's International Clientele, fading old world elegance and theatricalized service, Deja Vu offers a fun evening. The Fresh Sevruga Caviar is worth the $20.00 supplement, beautifully presented, and hands down, the best Hors d'Oeuvre choice. While main courses are the stars of the menu, stick with the simplest seafood preparations, and you won't be disappointed. Vegetables are also prepared properly al dente. An excellent wine list features the great names, and some good values as well. A Pol Roger Champagne Rose, is a delight, with its cassis and berry bouquet, and there are abundant choices in both the red and white wine categories, at realistic (for Philadelphia) prices. Fine coffee is brewed table side, and a Cognac or Liqueur will present the final touch to one of Philadelphia's most romantic restaurants. Two other levels are available for private parties, and an intimate dinner for four to six very close friends sounds like an intriguing idea, in the actual wine cellar. Evian water is poured in lieu of the standard, non sponsored brand, and don't forget to let your eyes stray from your companion long enough to take in the Hand-Painted ceiling and walls." The following list is suggested: Deux CheminŠes - 1221 Locust St., (215)790-0200; Fountain (in the Four Seasons Hotel) (215)963-1500; and The Garden, 1617 Spruce St. (215)546-4415. What about Bookbinders? Yea ... that's what I've always wanted to know. What about Bookbinders! That's Underrated Phili ... so forget the clichŠs. W.C. Field's line has never been more dated. Philadelphia is a city that makes America one of the world's most interesting travel destinations.