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J. Walman Reviews

Firebird

365 West 46th St.

New York

N.Y.

VENUE:MidTown

RATING:A+

PRICE:M

CUISINE:Russian

Telephone:212-586-0244 Fax: 957-2983

Date: 01/10/97 Day: Friday

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REVIEW

Copyright 1996 by Punch In International Syndicate.

Hi. I'm J. Walman with the restaurant report. Firebird occupies two brownstones and is carfully renovated to look like a St. Petersburg mansion of 1912, the height of the cultural renaissance in Russia, this restaurant has a two story atrium, magnificant chandeliers, and eight intimate rooms, each decorated in its own distinctive color scheme (the gold room downstairs, the blue and ball room up are currently functional). There are paintings of the preeminent Russian artist Vladamir Krivsky, wall hangs, objets d'art, period antiques and Russian books from owners Baroness Irina von der Launitz's ( grandaughter of Vladimir, mayor of St. Petersburg until his assination in 1907) personal collection. China is designed by Krivsky and waitstaff apparel by Oleg Cassini. Gift items are for sale (Faberge eggs, jewelry, china and boxes). Start with one of 10 icy vodkas, served in tall glasses with caviar and blini, the flat buckwheat pancake or one or more of the daily zakuska, Russian appetizers. I liked full sour pickles with sour cream and honey, a wonderful Georgian chicken salad (satsivi) with walnuts and spices and hot smoked, sliced sturgeon. Ukrainian borscht is superb with smoked pork loin, braised duck, beef brisket and house-made pirojok. (I also loved a warm cheese-dumpling). Also not-to-be-missed, is Karsky shashlik or grilled, marinated lamb loin with fruit and almond pilaf and red pepper salad. Service is some of the most subtle and attentive in town and desserts are masterful, from a double chocolate cake with almond milk and sour cream ice cream and its cocoa-powder design of the Kremlin on the plate to assorted Russian cookies, accompanied by glasses of hot tea and cherry preserves at Firebird, 365 W. 46th St. That's A PLus on my Restaurant Report Card. I'm J. Walman and all my reviews are available on the "Internet" through the Internet Exchange at (212)935-3322, that's 935-3322 and mention Punch In International Syndicate.

Daily specials: Sun. Pelmeni Siberian, Moldavian fish stew; basturma (grilled marinated beef); roast suckling pig; Armenian yogurt spiced lamb; roast goose, tart cherry compote; chicken Kiev, garlic roasted potatoes (Sat.).

Craig Rodenhiser, managing dir. of Holt Corp. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

MORE KEYS: PRICE:M WHEELCHAIR:Y SUNDAY:Y MUSIC:Y CHARGE:AE, DC, MC, V. LATE?:N BRUNCH:N PARTIES:Y ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

TYPICAL DISHES:

Smoked cod and potato casserole; marinated wild and domestic mushroms; roasted eggplant caviar; pickled herring; Moldavian assorted peppers; lobio (spicy Georgian red beans & walnuts); boriani (savory caucasian spinach with yougurt & spices); grilled sturgeon, purslane, sav ory, lovage & mustard; Arm enian yogurt-spiced lamb; charlotte Russe; medovnic k (honey cake),cherry comp

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WINES:20 White:$15-$195. 29 Red: $16-$235. 16 Sparkling: $45-$250.

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In A Nutshell:An elegant 6,000 square foot restaurant only 1 minute and 47 seconds from Lincoln Center and within walking distance of B'Way theaters seats 200. ------------------------------------------------------------------------

DATA:Appetizers:$5.95-$11.95. Caviar:$18-$54. Entrees:$18.75-$23.50. Vegetables & Condiments:$4-$4.75. Desserts:$7. Cholice of any 5 Zakuska & buckwheat blini: $19.50. (5 to 7 pm). 4 zakuska: $11.75. 6 wines by the glass:$5.25-$6. 10 vodka:$6.50-$8.

Dress:Casual. Reservations req. Hours of operation: Lunch & Dinner 7 days a week. Chef: Union Sq. Brian Goode Sous Chef: Pastry Chef: Jude Quintiere Maitre d'Hotel Linda Wiley Nomura Contacts:Wife Irina von der Launitz Owner J. William Holt PR:212-988-5174 Nicole Satescu Fern Berman

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